Front prop shaft

Just been crawling under under the 110 an noticed the front prop sliding joint has a lot of up n down play, is this normal ?

Play as in the uj's or the slidey bit?

Bradj999 said:

Play as in the uj's or the slidey bit?

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The uj's are fine it's the slidy bit

Wots it like for uppy downy play at the transfer box end?

GRUNT said:

Wots it like for uppy downy play at the transfer box end?

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It's this bit thats all floppy

If the slidy bit is worn you either need to get your shaft reconditioned at a good place or buy a new one. Not a DIY thing to recon a shaft.

Sounds like the splines in the middle are badly worn. I haven't come across this before, but if I were you I wouldn't drive it too far, then again I can't tell from here how bad it is... but propshafts breaking in the middle can be disastrous.. You can imagine what each half will do... Be sure you get the right one for your model, the TD5 one is slightly longer than the TDi one and not all suppliers are aware of it. I bought a 90 TD5 with a recently fitted front propshaft and the vibes from the front was the propshaft fully extended and complaining.. I got a new one from Hardy Spicers last year (in Leek, I think, by mail); they were extremely helpful and the guy I spoke to had a table with all the info for each model and it was much cheaper than LR, (around £110) and the yokes were much bigger than the TDi version, a tough item. Then again there's always Paddocks - get new nuts & bolts for the flanges.. You need 4 bolts and 8 nuts as the gearbox end flange bolts don't come out. The bolts can be sodding awkward to get off, but Difflock do a neat tool to aid removal, a socket on a slim shank. They are 9/16ths AF, by the way. If you notice a slight vibration from the new propshaft after fitting, disconnect one end and move it around the flange and bolt it up again and re-try. I believe they are 'balanced' by trial and error at the factory (info from another forum) and that's why you should always put a removed propshaft back in the same position on the flanges as when it came off. I'll leave you to figure out which wheels to jack up so you can turn the flanges around to unbolt/bolt up cuz I can't remember. It's fun.. but not much!

Sod the waffle look at the pic it's ****ed.

Wot I was angling after was, is the transfer box output bearing knackered as well.

Don't know I'll see if it woobles tomorrow, at the moment I'm only driving with the rear diff

looking at the picture is is as dry as a bone, not been greased

Excuse the slight digression but can you just pop that rubber seal off and apply grease? Or is something more required? Given the state of my landy I'm thinking I should check this (and 100 other things)

well i would expect there should be a grease nipple to grease the splines but i could be wrong, it may be possible to pop seal then push in some grease but i would check for a nipple or at least a hole for a nipple to screw into on the side first

I'm sure i'll be on my back under the landy again this evening so I'll have a look, thanks

There is a grease nipple on the splined end to grease the splines but from what you've described and looking at the photo it's beyond help. There are also grease nipples for the UJ's.

i always like to grease nipples!