Fuel Pump

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I've been quoted 4hrs labour fitting the pump. Is that a bit OTT ?
BTW JGS got back to me. All seems well but mentioned it's an hours work
 
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I've been quoted 4hrs labour fitting the pump. Is that a bit OTT ?
BTW JGS got back to me. All seems well but mentioned it's an hours work
Why do garages continue to take the p..s. Overcharging for an easy 1 hour Diy job is criminal.
If you must get it fitted, find another garage.
 
Snap , if he was closer, I would do it for him as well.
There is thread where i put several pics on of the filter replacement. Pump is part of same sub assembly.
Have a look and see if you want to attempt it.
Do you have any tools???
 
I've been quoted 4hrs labour fitting the pump. Is that a bit OTT ?
BTW JGS got back to me. All seems well but mentioned it's an hours work
VVOTT if you ask me.
Tools required: Jack, stand, 22mm socket for wheel, WD40, screwdrivers, 10mm socket and you can drop the little cradle and take it to your bench. Pump and filter can then be swapped without tools - you may find it's all a bit seized in there but nothing a little WD40 and some cursing won't sort.

If you really want I can dig out the RAVE page dealing with this and post it for you. Seriously, Dwalsh1, this is not a hard job and we'll all help you do it. 4 hours?! Stuff 'em.
 
I suppose a garage that hasn't done one before could reasonably charge for 2 hours labour. 4 is milking it.

The hardest thing usually is getting the filter out of its sleeve. Squirt it with a load of plus gas and let it soak does the trick. All the fuel pipes are quick release.
Sure there's a thread on here with pics
 
Update:- I forgot I had a fuel filter fitted last July and the same garage charged me an hours labour. Had I remembered I would of mentioned it to the mechanic quoting me 4 hours on the phone when it took him 1 hour to get to the same place. Anyway I rang them this morning and mentioned this and the guy thought he was changing a pump in the engine quoting me 4 hours from some info on his pc. I'm now getting charged 1 hours labour. Thanks gentlemen for all your input and also thanks for offering to come round and fit it. Thanks guineafowl21 also. Hopefully will have it fitted early next week. PS I would of attempted it had it been 4 hours work.
 
first crack the drivers rear wheel nuts and then jack up the drivers side rear wheel. Secure on an axle stand. Remove rear wheel.
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look underneath and you will see a plastic cover with with a water drain screw in it.
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remove the two locating plastic clips which secure wheelarch plastic guard
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behind that there is a little plastic guard that you remove
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Now you need to unbolt the brackets, one bolts in the chassis rail which should come undone, on mine you can see in the photo above (maiddle bottom, yes that was once a bolt) arusty bolt I had to grind off later, but temoving the plastic covers means you can get to the two bolts that go into the chassis, in the photo one is already out and the other nearly out.
Bolt in chassis in photo below.
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once bolts are removed the assembly will drop down.
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As said before everything's simple unclip and remove assembly.
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As others have said plenty of oil as they will be stuck, I personally use 3 in 1 or plusgas. put planty on and go have dinner or a long brew before even attempting to pull things apart.
my advise is take loads of photos, get some tippex or white paint or marker pens to put marks on things before you unplug if you are unsure.

photos of the bracket I had to grind apart so I could put a new bolts in
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and cleaned up a bit ready to go back on
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Assembly as they say is opposite of removal.
 
its a 54 plate, done 75k.
As an engineer who has done loads of cars over the years, its sad to say the quality of some of the parts on Freelanders is shocking when you consider the purchase price. But I still Love it. Will be paintin loads of bits wit POR15 paint when summer comes.
 
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