Front wheel bearings water ingress

I put new front Timken wheel bearings in 2 years ago and just checking before MOT they are totally shot.
I wade almost daily during a couple of months in the winter as live the other side of a ford so expect water gets in. I did use a load of PTFE tape when I put the rubber hub cap on to try a seal better.
The rear bearings have a seal to both the back and front of the hub but the front just have a back seal, the rear bearings are fine and also older than the front bearings.
Reading some other threads looks like i need to resort to removing hub cleaning and re greasing more often.
Has anyone else had this or found a way to seal; front bearings in better? I am going to put a jubilee clip around the rubber hub cap this time!!

Rob 90 said:

I put new front Timken wheel bearings in 2 years ago and just checking before MOT they are totally shot.
I wade almost daily during a couple of months in the winter as live the other side of a ford so expect water gets in. I did use a load of PTFE tape when I put the rubber hub cap on to try a seal better.
The rear bearings have a seal to both the back and front of the hub but the front just have a back seal, the rear bearings are fine and also older than the front bearings.
Reading some other threads looks like i need to resort to removing hub cleaning and re greasing more often.
Has anyone else had this or found a way to seal; front bearings in better? I am going to put a jubilee clip around the rubber hub cap this time!!

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Officially, from the Land Rover Operating Instruction Manual, after wading you are advised to change all lubrication fluids!

The seals are designed to stop a fairly heavy oil/grease from coming out, during use they warm up, quenching them in cold water will cause a sudden cooling which will lead to a pressure change and for a split second the axle components will have a slight vacuum on them (until some air rushes in the breather to equalise pressures) so there is a good chance that as you wade in some water gets sucked in - now it may only be a weep, but daily this will add up. I know this is not what you want to read but be it a vehicle, machine or tool, they need maintained to do their job reliably and give longevity. Wading is a function of these vehicles and they do it well, but you need to maintain it appropriately.

If it was me I would probably do a full oil/grease change after the rainy season is over. Ideally letting them drain out for over night, and blown clean with air then a cupful of oil as a flush before finally refitting.

Do you have the early swivels with the drain plug or the later "filled for life" type? If the earlier type, because the water will be at the bottom once parked and settled, even undoing the drain to nearly the last thread would probably let water drain out without needing to do a fll oil drain, but for the sake of a few litres of EP90 would just fairly regularly change the oil. If the latter this process becomes a bit more complex.

What about using them drive flanges with the screw on cap? I believe they have an O ring or something in the cap.

As flossie says heavy duty drive members, britpart ones just fine and work well.

On mine I have gone to using series metal caps with a bead of silicon. Nothing gets in or out and they are a lot tougher, if you knock one off it will usualy go back on. [ if found ]

You could also use a high quality waterproof/low wash out/extreme pressure[shear] bearing/hub grease. Long distance hard driving river crossing rally guys swear by Amsoil https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/synthetic-water-resistant-grease/ it's readily available in the UK http://www.performanceoilsltd.co.uk/water_resistant_grease.html

Cheers guys all good ideas.
Just had a quick look on greedbay for heavy duty drive members and all look a bit pricey
Looks like I will have to have a spring wheel bearing maintenance day each year but will try some series metal caps.
Not sure if the swivels have drain plugs, will check but be worth changing oil in these also.
I found you can drain these by loosening the top 2 bolts that hold the brake pipe bracket on by accident.

v8250 said:

You could also use a high quality waterproof/low wash out/extreme pressure[shear] bearing/hub grease. Long distance hard driving river crossing rally guys swear by Amsoil https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/synthetic-water-resistant-grease/ it's readily available in the UK http://www.performanceoilsltd.co.uk/water_resistant_grease.html

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Thanks for the small amount I need will probably do me well.
Will have a go with this too Cheers

Take a bottom swivel pin bolt out to drain.

The last caps I bought are a much harder plastic than the old rubber ones. They seal really well, in fact I need a mallet to get them on. Might be worth a look on line. I'm pretty sure they came in a blue bag.

zeaphod said:

The last caps I bought are a much harder plastic than the old rubber ones. They seal really well, in fact I need a mallet to get them on. Might be worth a look on line. I'm pretty sure they came in a blue bag.

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The last ones I got were the harder plastic ones and did seem to be a really good fit, water still got in somehow though.
I did find with these though they were single use as on removal they split.
The metal series ones turned up today so will give them a go, just waiting for the waterproof grease to turn up before I fit the new bearings.
Thanks

Check your axle breather is clear, when a warm axle case hits cold water the air inside contracts and if breather is blocked water can be sucked in at poor cap's / seals .

tottot said:

Check your axle breather is clear, when a warm axle case hits cold water the air inside contracts and if breather is blocked water can be sucked in at poor cap's / seals .

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Yes worth a check i suppose will give them a blast through with airline, did fit new ones to axles and gearboxes and extended up to the snorkel a couple of years ago so could have crud in by now. Cheers