Fuel injection pump identification help PLEASE

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Tickman

Member
Posts
89
Location
Dundee
I am needing a new fuel injection pump and am new to working on the landrover diesel. Could someone tell me if this is an EDC pump and if it is can I fit a normal one?
Found one on ebay which is worth the gamble for the price!

The pictures I have are quite poor but any help give would be great:

IMAG0945_zps39cdc43b.jpg



Thanks,

John
 
courtesy of kingson

Default Disco EDC to mechanical fuel injection pump
Here is my report to the recent changes I've made to my 97' 300tdi auto with EDC fuel injection pump to the standard 300tdi with mechanical fuel pump.

Items required:

- 300tdi fuel injection pump (200tdi's dont work), with or without EGR potentiometer
- standard 300tdi fuel injectors x 4
- fuel injection pipes from pump to injectors
- kick down cable bracket from standard 300tdi auto
- length of wire with a space connector at one end

Procedures:

- remove EDC fuel injection pipes
- remove EDC fuel injectors
- remove EDC electronic fuel injection pump (A)
- unplug ECU (B)
- attach standard mechanical fuel injection pump (C)
- attach standard fuel injectors
- attach standard fuel injection pipes
- bleed fuel from system (D)
- attach throttle cable & kick down cable
- done and start commissioning with engine running

(A) :

- remove fan
- remove fan cowl
- remove crank pulley
- remove timing cover
- set crank & cam to TDC
- loose 8mm allen bolt to timing belt tensioner
- remove timing belt
- remove sprocket on injection pump
- unplug electrical connectors, 2 pieces
- remove 3 x 13mm nut at front of pump attaching to timing case
- remove 2 x bolts securing injection pump to engine block, 10mm bolt, 13mm nut
- lift out injection pump

(B) :

- remove plastic securing plug on driver's side kick panel
- lift out kick panel
- ECY is just above all the relays behind kick panel
- use a short spade screw driver, prise out/loosen ECU socket securing pin, then pull down the securing pin with finger, you can then remove the 55 pin plug to ECU

(C) :

- attach mechanical fuel injection pump to timing case
- attach 3 x 13mm nut securing to timing case
- attach 2 nuts and bolts securing to engine block, 13mm nut, 10mm bolt
- loosely attach timing belt sprocket onto injection pump
- use a 22mm socket, turn the injection pump sprocket until a 9mm drill bit can be slotted into the TDC locking hole on injection pump
- attach timing belt. To tighten timing belt, first use an breaker bar with a 6 inch long 1/2 inch size extension. There's a slot on timing belt tensional plate where the extension can be slotted in and give leverage for tightening tensioner. After timing belt tensioner is tighten, tighten the 3 10mm nut on injection pump sprocket.
- check that timing belt is spot on TDC. To check on that, woodruff key on crank shaft should be vertically straight pointing to top. There should be a mark on cam sprocket, that should be pointing at 7 o'clock. Use mirror to check the cam sprocket marking is inline to an 'arrow' on timing case. Lastly, make sure the 9mm drill bit is still slotted into the injection pump locking hole
- attach timing cover
- remove 3 x 10mm bolt on timing cover for the injection pump inspection cover, then remove the cover for injection pump adjustment & commissioning (E)
- attach crank pulley
- attach fan belt
- attach fen and cowl

(D) :

- loosen 10mm bolt on top of fuel filter housing
- toggle the lever on fuel lift pump. If no pressure is felt, turn the crank shaft till pressure is felt
- once fuel starts flowing out from the bleed screw without air bubbles, tighten bleed screw

(E) Commissioning & adjustment on injection pump :

- with the timing belt on, loosen the 3 x 10mm bolt on injection pump sprocket. Then use 22mm socket, turn the center plate on the sprocket to the left, put a mark on the center plate and sprocket, then turn the center plate to the right and mark on sprocket. Then turn the center plate back to the middle. Tighten the 3 x 10mm bolt.
- start the engine, listen to the engine running. If it runs a little rough, repeat the above procedures, and move the center plate on injection pump sprocket either left (advance) or right (retard) to get the engine running smoothly. Do each adjustment at 1mm each time.
- adjust throttle cable tightness as well as kick down cable tightness. Throttle cable should have about 1mm free play when you move it left to right. Kick down cable should be all the way in the cable sleeve before throttle is depressed. Adjust idling screw. Standard idling for auto is about 750 + 30 rpm
- once you are satisfied with the engine running, attach the injection pump inspection cover
Edit/Delete Message
 
Just been out again, the light is quite poor so photos are coming out badly.
Yes it is an Auto!
Just been out and had a look, not great access for pictures as the aircon pump is above.
I had found a post elsewhere about a defender saying if there is a wire to injector 4 then edc and I have just looked and have a wire going to injector 4!

Going to be a little more complicated and expensive then!

Do you have a link with pictures for the above instructions?

John
 
Back
Top