Fuel pump timing help needed

First of all mine is an automatic and I brought the locking tools from eBay for a 300tdi.

I first took off the air con belt adjuster to get to the pump front.

Then I turned the crank to see where the pin fitted.

It seemed to fit best around 12 o'clock but seemed to have some slack, could still move the crank back and forth a bit and the pin still fitted so I moved it to about the right point.

Then I took off the larger bolt on the flywheel inspection plate and loosened the 10mm bolt to let the plate swing out the way.

The tool would not go in so with the spanner wiggled around the crank but no joy. Moved the flywheel back to feel for the hole on the flywheel but when I tested the tool in it there was not any depth, felt more like a notch or dimple than a hole.

I moved the flywheel more (clockwise as you look from front of truck) and found more divits. Then about 4th one the tool went in. But dispite trying could not get it to fit as it should through large threaded hole.

I moved the flywheel back and tried other way till I found another hole that was a hole. This time I got the tool in with a bit of fiddling and locked the flywheel.

The went to pump and found the hole had moved to 11 o'clock possition and the tool did not fit.

My question is does this sound like I have the correct hole on the flywheel, is there more than one? And does this sound like the belt has jumped or is it just general high milage wear, it has 225000 on the clock.

It has never been rapid but seemed ok as it is my first 300tdi, but has started to smoke badly lately.

I will wait for some help before I proceed.

Thanks.

to be sure of right hole as there can be several ,remove front crank pulley and front cover you will see a mark on lower crank pulley and rear cover these marks align with key in crank at 12 oclock then check cam marks about 8 oclock then pump pin ,you could then mark with piant rear flywheel hole ,pump pin does have some movement and will usualy run better if you hold 22mm/7/8 spanner on pump nut clockwise against pin with 3 x pulley bolts slack then tighten this makes sure engine isnt retarded,you should really check with cover off to check belt and cam ,better done with rad out

Hi, My 95 disco 300 tdi Auto, Only has one slot, no holes or divits, in flywheel as viewed from backplate of engine, And is approx 5.8mm wide, Hope some of this helps.
Clive.

Thanks for the replies.

I took out the flywheel locking pin after marking out the position of the pulleys with paint.

Then tried the pin in the pump again as I turned the crank nut.

It only moved a bit when the pin went in properly. I could not have found the correct hole in the pump before.

The paint had moved about 5pm so not much, but I followed the Haynes manual and set the timing.

It seems to run a bit smoother but no change to the smoking and does not seem to be any more powerful.

The search for the cause of the blue smoke goes on.

If its blue smoke its burning oil, could be the turbo seals, piston rings or stem seals. Does it start ok in the mornings?

Take the hose off the compressor side of the turbo and see if its oily.

Stem seals were changed when I changed the head gasket 2 weeks ago.

It starts fine in the morning like it always has.

With the head off I looked at the bores and they seemed fine and smooth, but the pistons did have a little play in the bores. Just a little, enough to notice.

I am considering getting a compression test. There does not seem an excess amount of oil from the turbo considering the ammount of smoke.

When I take the oil filler cap of when running there is a lot if smoke from there.

Stem seals were changed when I changed the head gasket 2 weeks ago.

It starts fine in the morning like it always has.

With the head off I looked at the bores and they seemed fine and smooth, but the pistons did have a little play in the bores. Just a little, enough to notice.

I am considering getting a compression test. There does not seem an excess amount of oil from the turbo considering the ammount of smoke.

When I take the oil filler cap of when running there is a lot if smoke from there.

you cant really tell about bore wear from wobbling pistons as they have a smaller diameter at top than bottom,you need to feel for wear ledge 10 mm down from top of bore on passenger side ,and the amount of cross hatch left ,smoke and pressure from filler cap is sign of ring/bore wear or head gasket incomplete seal ,as an aside you havent changed oil for different than you usually use as some oils do smoke ,when you do pressure test keep cranking till highest pressure reached and do dry then with a few squirts of oil down bore if it increases with oil rings and bore poor if not valves or gasket,not trying to teach you to suck eggs but most dont test twice nowadays

Cheers James. I need to find a compression tester to borrow and I will do the test twice as you suggest.

I will try an oil additive first to increase the viscosity and see if that helps.

I'm new to LRZ so bear with me.

How do I reset fuel pump timing ? I have recently changed belt etc and had nightmare with flywheel locater, as a result i think i totally knocked out my fuel pump timing due to me not being able to read haynes manual Anyway I am where i am (stuffed at mo) Can anyone assist? I have located flywheel lock and lined up TDC ETC , however, I dont think fuel pump is correct ?

KR, Marc.

Wrong way Brian, Lock engine first at flywheel, no1 piston TDC, then slacken the 3 bolts inside pump aperture (cover removed) then with a 22mm socket/spanner turn the big nut on pump until timing pin slips through into pump. The rave has a very good guide to setting pump timing. no1 is on its way to TDC when both valves are closed viewable through filler cap . on a manual the flywheel has a slot for pin to locate into.