Fuel pump issues

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kobul

kobul

Member
Posts
13
Location
chesterfield
Today something strange happened my range rover (L332 TD6). Broke down lol.. Its not missed a beat in the last 12 monyy since having 2 new fuel pumps this time last year. Today i went to start it the range just cranked over. I called out the RAC and found a blown fuel pump fuse. Disconnected the tank pump and it blew another fuse.. so he disconnected the pump under the car and no blown fuse.reconnect the pump under the car and the fuse didnt blow so tried to start it and it fired straight up.. re connected the pump in the fuel tank and no blown fuse.. only thing is i used to hear a ticking sound coming from the tank pump when the car was ticking over now i cant hear anything..what im wondering is the tank pump dead . Because the funny thing is i set the auxiliary heater to come on and the pump in the fuel tank makes a ticking noise.. any thoughts or advise greatly appreciated
 
If the fuse blew when the inline pump was connected it sounds as if your inline pump is nearly dead.
Its drawing a high current hence why it blew the fuse, do not put a higher voltage one in it the circuits are very sensitive and hope you made sure the RAC did not put a higher one in.
Order a new pump ASAP and fit it easy 25 minute job you can do on the roadside in high if you need to did mine Saturday.
I would expect it is getting worn and drawing he higher current, some pumps just die mate for whatever reaon in manufacturing etc, get a kit fuel pump and filter remember this time of year it takes a higher rate to start due to the cold.
 
Thanks. For te reply.. my mate has a spare ebay special pump iv found out so i will fit that .. someone had fitted a 30A fuse and looking at what we found on the internet we swapped it for a 25A fuse.its also worrying me i cant hear the tank pump ticking when the car is running anymore. ..im not sure weather to bite the bullet and change that too
 
kobul said:
Thanks. For te reply.. my mate has a spare ebay special pump iv found out so i will fit that .. someone had fitted a 30A fuse and looking at what we found on the internet we swapped it for a 25A fuse.its also worrying me i cant hear the tank pump ticking when the car is running anymore. ..im not sure weather to bite the bullet and change that too
Click to expand...
The pump in tank is a lift pump and lifts fuel over the top of the tank down to the iline one, If there is no pressure issue then I would imagine fuel is getting to the inline pump, lift the inspection hatch up under the seat and get some one else to just turn the key you should feel it prime up.
I think to be honest the inline is taking the extra load mate windings inside or just stiff, let us know how you get on with it as always adds to the knowladge on forums such as this.

Have you read the error codes or live data ?
 
This part is what leads me to believe that it is the inline pump.
@stustrong is very good with these things he has helped me resolve my issue and without him I would be lost.

"Disconnected the tank pump and it blew another fuse.. so he disconnected the pump under the car and no blown fuse.reconnect the pump under the car and the fuse didnt blow"
 
I can hear a humming from the pump when the car is running when i get chance i will lift the carpet to see if i can feel it kick in.. i took it to a bloke this morning to fault code read it he said there was lots of errors for fuelling but due to the rac messing with it he cleared them off and re scanned it and no codes came back. I asked him if after clearing the codes he ran the car before scanning it again and he said no it wouldn’t need to be run for fault codes to re-show up.. but id have thought it would so now im at a loss what codes were there. He mentioned one for low fuel pressure and another for low pressure in the fuel rail.. think i will phone land rover and get a genuine pump for underneath and see if that helps
 
kobul said:
I can hear a humming from the pump when the car is running when i get chance i will lift the carpet to see if i can feel it kick in.. i took it to a bloke this morning to fault code read it he said there was lots of errors for fuelling but due to the rac messing with it he cleared them off and re scanned it and no codes came back. I asked him if after clearing the codes he ran the car before scanning it again and he said no it wouldn’t need to be run for fault codes to re-show up.. but id have thought it would so now im at a loss what codes were there. He mentioned one for low fuel pressure and another for low pressure in the fuel rail.. think i will phone land rover and get a genuine pump for underneath and see if that helps
Click to expand...
No run = no faults
 
Exactly Datatek..

iv decided to just swap the inline pump for a genuine one.. last year when the in-line pump broke it was replaced with one that i was not 100% happy with.(i had a bad throttle response on the 1st half of throttle sometimes). i dont think they fitted a genuine part as the price was half of a genuine item.. so genuine one is getting fitted and fingers crossed it solves both issues.. if not the tank pump will be getting changed too..
 
Also just a thought… When I disconnect the battery to change the pump will that stop me getting a error code for unplugging the pump

Thanks
 
kobul said:
Also just a thought… When I disconnect the battery to change the pump will that stop me getting a error code for unplugging the pump

Thanks
Click to expand...
No battery means no error code as long as the new pump is connected before the battery is reconnected. That assumes the pump is not coded to the car.
 
kobul said:
Also just a thought… When I disconnect the battery to change the pump will that stop me getting a error code for unplugging the pump

Thanks
Click to expand...
If low fuel presure to filter (low pressure side) its the inline, I would imagine that the low pressure to the common side is caused by the same fault as it is starved of fuel...............do not drive until fixed ! fit a new inline pump and I am sure it will fix it mate, let us know the outcome please.
You are 50/50 on ecu holding codes if disconnected mate, get INPA and icarsoft.
You can change inline without battery disconnect its only a plug that you disconnect before removal so unplug and remove pump.
 
Datatek said:
No battery means no error code as long as the new pump is connected before the battery is reconnected. That assumes the pump is not coded to the car.
Click to expand...
The pump is not coded in fact if you take a look at it mate it is a bit of a joke for such a "high(at thetime) tech" car and is an area where you may think........have they gone a little wrong ?
Have a look at the pump it is quite pre-histric for what one might ecpect for a CDi engine.....all E53's the same CDi at least.
 
Thanks for the input lads .. iv just changed the inline pump and its definitely more responsive on the throttle.. the range drives so much better and not as sluggish up hills time will tell if that was my original fault but either way the genuine pump is a improvement on the other one. The pump i took off was a TI automotive . part. No 18T032. 75005170 . i was quoted £156 for that pump again and paid £200 for the genuine pump so it was a no brainer. I have borrowed a icarsoft code reader but it wont let me in to the engine and I assume the fuel pressure codes would be in there.. i will try again later after i finish work
 
kobul said:
Thanks for the input lads .. iv just changed the inline pump and its definitely more responsive on the throttle.. the range drives so much better and not as sluggish up hills time will tell if that was my original fault but either way the genuine pump is a improvement on the other one. The pump i took off was a TI automotive . part. No 18T032. 75005170 . i was quoted £156 for that pump again and paid £200 for the genuine pump so it was a no brainer. I have borrowed a icarsoft code reader but it wont let me in to the engine and I assume the fuel pressure codes would be in there.. i will try again later after i finish work
Click to expand...
Hi mate, icarsoft should let you read it,

Goto the correct year of car, engine, go down to the bottom where it says "live data" select and then scrol down marking the data you want to read in this case lowe and high pressure, hit back and it will take you to live feeds.
 
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