Disco 2 Front Recovery Points

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Shimsteriom

Master Procrastinator
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Over Here
Scenario: Out green-laning, and you're driving the second vehicle. All of a sudden, the lead vehicle finds itself stuck in some gloopy material, and it's not going any further in the forward direction, so the only way out is backwards.
So, like a hero, you jump out of your D2, grab your ropes and shackles and then spend the next 30 minutes trying to figure out where to fasten the ropes to on the front of your car because there's no way you're going to try using the towing eye?!

Are there any aftermarket fixings that can be purchased? I had jate rings on my previous D1, but from mooching about on the interweb, there's no way to use these on the front of a D2 with the factory bumper fitted.
 
Hi Shimmy,

Ooopsss..................guess you did not think about that...:p:p:p..also would have been a problem if you needed towing forwards.......LOL.

This has been discussed a few times on here. There are some brackets that can be fitted, but they do require a little trimming of the bumper.


Cheers
 
Thanks. I've seen some home-made parts which look as if the owner has taken a hacksaw to the front bumper, which I'm not overly keen on. I'd be happy to replace the entire front bumper, but then you have to worry about the washer bottle.
 
There are heavy duty steel bumpers available which don't expose the washer bottle. They are a big advantage as they have integral recovery points, better approach angle & won't get damaged easily.
If you fit one before you damage your existing bumper, it won't cost much as you can sell the undamaged standard bumper for a significant amount!
Some even look good!
Have a look at the First Four Shadow, non winch bumper. I've had 1 for 3 years plus now & it still looks good.
 
£500 is a bit steep, but at least it's an option.

I also have to consider delivery costs to the Island, and given that most of these companies don't even know where the Isle of Man is, it won't be cheap. :(
 
I would be surprised if you could not get them made easily enough on the Island.

Cheers
I was just thinking that.
I'm already going to speak to a local firm about water-jetting a chequer plate for my back door, so I can't imagine it would that difficult for them to cut out some stainless for me given that I have the measurements from that site.
 
I was just thinking that.
I'm already going to speak to a local firm about water-jetting a chequer plate for my back door, so I can't imagine it would that difficult for them to cut out some stainless for me given that I have the measurements from that site.

Well, I think plasma cutting might be a better way to do it. plus I personally would use at least 10mm. . Ask them what the Tensile strength is for what they have available. SS is not always the best to use.

Cheers
 
SS is not always the best to use.
Yeah sorry, I was looking at their website as I was posting as they keep going on about SS that migrated in to my post. I might have to use another company as further reading suggests they only do SS and Ally.
 
Yeah sorry, I was looking at their website as I was posting as they keep going on about SS that migrated in to my post. I might have to use another company as further reading suggests they only do SS and Ally.

Does not hurt to ask. They probably do mild steel as well.

As it is it is only going to be held in place by 2 x M10 bolts. Also make sure they have the correct shank length.

Cheers
 
The First Four bumper cost has gone up a lot since I bought ours . Shipping onto the IOM probably wouldn't be cheap as you suggest.
I had 2 plates I made similar to those in your link before I changed to the First Four bumper. As suggested by Neilly, 10mm is a lot better / stronger. If you go that route, make sure you get 10.8 grade extended bolts and equivalent nuts + high strength washers (standard washers will bend / distort into any slotted holes & make tightening up to the high torques they'll need a pig (been there, done that & got the T sheet - lol)
 
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