FUEL PUMP ACCESS HATCH

sam1986 · May 15, 2020

Hi guys

Has anyone got the measurements/dimensions for cutting an access hatch to reach the fuel pump on a 110 td5.

I really dont fancy dropping the tank and all the choice words that will go with it.

I've seen a couple of posts similar to this and just wondered if anyone can pass on any information.

Cheers

retneprac · May 15, 2020

This is what my local LR garage did when they changed mine, sorry no dims.

Tim4x4 · May 16, 2020

Have a look in the technical advice section it has a thread on fitting an inspection hatch. I followed the advise in the thread but used a jigsaw with a very short blade to cut the hole (shortened the blade so as not to catch the pump or pipes when cutting) I used the hatch cover from a chandlers. I did it about 5 years ago. OK I didn't have to drop the tank but it is more work than just cutting a hole. You do have to make good the floor supports. I have only opened it up once since fitting and then it was much easier than having to drop the tank.
Tim

Dickeylefrog · May 17, 2020

Following this thread as I blew a fuel hose on my 110 on Friday. I dropped the tank and fixed it but decided to cut an inspection hatch for future use. I tried to cut so that I didnt cut through and lateral or front to back floor strengthening struts. What I ended up with gives me access to the hoses but it isnt suitable to take out the fuel pump as its a bit further back under a lateral strengthener so wouldnt be able to undo the securing ring. My question is has anyone done a bigger one (i can see the bodge one the garage did in the photo above) if so how did you restrengthen the floor after cutting through the front to back and the lateral strengthener
@sam1986 if you are interested, i drilled two pilot holes in the upstand of the seat under the wheel arch to mark where the inside edge of a the pair of lateral strengtheners over the fuel pump are. Used these holes to draw parallel lines on the truck bed floor mine was 20cm apart but given its a landie that might be different on yours. I then measured 28cm in (the distance to the inside of the forward to back strengtheners) from both sides and completed the rectangle. Then Put tape guides drilled a hole in each corner and then used a fine cut metal disk to cut out the plate. Dont go too deep as there is a central forward to back strengthener you might want to leave in place. The floor is spot welded to this strengthener so you will need a crowbar or big screwdriver to pop it off. You end up with a hole that is supported on all four sides by the existing strengtheners but only suitable for getting to hoses.

Dippypud · May 17, 2020

Dickeylefrog said:
Following this thread as I blew a fuel hose on my 110 on Friday. I dropped the tank and fixed it but decided to cut an inspection hatch for future use. I tried to cut so that I didnt cut through and lateral or front to back floor strengthening struts. What I ended up with gives me access to the hoses but it isnt suitable to take out the fuel pump as its a bit further back under a lateral strengthener so wouldnt be able to undo the securing ring. My question is has anyone done a bigger one (i can see the bodge one the garage did in the photo above) if so how did you restrengthen the floor after cutting through the front to back and the lateral strengthener
@sam1986 if you are interested, i drilled two pilot holes in the upstand of the seat under the wheel arch to mark where the inside edge of a the pair of lateral strengtheners over the fuel pump are. Used these holes to draw parallel lines on the truck bed floor mine was 20cm apart but given its a landie that might be different on yours. I then measured 28cm in (the distance to the inside of the forward to back strengtheners) from both sides and completed the rectangle. Then Put tape guides drilled a hole in each corner and then used a fine cut metal disk to cut out the plate. Dont go too deep as there is a central forward to back strengthener you might want to leave in place. The floor is spot welded to this strengthener so you will need a crowbar or big screwdriver to pop it off. You end up with a hole that is supported on all four sides by the existing strengtheners but only suitable for getting to hoses.

Could you cut the fore and aft strengthener, but then fit a smaller section of tube into it so it can be removed, secured by a screw through the floor maybe ... If that makes any sense out of my head ...

Tim4x4 · May 17, 2020

My solution to strengthening the floor was a bit of a marathon job but I was able to use the truck whilst the work was ongoing.
OK the hole was cut in the required position to accept the boat hatch outer ring as I said I had reduced the length of the blade in the jigsaw to avoid hitting the tank, pump, electrical wiring and fuel pipes. This did not cut all the way through the floor struts. I cut the remaining depth using a small electrical grinder (similar to the Dremel). Now I had access to the pump completed the change of pump (in the process I cleaned the inside if the tank but was surprised and pleased at the lack of sediment in the tank).
So now I have a working truck but with a hole in the floor and the floor strength is compromised by my cutting through the support struts.
I was at first going to make a fabricated floor support that crossed over the new hole following the same lines as the struts and joining them with bolts. so that it could be removed as required (similar to what Dippypud describes).
A friend of mine is a fabricator and the company he works for roll forms various steel sections and he was able to roll a complete circle of T section stainless steel to a size a little larger than the hole.
Now to just give a flavour of what was done.
The T section ring was cut so I had two halves (would not go through the hole without this), straps attached around it with bolts so that it could be reassembled when fed through the hole. Brackets were made to attach to the remaining floor struts by bolting to the struts then bolting to the T section ring.
This configuration has strengthened the floor ( it is not as strong as the original floor supports).
When fitting the hatch the outer body of the hatch was sealed with Tiger seal and is bolted through the floor to the T section ring which is under the floor.
None of the fabrication is visible or intrusive in any way, The hatch has a curved shape (convex) for strength and did lift the carpet a little. I over came this by fitting soundproof matting cutting a hole hatch size in it and refitting the carpet.
I have carried a 450Kg engineering lathe on the bed the pallet was resting on the hatch and it suffered no damage.

Tim

Dippypud · May 17, 2020

Tim4x4 said:
My solution to strengthening the floor was a bit of a marathon job but I was able to use the truck whilst the work was ongoing.
OK the hole was cut in the required position to accept the boat hatch outer ring as I said I had reduced the length of the blade in the jigsaw to avoid hitting the tank, pump, electrical wiring and fuel pipes. This did not cut all the way through the floor struts. I cut the remaining depth using a small electrical grinder (similar to the Dremel). Now I had access to the pump completed the change of pump (in the process I cleaned the inside if the tank but was surprised and pleased at the lack of sediment in the tank).
So now I have a working truck but with a hole in the floor and the floor strength is compromised by my cutting through the support struts.
I was at first going to make a fabricated floor support that crossed over the new hole following the same lines as the struts and joining them with bolts. so that it could be removed as required (similar to what Dippypud describes).
A friend of mine is a fabricator and the company he works for roll forms various steel sections and he was able to roll a complete circle of T section stainless steel to a size a little larger than the hole.
Now to just give a flavour of what was done.
The T section ring was cut so I had two halves (would not go through the hole without this), straps attached around it with bolts so that it could be reassembled when fed through the hole. Brackets were made to attach to the remaining floor struts by bolting to the struts then bolting to the T section ring.
This configuration has strengthened the floor ( it is not as strong as the original floor supports).
When fitting the hatch the outer body of the hatch was sealed with Tiger seal and is bolted through the floor to the T section ring which is under the floor.
None of the fabrication is visible or intrusive in any way, The hatch has a curved shape (convex) for strength and did lift the carpet a little. I over came this by fitting soundproof matting cutting a hole hatch size in it and refitting the carpet.
I have carried a 450Kg engineering lathe on the bed the pallet was resting on the hatch and it suffered no damage.

Tim

Cracking work around ...

Dickeylefrog · Jun 8, 2020

Thanks guys. Had another idea. If I cut through the side to side strut that is over the fuel pump and take the hole back a bit further I can put in a new support from YRM under the floor at the rear edge if the hole. then if I get a chequer plate liner put that in the bed but cut a hole in it 100mm bigger all four sides than the hole in the floor then it will rest on the chasis to each side and the existing strut to the front and the new one to the back. I can then use a self tapper in each corner. That way it wont stick up and foul sliding stuff in and out of the bed. If it needs a bit of support I can rivet the old fore and aft and side to side supports onto the underside of the plate

FUEL PUMP ACCESS HATCH

sam1986

Member

retneprac

Well-Known Member

Tim4x4

Well-Known Member

Dickeylefrog

Active Member

Dippypud

Never Knowingly Understood

Tim4x4

Well-Known Member

Dippypud

Never Knowingly Understood

Dickeylefrog

Active Member

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