front disc and calliper renewal..

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Pikey

Dummy Ejection Facilitator..
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Rplaced the vented front disc and the callipers. on the 110 & thought I'd share the experience with you. :)

1st chock at least 1 of the rear wheels and apply the handbrake.

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Then engage difflock and put the vehicle into 1st gear. This will lock the hub and prevent it from turning when undoing the bolts.

Loosen the wheel nuts and then jack up the vehicle, and place an axle stand under the front axle.

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Use a pair of brake line clamps or mole grips to clamp the flexi pipe leading to the brake calliper then undo the brake pipe nfrom the rear of the calliper
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Undo the 2 retaining bolts on the rear of the brake calliper. You will need a 13mm 12point socket for this. the calliper will now lift away from the Hub

The next job is to remove the disc and hub assembly

prise off the rubber cap at the centre of the hub.
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using a pair of circlip pliers remove the circlip and slip the shim off the end of the drive shaft.

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Undo the 5 drive flange retaining bolts (17mm) and remove the drive flange. It may be stiff. a light tap with a number 1 loosening tool usually sorts this.

You will now need a flat chisel or large screwdriver to knock the retaining washer flat, and allow the outer hub nut to be undone.

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Flattened washer
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Undo outer hubnut (52mm) slip off the retaining washer and then undo the inner hubnut. The hub and disc will now pull off the axle.

the outer bearing will fall out of the hub. Place it somewhere safe and clean cos you'll need it later If you're not fitting new bearings.

turn the hub over and you'll see the 5 bolts that hold the disc onto the hub. (14mm 12point socket required for these) You'll need to either clamp thi8s into a vice or bolt the hub back onto the wheel, to hold it steady whilest you undo the bolts.
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The disc sits on the collar of the hub. and will need a large hammer tpo seperate it from the hub. Refitting of disc and hub is simple enough. Just remember to use thread locking compound on the disc, drive flange and calliper bolts. on and a new paper gasket on the drive flange.

New and old discs

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A rather knackered Calliper

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And there you have it
 
I've got an old D1 steel wheel that is kept for the job of changing discs. Remove disc and hub as you say, then place wheel bolts in the holes provided by said spare wheel while it is resting on the floor. Then you have plenty of access to the bolts, and you can get all the leverage you may need
 
I was in at mine on Thursday night and destroyed a flange getting it off this rusty midden. :eek:

Mine has the single staked hub nut, can I put it back together with the older style double lock nuts and washer?

flange.jpg
 
I was in at mine on Thursday night and destroyed a flange getting it off this rusty midden. :eek:

Mine has the single staked hub nut, can I put it back together with the older style double lock nuts and washer?

flange.jpg
you could if you removed the selectable spacer between bearings ,thye earlier 2 nuts uses 2 nuts so you can lock them together as you cant lock nut against the bearings without over tigthening the bearings ,later type uses a spacer selected in size so that once nut is tightened against the bearings ,bearings are set with appropiate load
 
Seeing pics like this makes me feel much better about mine. Suddenly the world is not so dark...........

Yeah, the rubber caps have never been off in the 4 years I've had it, and probably not in the 6 before I did either! :D

Now duly added to the regular service list!
 
you could if you removed the selectable spacer between bearings ,thye earlier 2 nuts uses 2 nuts so you can lock them together as you cant lock nut against the bearings without over tigthening the bearings ,later type uses a spacer selected in size so that once nut is tightened against the bearings ,bearings are set with appropiate load

Cheers.
 
i would of done the bearings when i was in there,quite possible would have replaced swivels too,

I also replaced the bi-hex bolts as they were quite soft on the heads...


Swivels and bearing were done end about 2 months ago. also had to strip drive shafts, stub axles and drive flanges off the disco cos they ones on it were completely fooked.

Not bad for a vehicle that had been MOT'd less than 4 weeks earlier. It also need new springs and shocks and the front chassis leg drivers side replacing..

Never buy a Landy off a Farmer :doh:
 
Hi mate thanks for that as I need to do mine just a question I have a 86 90 do you know if I change my disks to vents will I have to change the callipers?
 
Hi mate thanks for that as I need to do mine just a question I have a 86 90 do you know if I change my disks to vents will I have to change the callipers?

and the brake line feeds. Solid discs in an early 90/110 will be twin feed. callipers for vented discs have a single feed.
 
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and the brake line feeds. Solid discs in an early 90/110 will be twin feed. callipers for vented discs have a single feed.
Fred Recycle so bear with… read ^^

The statement above concerns me as I’ve just broken down the callipers which are dual pot on a solid disk with a single feed :eek: are there any brake eggspurts out there please?
 
Fred Recycle so bear with… read ^^

The statement above concerns me as I’ve just broken down the callipers which are dual pot on a solid disk with a single feed :eek: are there any brake eggspurts out there please?

My 87 on parts catalogue shows single pipes.

My 96 manual notes 110 & 130 vented discs fitted as standard. Also shows only single pipe.

J
 
Fred Recycle so bear with… read ^^

The statement above concerns me as I’ve just broken down the callipers which are dual pot on a solid disk with a single feed :eek: are there any brake eggspurts out there please?
I only have single feed on my solid disk calipers. Are the calipers not the same anyway, the vented caliper just has a spacer fitted between the two halves
(pic from google with the most obvious spacer I could find)?
Defender-front-calipers-LOF-2-scaled.jpg
 
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