raywin
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,808
- Location
- North Yorkshire
I have seen a few people discussing this, I did the drivers side last year and decided its high time to do the passenger side.
Took a few pictures but this is one of the dirtiest mucky jobs and sometimes I was just too mucked up to use the camera so try to follow.
I hope it might help someone
As you can see the newness has gone off this one
So get ready to catch the grease and oil which will be inside best to put down some cardboard, even so still managed to get grease on the drive.
Took off the brake caliper which will be replaced, the bolt heads were in bad shape and I was lucky to get them out without too much of a problem, nice to use my 1977 vintage Gordon socket set with Sheffield England on each socket.
Remove the circlip and small spacers from the end of the drive shaft, and put them safe, well worth getting some decent circlip pliers rather than playing around with screwdrivers. Take out the five bolts and remove the center boss, then you will need to take off the wheel bearing nut, I bought a 52mm socket its much stronger than any box sppaner and about the same price, dont forget the nut is staked and you will need to get a screwdriver or suitable instrument under the flat and knock it up to allow the nut to spin.
Once you get the nut off then you can remove the hub and the brake disk, nice and easy to pop out the two ball joints now. Take out the 6 bolts and remove the stub axle.
Next bit is very important, clean up the swivel retaining bolts with a wire brush and work a 14mm spanner onto them, then brush again, DO NOT try to get them off until the spanner goes on completely, if you damage the heads you will be in for a day to remember. Wind the bolts out a few threads and then spray some lubricant down the bolt shank to try and get it onto the threads.
Also into the threads behind the axle
Then wind the bolt back and nip it up in order to carry the lubrication int the threads, now you can take it out, sound strange but it helps and actually can save you some time. I cut the open end off a 14mm combination spanner and use a length of pipe on the end, they are very tight and have some locking compound on them.
Invest in a set of new bolts they are cheap and well worth it.
Then tap out the holes
I cleaned up the housing with a needle gun and wire brush then painted it with three coats of POR 15 never used it before but I am giving it a try
Push the new half shaft seal into the back of the swivel make sure it's the same way as the one which you have taken off.
Put the large seal and retaining plate onto the swivel, be sure the retainer is the right way, don't forget this or you will be kicking yourself, clean the faces and put on a new gasket I also smeared a bit of silicone on the faces, tighter the bolts up they need to be F tight.
Put in the swivel bearings with some grease and fit the swivel ball.
I wont go into the process of shimming the bearing pins to get the correct pre-load probably best to go and look at the video of this process on you-tube which shows it quite clearly, I think the video is better than any written explanation.
Replace to half shaft and CVJ, take care and try to support the weight as you push it through the new oil seal which you have fitted, then you can put back the stub axle, which bolts onto the housing clean the faces and use a nice new gasket, check there is nothing inside which should not be there.
I smear the outer edge of the large seal which runs on the swivel ball with silicone to help it seal in the housing, then push it into the back of the housing and put the bolts in the seal retainer then nip them up.
Take the old seal out of the back of the hub and take out the wheel bearing races ( outer races should stay in place) try and keep the roller races separate and put them back in the same position I.e. Inside and outside, I washed the roller races in white spirit then in brake cleaner then blew them with air to get them as clean as possible, get some synthetic bearing grease and get it right into the roller races put some into the nice clean hub and fit a new seal at the back.
Carefully put them onto the stub axle don't damage the new seal. be certain that the spacer is in place between the two inner races and then fit the bearing retaining nut torque it up with the 52mm socket,and knock down the lip of the nut onto the flat in order to lock it up.
clean and grease the splines on the end of the drive shaft, clean up the center boss and put some grease on the splines ( I use molly grease) clean the faces and put on a new gasket , put the 5 bolts in and tighten up, then fit the spacers and circlip which you have stored safely.
Then the brake caliper can go back on, I am upgrading to vented disks so changing the caliper also, well worth getting new bolts with good heads on them they are not expensive.
Now remove the plug in the top of the housing and fill it with the one shot grease, Its best if you have the steering turned towards the passenger side as this will let the grease go inside much more easily.
Regarding the brake back plate, mine were very scabby so I tried cleaning and soaking them in Vinegar which I have read gets rid of the rust, it didn't after a couple of days it was just as bad, so I invested £14 in a new one which I am going to paint with POR 15 before I fit it.
So not a great photo but looking a bit better now, I changed the seal retaining bolts to stainless ones quite cheap and saves a struggle next time.
Took a few pictures but this is one of the dirtiest mucky jobs and sometimes I was just too mucked up to use the camera so try to follow.
I hope it might help someone
As you can see the newness has gone off this one
So get ready to catch the grease and oil which will be inside best to put down some cardboard, even so still managed to get grease on the drive.
Took off the brake caliper which will be replaced, the bolt heads were in bad shape and I was lucky to get them out without too much of a problem, nice to use my 1977 vintage Gordon socket set with Sheffield England on each socket.
Remove the circlip and small spacers from the end of the drive shaft, and put them safe, well worth getting some decent circlip pliers rather than playing around with screwdrivers. Take out the five bolts and remove the center boss, then you will need to take off the wheel bearing nut, I bought a 52mm socket its much stronger than any box sppaner and about the same price, dont forget the nut is staked and you will need to get a screwdriver or suitable instrument under the flat and knock it up to allow the nut to spin.
Once you get the nut off then you can remove the hub and the brake disk, nice and easy to pop out the two ball joints now. Take out the 6 bolts and remove the stub axle.
Next bit is very important, clean up the swivel retaining bolts with a wire brush and work a 14mm spanner onto them, then brush again, DO NOT try to get them off until the spanner goes on completely, if you damage the heads you will be in for a day to remember. Wind the bolts out a few threads and then spray some lubricant down the bolt shank to try and get it onto the threads.
Also into the threads behind the axle
Then wind the bolt back and nip it up in order to carry the lubrication int the threads, now you can take it out, sound strange but it helps and actually can save you some time. I cut the open end off a 14mm combination spanner and use a length of pipe on the end, they are very tight and have some locking compound on them.
Invest in a set of new bolts they are cheap and well worth it.
Then tap out the holes
I cleaned up the housing with a needle gun and wire brush then painted it with three coats of POR 15 never used it before but I am giving it a try
Push the new half shaft seal into the back of the swivel make sure it's the same way as the one which you have taken off.
Put the large seal and retaining plate onto the swivel, be sure the retainer is the right way, don't forget this or you will be kicking yourself, clean the faces and put on a new gasket I also smeared a bit of silicone on the faces, tighter the bolts up they need to be F tight.
Put in the swivel bearings with some grease and fit the swivel ball.
I wont go into the process of shimming the bearing pins to get the correct pre-load probably best to go and look at the video of this process on you-tube which shows it quite clearly, I think the video is better than any written explanation.
Replace to half shaft and CVJ, take care and try to support the weight as you push it through the new oil seal which you have fitted, then you can put back the stub axle, which bolts onto the housing clean the faces and use a nice new gasket, check there is nothing inside which should not be there.
I smear the outer edge of the large seal which runs on the swivel ball with silicone to help it seal in the housing, then push it into the back of the housing and put the bolts in the seal retainer then nip them up.
Take the old seal out of the back of the hub and take out the wheel bearing races ( outer races should stay in place) try and keep the roller races separate and put them back in the same position I.e. Inside and outside, I washed the roller races in white spirit then in brake cleaner then blew them with air to get them as clean as possible, get some synthetic bearing grease and get it right into the roller races put some into the nice clean hub and fit a new seal at the back.
Carefully put them onto the stub axle don't damage the new seal. be certain that the spacer is in place between the two inner races and then fit the bearing retaining nut torque it up with the 52mm socket,and knock down the lip of the nut onto the flat in order to lock it up.
clean and grease the splines on the end of the drive shaft, clean up the center boss and put some grease on the splines ( I use molly grease) clean the faces and put on a new gasket , put the 5 bolts in and tighten up, then fit the spacers and circlip which you have stored safely.
Then the brake caliper can go back on, I am upgrading to vented disks so changing the caliper also, well worth getting new bolts with good heads on them they are not expensive.
Now remove the plug in the top of the housing and fill it with the one shot grease, Its best if you have the steering turned towards the passenger side as this will let the grease go inside much more easily.
Regarding the brake back plate, mine were very scabby so I tried cleaning and soaking them in Vinegar which I have read gets rid of the rust, it didn't after a couple of days it was just as bad, so I invested £14 in a new one which I am going to paint with POR 15 before I fit it.
So not a great photo but looking a bit better now, I changed the seal retaining bolts to stainless ones quite cheap and saves a struggle next time.
Last edited:
