Front wing rot

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
tomhop

tomhop

Active Member
Posts
320
Location
Scotland Angus
What is the best way to deal with this? I was thinking of cutting out the rotten bits and riveting in a new piece of aluminium to the face of it I thought once painted you wouldn't notice? Don't really want to have to buy 2 new front wing panels

IMG_1723.JPG
 
Last edited:
Its not really rot its the natural process of steel and aluminium touching and corroding.

Your approach sounds ok... looks like there is plenty of space to keep any patch under the lights/indicator.
 
They are £60 each so £120 for the pair plus postage, rebuilding the whole vehicle is expensive so I am trying to make savings where ever possible.

What I was hoping was if I could cut a piece of aluminium which I can get through work I could fit it as small as possible to the existing wing that it would give a strong fixing that wouldn't be very obvious.

Just wondering what others have done??
 
Most such (budget) repairs I have seen are a square of alli an inch bigger than the light with the correct size hole in it to take the rubber light base.
Fit the plate from under the wing, fit the light base from the front then drill and screw it in place through wing and plate. Just like having a big repair washer behind the wing.

Everyone knows tratters rot. Wange Wovers corrode. :rolleyes: or is that cowode.............:p
 
I really need to see if DC TIG is gonna save the day for this trouble or not - I need to myth bust the internet chatter on this one...
 
tomhop said:
???
Click to expand...
"Some say" Birmabright can be welded with TIG (Argon shielded) - "they" say Birmabright responds better to DC rather than the more commonly used / assumed AC systems used for aluminium.

If DC TIG is a solution new bits could be welded in place where there was once corrosion dust.

I've got a DC TIG amplifier. I've got argon gas. I've got several packets of different electrodes / wolframs to try out. I've got filler rod (can't remember the type I got but it is meant to be good for Birmabright). I've got a load of 5251 aluminium which is meant to be the closest modern version to Birmabright. I've got old Birmabright. I've got Birmabright with holes...

...still haven't gotten around to trying it out yet though...
 
An alternative to welding could be something like HTS 2000 / lumiweld etc. These are lower melting alloys that can be used (much like solder) to stick pieces together. I have tried to do this here =>

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/1965-series-2a-station-wagon-in-holland.298002/page-20

The problem I experienced with this stuff is that there is a high chance of getting a load of distortion - on larger flat panels / repairs I don't consider it to be viable. (Hence the upcoming welding trial)
 
I remember seeing someone repairing the tub and bonding the alloy with some kind of liquid metal paste, it think it worked fine with a few pop rivets for location.
Regarding alloy welding it's a bit specialist, if you have to get it done by a professional I bet you would soon hit the cost of a new wing if they are £60.
 
raywin said:
I remember seeing someone repairing the tub and bonding the alloy with some kind of liquid metal paste, it think it worked fine with a few pop rivets for location.
Regarding alloy welding it's a bit specialist, if you have to get it done by a professional I bet you would soon hit the cost of a new wing if they are £60.
Click to expand...
Oh yeah that gunk repair shops are now starting to use =>



I don't know how it would fare on grotty Birmabright though.
 
raywin said:
I remember seeing someone repairing the tub and bonding the alloy with some kind of liquid metal paste, it think it worked fine with a few pop rivets for location.
Regarding alloy welding it's a bit specialist, if you have to get it done by a professional I bet you would soon hit the cost of a new wing if they are £60.
Click to expand...

I am quite lucky i have a really good smiddy 2 minutes down the road and they seem to be able to stick anything together and do a tidy job, and they are not hard to pay. i am hoping they are not too busy in the next couple of weeks as my bulk head has a lot of replacement parts needing welded in! and i am not much use on the welder when it comes to thin metal....:oops:
 
Stretch said:
"Some say" Birmabright can be welded with TIG (Argon shielded) - "they" say Birmabright responds better to DC rather than the more commonly used / assumed AC systems used for aluminium.

If DC TIG is a solution new bits could be welded in place where there was once corrosion dust.

I've got a DC TIG amplifier. I've got argon gas. I've got several packets of different electrodes / wolframs to try out. I've got filler rod (can't remember the type I got but it is meant to be good for Birmabright). I've got a load of 5251 aluminium which is meant to be the closest modern version to Birmabright. I've got old Birmabright. I've got Birmabright with holes...

...still haven't gotten around to trying it out yet though...
Click to expand...
Ain't you supposed to reverse polarity for alli so it arcs towards the gun.
 
Stretch said:
I've read that too - I'm not sure if it is necessary - but I haven't tried yet - too distracted with other things...
Click to expand...
Something to do with the arc breaking through the anodising and not mixing it with the weld.
Don't think my stick welder would cope well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Trouble fitting front wing
Replies
3
Views
560
steve2286w
steve2286w
S
Location of Relay Box
Replies
3
Views
402
Wildefalcon
W
SPLRover
Defender Wing Panel Repair
2
Replies
25
Views
3K
SPLRover
SPLRover
G
S3 dash - just what is available ?
Replies
6
Views
508
doriz
doriz
Britcyclerider
90 aftermarket outer wing panel quality
Replies
9
Views
949
300bhp/ton
300bhp/ton
Back
Top