Front axle questionfor an F250

I recently was given an 89 F250 7.3L Deisel 4x4, many miles and ok condition
make it little to no trade in value, hence the free nature. Back to my
question. It was driven into a ditch while my brother-in-law was driving it
to work early one morning, he fell asleep. The pickup was repaired at the
body shop and they were supposed to have replaced that half of the, Dana 44
IFS, axle. This is the drivers side, btw. Here's my problem. It tends to eat
front wheel bearings on this side only. All parts have been replaced w/ new
or used from a reputable auto recycler, short of the drive axle. The truck
howls while going down the freeway, harder in a right hand turn, quieter in
a left. Obviously the bearings are under a pretty hard preload. Two other
observed problems. The spindle nut (?) that holds everything tight has a
nasty habit of loosening itself. The other problem is I just bought some new
Warn Premium Hubs, the passenger side puked it's guts all over my wheel
:..( When I went to install the drivers side, I couldn't get the snap ring
in place. The splined part of the locking hub was 1/16th to 1/8th too far
out. On further inspection, I found the splined bit to be hitting on the
threaded end of the spindle. (i.e. everything was to far in.) I've talked
with the guy who has replaced all the parts to make sure he replaced the
spindle and he assured me he did. He told me where he got it, a fairly
reputable auto recycler in the area, and that he closely inspected,
including minute measurements, the part and it appeared to be the same, but
he changed it out anyway. I've exhausted any ideas I could think of and am
open to new ones. Got any?

Really I can't complain, even if the other three corners were to fall off
tomorrow, the price was right!

Thanks for you're time,

Dan

John Smith wrote:
> I recently was given an 89 F250 7.3L Deisel 4x4, many miles and ok condition
> make it little to no trade in value, hence the free nature. Back to my
> question. It was driven into a ditch while my brother-in-law was driving it
> to work early one morning, he fell asleep. The pickup was repaired at the
> body shop and they were supposed to have replaced that half of the, Dana 44
> IFS, axle. This is the drivers side, btw. Here's my problem. It tends to eat
> front wheel bearings on this side only. All parts have been replaced w/ new
> or used from a reputable auto recycler, short of the drive axle. The truck
> howls while going down the freeway, harder in a right hand turn, quieter in
> a left. Obviously the bearings are under a pretty hard preload. Two other
> observed problems. The spindle nut (?) that holds everything tight has a
> nasty habit of loosening itself. The other problem is I just bought some new
> Warn Premium Hubs, the passenger side puked it's guts all over my wheel
> :..( When I went to install the drivers side, I couldn't get the snap ring
> in place. The splined part of the locking hub was 1/16th to 1/8th too far
> out. On further inspection, I found the splined bit to be hitting on the
> threaded end of the spindle. (i.e. everything was to far in.) I've talked
> with the guy who has replaced all the parts to make sure he replaced the
> spindle and he assured me he did. He told me where he got it, a fairly
> reputable auto recycler in the area, and that he closely inspected,
> including minute measurements, the part and it appeared to be the same, but
> he changed it out anyway. I've exhausted any ideas I could think of and am
> open to new ones. Got any?
>
> Really I can't complain, even if the other three corners were to fall off
> tomorrow, the price was right!
>
> Thanks for you're time,
>
> Dan
>
>


The spindle nut, there should be 2 of them and the should be torque
together to lock the setting in place. I am guess that the bearing
preloaod is not correct and it is burning up the bearing. You need to
trplace all of the bearing and races and cleanout and repack hub and set
bearing so there is just a few thousnads of play in it AFTER to torqur
the second nut against the first one (also there should be a locking
ring that goes between the to nuts as well. Conact me through my site if
you need more help on this. Those 44 wheel bearings are prety tuff and
do not just wear out for no reason even on a badly aligned front end.

--

-----------------
www.thesnoman.com

I am going to guess the axle tube has been bent or pulled out slightly
right at the pumpkin.

That will eat bearings fast on a Dana 44 and it might explain the axle
now being too short.

It is a problem on the new Jeeps. They use a freakin aluminum housing
on the rear Dana 44 that will bend the tubes at the pumpkin just by
being jacked up using the pumpkin. Then they howl and eat bearings...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

John Smith wrote:
>
> I recently was given an 89 F250 7.3L Deisel 4x4, many miles and ok condition
> make it little to no trade in value, hence the free nature. Back to my
> question. It was driven into a ditch while my brother-in-law was driving it
> to work early one morning, he fell asleep. The pickup was repaired at the
> body shop and they were supposed to have replaced that half of the, Dana 44
> IFS, axle. This is the drivers side, btw. Here's my problem. It tends to eat
> front wheel bearings on this side only. All parts have been replaced w/ new
> or used from a reputable auto recycler, short of the drive axle. The truck
> howls while going down the freeway, harder in a right hand turn, quieter in
> a left. Obviously the bearings are under a pretty hard preload. Two other
> observed problems. The spindle nut (?) that holds everything tight has a
> nasty habit of loosening itself. The other problem is I just bought some new
> Warn Premium Hubs, the passenger side puked it's guts all over my wheel
> :..( When I went to install the drivers side, I couldn't get the snap ring
> in place. The splined part of the locking hub was 1/16th to 1/8th too far
> out. On further inspection, I found the splined bit to be hitting on the
> threaded end of the spindle. (i.e. everything was to far in.) I've talked
> with the guy who has replaced all the parts to make sure he replaced the
> spindle and he assured me he did. He told me where he got it, a fairly
> reputable auto recycler in the area, and that he closely inspected,
> including minute measurements, the part and it appeared to be the same, but
> he changed it out anyway. I've exhausted any ideas I could think of and am
> open to new ones. Got any?
>
> Really I can't complain, even if the other three corners were to fall off
> tomorrow, the price was right!
>
> Thanks for you're time,
>
> Dan

I guess I didn't mention: The bearings have been replaced numerous times,
because they keep getting chewed up. Familiar with the nut torqueing
thing( i.e. tighten them down to , I think, 75ft-lb. Then back off and
retighten to 65 (?). Don't remember the exact numbers. I have the axle nuts
with the little teeth on the one side (later model of this particular body.)

Thanks, though. I have not totally eleminated this as a source, but
Everything has been done to spec.....Several times. Even overtightened them
and left them that way last time, just to see what would happen. Don't know
yet, I'm going to check it this weekend.

Dan

"TheSnoMan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> John Smith wrote:
>> I recently was given an 89 F250 7.3L Deisel 4x4, many miles and ok
>> condition make it little to no trade in value, hence the free nature.
>> Back to my question. It was driven into a ditch while my brother-in-law
>> was driving it to work early one morning, he fell asleep. The pickup was
>> repaired at the body shop and they were supposed to have replaced that
>> half of the, Dana 44 IFS, axle. This is the drivers side, btw. Here's my
>> problem. It tends to eat front wheel bearings on this side only. All
>> parts have been replaced w/ new or used from a reputable auto recycler,
>> short of the drive axle. The truck howls while going down the freeway,
>> harder in a right hand turn, quieter in a left. Obviously the bearings
>> are under a pretty hard preload. Two other observed problems. The spindle
>> nut (?) that holds everything tight has a nasty habit of loosening
>> itself. The other problem is I just bought some new Warn Premium Hubs,
>> the passenger side puked it's guts all over my wheel :..( When I went to
>> install the drivers side, I couldn't get the snap ring in place. The
>> splined part of the locking hub was 1/16th to 1/8th too far out. On
>> further inspection, I found the splined bit to be hitting on the threaded
>> end of the spindle. (i.e. everything was to far in.) I've talked with the
>> guy who has replaced all the parts to make sure he replaced the spindle
>> and he assured me he did. He told me where he got it, a fairly reputable
>> auto recycler in the area, and that he closely inspected, including
>> minute measurements, the part and it appeared to be the same, but he
>> changed it out anyway. I've exhausted any ideas I could think of and am
>> open to new ones. Got any?
>>
>> Really I can't complain, even if the other three corners were to fall off
>> tomorrow, the price was right!
>>
>> Thanks for you're time,
>>
>> Dan
>
>
> The spindle nut, there should be 2 of them and the should be torque
> together to lock the setting in place. I am guess that the bearing
> preloaod is not correct and it is burning up the bearing. You need to
> trplace all of the bearing and races and cleanout and repack hub and set
> bearing so there is just a few thousnads of play in it AFTER to torqur the
> second nut against the first one (also there should be a locking ring that
> goes between the to nuts as well. Conact me through my site if you need
> more help on this. Those 44 wheel bearings are prety tuff and do not just
> wear out for no reason even on a badly aligned front end.
>
> --
>
> -----------------
> www.thesnoman.com

Though the tube was supposed to have been replaced, this sounds like the
most logical thing I've heard in all the places I've checked. I might just
have to replace the whole thing. This leads to another question I think I
will address in a new thread. Solid axle.

Dan


"Mike Romain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am going to guess the axle tube has been bent or pulled out slightly
> right at the pumpkin.
>
> That will eat bearings fast on a Dana 44 and it might explain the axle
> now being too short.
>
> It is a problem on the new Jeeps. They use a freakin aluminum housing
> on the rear Dana 44 that will bend the tubes at the pumpkin just by
> being jacked up using the pumpkin. Then they howl and eat bearings...
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> John Smith wrote:
>>
>> I recently was given an 89 F250 7.3L Deisel 4x4, many miles and ok
>> condition
>> make it little to no trade in value, hence the free nature. Back to my
>> question. It was driven into a ditch while my brother-in-law was driving
>> it
>> to work early one morning, he fell asleep. The pickup was repaired at the
>> body shop and they were supposed to have replaced that half of the, Dana
>> 44
>> IFS, axle. This is the drivers side, btw. Here's my problem. It tends to
>> eat
>> front wheel bearings on this side only. All parts have been replaced w/
>> new
>> or used from a reputable auto recycler, short of the drive axle. The
>> truck
>> howls while going down the freeway, harder in a right hand turn, quieter
>> in
>> a left. Obviously the bearings are under a pretty hard preload. Two other
>> observed problems. The spindle nut (?) that holds everything tight has a
>> nasty habit of loosening itself. The other problem is I just bought some
>> new
>> Warn Premium Hubs, the passenger side puked it's guts all over my wheel
>> :..( When I went to install the drivers side, I couldn't get the snap
>> ring
>> in place. The splined part of the locking hub was 1/16th to 1/8th too far
>> out. On further inspection, I found the splined bit to be hitting on the
>> threaded end of the spindle. (i.e. everything was to far in.) I've talked
>> with the guy who has replaced all the parts to make sure he replaced the
>> spindle and he assured me he did. He told me where he got it, a fairly
>> reputable auto recycler in the area, and that he closely inspected,
>> including minute measurements, the part and it appeared to be the same,
>> but
>> he changed it out anyway. I've exhausted any ideas I could think of and
>> am
>> open to new ones. Got any?
>>
>> Really I can't complain, even if the other three corners were to fall off
>> tomorrow, the price was right!
>>
>> Thanks for you're time,
>>
>> Dan

It is NOT the tube. I have been messing with Dana 30,44, 50 and 60 front
ends for over 30 years and even if the tube was pulling out a little, it
would not eat the bearings. If you are tighening bearing to 65ft, you
are over torquing them big time and burning them up plain and simple. As
I said earlier, the bearing are oversized for load and the only thing
that will kill them is lack of grease or over preloading them. You will
chew the tires off from misalignment before the bearings would give up
"IF" they are set up properly. Try this, torque them to 75 ftlbs to seat
the bearings and then back the nut off 1/4 turn then lock it down with
the other nut against it. When you are done the tire should spin freely
and if you try to check for endplay, there should be the very slightest
amount detectable in bearings.(if not back it of a little bit more and
be advised that when you torque the second nut against the first it
tighten the bearings more and that is why you back it off 1/4 turn for
starters) When the hub and bearings heat up and swell they will expand
and remove some end play so you want then the slightest bit loose cold.
Make no mistake, you are setting the bearing up incorrectly and that is
why they are failing. I found out the hard way about 30 years ago. Or
you could just keep chasing gremlins.

John Smith wrote:
> Though the tube was supposed to have been replaced, this sounds like the
> most logical thing I've heard in all the places I've checked. I might just
> have to replace the whole thing. This leads to another question I think I
> will address in a new thread. Solid axle.
>
> Dan
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I am going to guess the axle tube has been bent or pulled out slightly
>>right at the pumpkin.
>>
>>That will eat bearings fast on a Dana 44 and it might explain the axle
>>now being too short.
>>
>>It is a problem on the new Jeeps. They use a freakin aluminum housing
>>on the rear Dana 44 that will bend the tubes at the pumpkin just by
>>being jacked up using the pumpkin. Then they howl and eat bearings...
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>John Smith wrote:
>>
>>>I recently was given an 89 F250 7.3L Deisel 4x4, many miles and ok
>>>condition
>>>make it little to no trade in value, hence the free nature. Back to my
>>>question. It was driven into a ditch while my brother-in-law was driving
>>>it
>>>to work early one morning, he fell asleep. The pickup was repaired at the
>>>body shop and they were supposed to have replaced that half of the, Dana
>>>44
>>>IFS, axle. This is the drivers side, btw. Here's my problem. It tends to
>>>eat
>>>front wheel bearings on this side only. All parts have been replaced w/
>>>new
>>>or used from a reputable auto recycler, short of the drive axle. The
>>>truck
>>>howls while going down the freeway, harder in a right hand turn, quieter
>>>in
>>>a left. Obviously the bearings are under a pretty hard preload. Two other
>>>observed problems. The spindle nut (?) that holds everything tight has a
>>>nasty habit of loosening itself. The other problem is I just bought some
>>>new
>>>Warn Premium Hubs, the passenger side puked it's guts all over my wheel
>>>:..( When I went to install the drivers side, I couldn't get the snap
>>>ring
>>>in place. The splined part of the locking hub was 1/16th to 1/8th too far
>>>out. On further inspection, I found the splined bit to be hitting on the
>>>threaded end of the spindle. (i.e. everything was to far in.) I've talked
>>>with the guy who has replaced all the parts to make sure he replaced the
>>>spindle and he assured me he did. He told me where he got it, a fairly
>>>reputable auto recycler in the area, and that he closely inspected,
>>>including minute measurements, the part and it appeared to be the same,
>>>but
>>>he changed it out anyway. I've exhausted any ideas I could think of and
>>>am
>>>open to new ones. Got any?
>>>
>>>Really I can't complain, even if the other three corners were to fall off
>>>tomorrow, the price was right!
>>>
>>>Thanks for you're time,
>>>
>>>Dan
>
>
>


--

-----------------
www.thesnoman.com

I was pulling the torque numbers out of the air. I don't remember the actual
ft-lb. I consulted two manuals, one was a Haynes and the other a Chilton's
if memory serves correct, and they said the same for the ft-lb. So I don't
think that the torque of the nuts is my problem. Once again, this is a later
model, I had to go to the later model addendum in the back of the manual to
find the correct setup in both manuals, and does not have a jam nut. Only
the serrated nut. Just one tightening nut. This would also not answer the
other problems that must in some way be related. It all became a problem at
the same time...the accident. Don't know they are for sure. I just know
everything was adjusted according to spec (i. e. two sources that gave
essentially the same information.) My Brother-in-law's friend also rebuilt
the front end with the same end results, so I don't believe the fault is an
operator error.

Dan


"TheSnoMan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> It is NOT the tube. I have been messing with Dana 30,44, 50 and 60 front
> ends for over 30 years and even if the tube was pulling out a little, it
> would not eat the bearings. If you are tighening bearing to 65ft, you are
> over torquing them big time and burning them up plain and simple. As I
> said earlier, the bearing are oversized for load and the only thing that
> will kill them is lack of grease or over preloading them. You will chew
> the tires off from misalignment before the bearings would give up "IF"
> they are set up properly. Try this, torque them to 75 ftlbs to seat the
> bearings and then back the nut off 1/4 turn then lock it down with the
> other nut against it. When you are done the tire should spin freely and if
> you try to check for endplay, there should be the very slightest amount
> detectable in bearings.(if not back it of a little bit more and be advised
> that when you torque the second nut against the first it tighten the
> bearings more and that is why you back it off 1/4 turn for starters) When
> the hub and bearings heat up and swell they will expand and remove some
> end play so you want then the slightest bit loose cold. Make no mistake,
> you are setting the bearing up incorrectly and that is why they are
> failing. I found out the hard way about 30 years ago. Or you could just
> keep chasing gremlins.
>
> John Smith wrote:
>> Though the tube was supposed to have been replaced, this sounds like the
>> most logical thing I've heard in all the places I've checked. I might
>> just have to replace the whole thing. This leads to another question I
>> think I will address in a new thread. Solid axle.
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>I am going to guess the axle tube has been bent or pulled out slightly
>>>right at the pumpkin.
>>>
>>>That will eat bearings fast on a Dana 44 and it might explain the axle
>>>now being too short.
>>>
>>>It is a problem on the new Jeeps. They use a freakin aluminum housing
>>>on the rear Dana 44 that will bend the tubes at the pumpkin just by
>>>being jacked up using the pumpkin. Then they howl and eat bearings...
>>>
>>>Mike
>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>>John Smith wrote:
>>>
>>>>I recently was given an 89 F250 7.3L Deisel 4x4, many miles and ok
>>>>condition
>>>>make it little to no trade in value, hence the free nature. Back to my
>>>>question. It was driven into a ditch while my brother-in-law was driving
>>>>it
>>>>to work early one morning, he fell asleep. The pickup was repaired at
>>>>the
>>>>body shop and they were supposed to have replaced that half of the, Dana
>>>>44
>>>>IFS, axle. This is the drivers side, btw. Here's my problem. It tends to
>>>>eat
>>>>front wheel bearings on this side only. All parts have been replaced w/
>>>>new
>>>>or used from a reputable auto recycler, short of the drive axle. The
>>>>truck
>>>>howls while going down the freeway, harder in a right hand turn, quieter
>>>>in
>>>>a left. Obviously the bearings are under a pretty hard preload. Two
>>>>other
>>>>observed problems. The spindle nut (?) that holds everything tight has a
>>>>nasty habit of loosening itself. The other problem is I just bought some
>>>>new
>>>>Warn Premium Hubs, the passenger side puked it's guts all over my wheel
>>>>:..( When I went to install the drivers side, I couldn't get the snap
>>>>ring
>>>>in place. The splined part of the locking hub was 1/16th to 1/8th too
>>>>far
>>>>out. On further inspection, I found the splined bit to be hitting on the
>>>>threaded end of the spindle. (i.e. everything was to far in.) I've
>>>>talked
>>>>with the guy who has replaced all the parts to make sure he replaced the
>>>>spindle and he assured me he did. He told me where he got it, a fairly
>>>>reputable auto recycler in the area, and that he closely inspected,
>>>>including minute measurements, the part and it appeared to be the same,
>>>>but
>>>>he changed it out anyway. I've exhausted any ideas I could think of and
>>>>am
>>>>open to new ones. Got any?
>>>>
>>>>Really I can't complain, even if the other three corners were to fall
>>>>off
>>>>tomorrow, the price was right!
>>>>
>>>>Thanks for you're time,
>>>>
>>>>Dan
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
> -----------------
> www.thesnoman.com

Question for you.

You state the nut keeps coming off. If there is no jam nut, what is
supposed to hold it on?

Is it a castle nut with a cotter pin?

How about the other side. What holds that nut on?

Something isn't right if the axle is too short.

Could you have a bastard front end? 1/2 D44 and 1/2 D50?

Mike

John Smith wrote:
>
> I was pulling the torque numbers out of the air. I don't remember the actual
> ft-lb. I consulted two manuals, one was a Haynes and the other a Chilton's
> if memory serves correct, and they said the same for the ft-lb. So I don't
> think that the torque of the nuts is my problem. Once again, this is a later
> model, I had to go to the later model addendum in the back of the manual to
> find the correct setup in both manuals, and does not have a jam nut. Only
> the serrated nut. Just one tightening nut. This would also not answer the
> other problems that must in some way be related. It all became a problem at
> the same time...the accident. Don't know they are for sure. I just know
> everything was adjusted according to spec (i. e. two sources that gave
> essentially the same information.) My Brother-in-law's friend also rebuilt
> the front end with the same end results, so I don't believe the fault is an
> operator error.
>
> Dan
>
> "TheSnoMan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> >
> > It is NOT the tube. I have been messing with Dana 30,44, 50 and 60 front
> > ends for over 30 years and even if the tube was pulling out a little, it
> > would not eat the bearings. If you are tighening bearing to 65ft, you are
> > over torquing them big time and burning them up plain and simple. As I
> > said earlier, the bearing are oversized for load and the only thing that
> > will kill them is lack of grease or over preloading them. You will chew
> > the tires off from misalignment before the bearings would give up "IF"
> > they are set up properly. Try this, torque them to 75 ftlbs to seat the
> > bearings and then back the nut off 1/4 turn then lock it down with the
> > other nut against it. When you are done the tire should spin freely and if
> > you try to check for endplay, there should be the very slightest amount
> > detectable in bearings.(if not back it of a little bit more and be advised
> > that when you torque the second nut against the first it tighten the
> > bearings more and that is why you back it off 1/4 turn for starters) When
> > the hub and bearings heat up and swell they will expand and remove some
> > end play so you want then the slightest bit loose cold. Make no mistake,
> > you are setting the bearing up incorrectly and that is why they are
> > failing. I found out the hard way about 30 years ago. Or you could just
> > keep chasing gremlins.
> >
> > John Smith wrote:
> >> Though the tube was supposed to have been replaced, this sounds like the
> >> most logical thing I've heard in all the places I've checked. I might
> >> just have to replace the whole thing. This leads to another question I
> >> think I will address in a new thread. Solid axle.
> >>
> >> Dan
> >>
> >>
> >> "Mike Romain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >>>I am going to guess the axle tube has been bent or pulled out slightly
> >>>right at the pumpkin.
> >>>
> >>>That will eat bearings fast on a Dana 44 and it might explain the axle
> >>>now being too short.
> >>>
> >>>It is a problem on the new Jeeps. They use a freakin aluminum housing
> >>>on the rear Dana 44 that will bend the tubes at the pumpkin just by
> >>>being jacked up using the pumpkin. Then they howl and eat bearings...
> >>>
> >>>Mike
> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
> >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>
> >>>John Smith wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>I recently was given an 89 F250 7.3L Deisel 4x4, many miles and ok
> >>>>condition
> >>>>make it little to no trade in value, hence the free nature. Back to my
> >>>>question. It was driven into a ditch while my brother-in-law was driving
> >>>>it
> >>>>to work early one morning, he fell asleep. The pickup was repaired at
> >>>>the
> >>>>body shop and they were supposed to have replaced that half of the, Dana
> >>>>44
> >>>>IFS, axle. This is the drivers side, btw. Here's my problem. It tends to
> >>>>eat
> >>>>front wheel bearings on this side only. All parts have been replaced w/
> >>>>new
> >>>>or used from a reputable auto recycler, short of the drive axle. The
> >>>>truck
> >>>>howls while going down the freeway, harder in a right hand turn, quieter
> >>>>in
> >>>>a left. Obviously the bearings are under a pretty hard preload. Two
> >>>>other
> >>>>observed problems. The spindle nut (?) that holds everything tight has a
> >>>>nasty habit of loosening itself. The other problem is I just bought some
> >>>>new
> >>>>Warn Premium Hubs, the passenger side puked it's guts all over my wheel
> >>>>:..( When I went to install the drivers side, I couldn't get the snap
> >>>>ring
> >>>>in place. The splined part of the locking hub was 1/16th to 1/8th too
> >>>>far
> >>>>out. On further inspection, I found the splined bit to be hitting on the
> >>>>threaded end of the spindle. (i.e. everything was to far in.) I've
> >>>>talked
> >>>>with the guy who has replaced all the parts to make sure he replaced the
> >>>>spindle and he assured me he did. He told me where he got it, a fairly
> >>>>reputable auto recycler in the area, and that he closely inspected,
> >>>>including minute measurements, the part and it appeared to be the same,
> >>>>but
> >>>>he changed it out anyway. I've exhausted any ideas I could think of and
> >>>>am
> >>>>open to new ones. Got any?
> >>>>
> >>>>Really I can't complain, even if the other three corners were to fall
> >>>>off
> >>>>tomorrow, the price was right!
> >>>>
> >>>>Thanks for you're time,
> >>>>
> >>>>Dan
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > -----------------
> > www.thesnoman.com

Mike Romain wrote:
> Question for you.
>
> You state the nut keeps coming off. If there is no jam nut, what is
> supposed to hold it on?
>
> Is it a castle nut with a cotter pin?
>
> How about the other side. What holds that nut on?
>
> Something isn't right if the axle is too short.
>
> Could you have a bastard front end? 1/2 D44 and 1/2 D50?
>
> Mike
>
> John Smith wrote:
>
>>I was pulling the torque numbers out of the air. I don't remember the actual
>>ft-lb. I consulted two manuals, one was a Haynes and the other a Chilton's
>>if memory serves correct, and they said the same for the ft-lb. So I don't
>>think that the torque of the nuts is my problem. Once again, this is a later
>>model, I had to go to the later model addendum in the back of the manual to
>>find the correct setup in both manuals, and does not have a jam nut. Only
>>the serrated nut. Just one tightening nut. This would also not answer the
>>other problems that must in some way be related. It all became a problem at
>>the same time...the accident. Don't know they are for sure. I just know
>>everything was adjusted according to spec (i. e. two sources that gave
>>essentially the same information.) My Brother-in-law's friend also rebuilt
>>the front end with the same end results, so I don't believe the fault is an
>>operator error.
>>
>>Dan
>>
>>"TheSnoMan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>
>>>It is NOT the tube. I have been messing with Dana 30,44, 50 and 60 front
>>>ends for over 30 years and even if the tube was pulling out a little, it
>>>would not eat the bearings. If you are tighening bearing to 65ft, you are
>>>over torquing them big time and burning them up plain and simple. As I
>>>said earlier, the bearing are oversized for load and the only thing that
>>>will kill them is lack of grease or over preloading them. You will chew
>>>the tires off from misalignment before the bearings would give up "IF"
>>>they are set up properly. Try this, torque them to 75 ftlbs to seat the
>>>bearings and then back the nut off 1/4 turn then lock it down with the
>>>other nut against it. When you are done the tire should spin freely and if
>>>you try to check for endplay, there should be the very slightest amount
>>>detectable in bearings.(if not back it of a little bit more and be advised
>>>that when you torque the second nut against the first it tighten the
>>>bearings more and that is why you back it off 1/4 turn for starters) When
>>>the hub and bearings heat up and swell they will expand and remove some
>>>end play so you want then the slightest bit loose cold. Make no mistake,
>>>you are setting the bearing up incorrectly and that is why they are
>>>failing. I found out the hard way about 30 years ago. Or you could just
>>>keep chasing gremlins.
>>>
>>>John Smith wrote:
>>>
>>>>Though the tube was supposed to have been replaced, this sounds like the
>>>>most logical thing I've heard in all the places I've checked. I might
>>>>just have to replace the whole thing. This leads to another question I
>>>>think I will address in a new thread. Solid axle.
>>>>
>>>>Dan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>"Mike Romain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I am going to guess the axle tube has been bent or pulled out slightly
>>>>>right at the pumpkin.
>>>>>
>>>>>That will eat bearings fast on a Dana 44 and it might explain the axle
>>>>>now being too short.
>>>>>
>>>>>It is a problem on the new Jeeps. They use a freakin aluminum housing
>>>>>on the rear Dana 44 that will bend the tubes at the pumpkin just by
>>>>>being jacked up using the pumpkin. Then they howl and eat bearings...
>>>>>
>>>>>Mike
>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
>>>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>
>>>>>John Smith wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>I recently was given an 89 F250 7.3L Deisel 4x4, many miles and ok
>>>>>>condition
>>>>>>make it little to no trade in value, hence the free nature. Back to my
>>>>>>question. It was driven into a ditch while my brother-in-law was driving
>>>>>>it
>>>>>>to work early one morning, he fell asleep. The pickup was repaired at
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>body shop and they were supposed to have replaced that half of the, Dana
>>>>>>44
>>>>>>IFS, axle. This is the drivers side, btw. Here's my problem. It tends to
>>>>>>eat
>>>>>>front wheel bearings on this side only. All parts have been replaced w/
>>>>>>new
>>>>>>or used from a reputable auto recycler, short of the drive axle. The
>>>>>>truck
>>>>>>howls while going down the freeway, harder in a right hand turn, quieter
>>>>>>in
>>>>>>a left. Obviously the bearings are under a pretty hard preload. Two
>>>>>>other
>>>>>>observed problems. The spindle nut (?) that holds everything tight has a
>>>>>>nasty habit of loosening itself. The other problem is I just bought some
>>>>>>new
>>>>>>Warn Premium Hubs, the passenger side puked it's guts all over my wheel
>>>>>>:..( When I went to install the drivers side, I couldn't get the snap
>>>>>>ring
>>>>>>in place. The splined part of the locking hub was 1/16th to 1/8th too
>>>>>>far
>>>>>>out. On further inspection, I found the splined bit to be hitting on the
>>>>>>threaded end of the spindle. (i.e. everything was to far in.) I've
>>>>>>talked
>>>>>>with the guy who has replaced all the parts to make sure he replaced the
>>>>>>spindle and he assured me he did. He told me where he got it, a fairly
>>>>>>reputable auto recycler in the area, and that he closely inspected,
>>>>>>including minute measurements, the part and it appeared to be the same,
>>>>>>but
>>>>>>he changed it out anyway. I've exhausted any ideas I could think of and
>>>>>>am
>>>>>>open to new ones. Got any?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Really I can't complain, even if the other three corners were to fall
>>>>>>off
>>>>>>tomorrow, the price was right!
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Thanks for you're time,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Dan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>--
>>>
>>>-----------------
>>>www.thesnoman.com


You cannot have a cotter key with a live front solid front axle. You
have two nuts locked together with a lock ring between them too. Also
you MUST NOT over preload bearing because if you do, it will fail.

--

-----------------
www.thesnoman.com

Thanks for responding Mike. The axle is most definately a Dana 44 IFS. I
have been trying to politely tell TheSnoMan it is a Dana 44 IFS, but now I
feel I need to quote the Haynes manual chapter and verse (sorry, I don't
have the Chilton's handy for quoting.). This is from the Haynes "Ford Pickup
and Bronco Automotive Repair Manual - 1980-1991 - 2wd and 4wd......" Chapter
13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models. Page 326

"FRONT WHEEL BEARING (4x4) - ADJUSTMENT

Beginning in 1989, Broncos and F-150's and F-250's with Dana 44IFS driving
axles and manual locking hubs have a different front wheel bearing
adjustment procedure."

It then goes on to explain how to adjust the axle nut (singular) on this
particular setup. It is most definately the factory axle in this pickup. It
is also most definately, according to Haynes, a Dana 44IFS. The pictures
compared to my parts don't lie. Sorry, guys I hate to tell somebody they are
wrong after asking for advice. I just want to make sure we all are on the
same page and understand what it is going on.

The hub nut kinda has teeth on one side that are intended to bite in and
keep the nut locked in place. You see the same idea on locknuts for bolts.
They have the washer built into the base of the nut with serrations on the
flat.

I don't think it is so much the axle is too short, as much as it is
everything is riding too far in on the spindle. That is what my manual hub
is hitting against...the end of the spindle. I asked this question wondering
if anyone had seen a case where the entire hub assembly was riding a 1/16th
to an 1/8th too far inboard and how they corrected it.

Once again, I really do apreciate people taking the time to read my post and
help me brainstorm solutions. I really didn't mean to start an arguement
about what kind of axle is in the front of a 1989 F-250.

Dan


"Mike Romain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Question for you.
>
> You state the nut keeps coming off. If there is no jam nut, what is
> supposed to hold it on?
>
> Is it a castle nut with a cotter pin?
>
> How about the other side. What holds that nut on?
>
> Something isn't right if the axle is too short.
>
> Could you have a bastard front end? 1/2 D44 and 1/2 D50?
>
> Mike
>
> John Smith wrote:
>>
>> I was pulling the torque numbers out of the air. I don't remember the
>> actual
>> ft-lb. I consulted two manuals, one was a Haynes and the other a
>> Chilton's
>> if memory serves correct, and they said the same for the ft-lb. So I
>> don't
>> think that the torque of the nuts is my problem. Once again, this is a
>> later
>> model, I had to go to the later model addendum in the back of the manual
>> to
>> find the correct setup in both manuals, and does not have a jam nut. Only
>> the serrated nut. Just one tightening nut. This would also not answer the
>> other problems that must in some way be related. It all became a problem
>> at
>> the same time...the accident. Don't know they are for sure. I just know
>> everything was adjusted according to spec (i. e. two sources that gave
>> essentially the same information.) My Brother-in-law's friend also
>> rebuilt
>> the front end with the same end results, so I don't believe the fault is
>> an
>> operator error.
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> "TheSnoMan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> >
>> >
>> > It is NOT the tube. I have been messing with Dana 30,44, 50 and 60
>> > front
>> > ends for over 30 years and even if the tube was pulling out a little,
>> > it
>> > would not eat the bearings. If you are tighening bearing to 65ft, you
>> > are
>> > over torquing them big time and burning them up plain and simple. As I
>> > said earlier, the bearing are oversized for load and the only thing
>> > that
>> > will kill them is lack of grease or over preloading them. You will chew
>> > the tires off from misalignment before the bearings would give up "IF"
>> > they are set up properly. Try this, torque them to 75 ftlbs to seat the
>> > bearings and then back the nut off 1/4 turn then lock it down with the
>> > other nut against it. When you are done the tire should spin freely and
>> > if
>> > you try to check for endplay, there should be the very slightest amount
>> > detectable in bearings.(if not back it of a little bit more and be
>> > advised
>> > that when you torque the second nut against the first it tighten the
>> > bearings more and that is why you back it off 1/4 turn for starters)
>> > When
>> > the hub and bearings heat up and swell they will expand and remove some
>> > end play so you want then the slightest bit loose cold. Make no
>> > mistake,
>> > you are setting the bearing up incorrectly and that is why they are
>> > failing. I found out the hard way about 30 years ago. Or you could just
>> > keep chasing gremlins.
>> >
>> > John Smith wrote:
>> >> Though the tube was supposed to have been replaced, this sounds like
>> >> the
>> >> most logical thing I've heard in all the places I've checked. I might
>> >> just have to replace the whole thing. This leads to another question I
>> >> think I will address in a new thread. Solid axle.
>> >>
>> >> Dan
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> "Mike Romain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> >> news:[email protected]...
>> >>
>> >>>I am going to guess the axle tube has been bent or pulled out slightly
>> >>>right at the pumpkin.
>> >>>
>> >>>That will eat bearings fast on a Dana 44 and it might explain the axle
>> >>>now being too short.
>> >>>
>> >>>It is a problem on the new Jeeps. They use a freakin aluminum housing
>> >>>on the rear Dana 44 that will bend the tubes at the pumpkin just by
>> >>>being jacked up using the pumpkin. Then they howl and eat bearings...
>> >>>
>> >>>Mike
>> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> >>>Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
>> >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>> >>>
>> >>>John Smith wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>>>I recently was given an 89 F250 7.3L Deisel 4x4, many miles and ok
>> >>>>condition
>> >>>>make it little to no trade in value, hence the free nature. Back to
>> >>>>my
>> >>>>question. It was driven into a ditch while my brother-in-law was
>> >>>>driving
>> >>>>it
>> >>>>to work early one morning, he fell asleep. The pickup was repaired at
>> >>>>the
>> >>>>body shop and they were supposed to have replaced that half of the,
>> >>>>Dana
>> >>>>44
>> >>>>IFS, axle. This is the drivers side, btw. Here's my problem. It tends
>> >>>>to
>> >>>>eat
>> >>>>front wheel bearings on this side only. All parts have been replaced
>> >>>>w/
>> >>>>new
>> >>>>or used from a reputable auto recycler, short of the drive axle. The
>> >>>>truck
>> >>>>howls while going down the freeway, harder in a right hand turn,
>> >>>>quieter
>> >>>>in
>> >>>>a left. Obviously the bearings are under a pretty hard preload. Two
>> >>>>other
>> >>>>observed problems. The spindle nut (?) that holds everything tight
>> >>>>has a
>> >>>>nasty habit of loosening itself. The other problem is I just bought
>> >>>>some
>> >>>>new
>> >>>>Warn Premium Hubs, the passenger side puked it's guts all over my
>> >>>>wheel
>> >>>>:..( When I went to install the drivers side, I couldn't get the
>> >>>>snap
>> >>>>ring
>> >>>>in place. The splined part of the locking hub was 1/16th to 1/8th too
>> >>>>far
>> >>>>out. On further inspection, I found the splined bit to be hitting on
>> >>>>the
>> >>>>threaded end of the spindle. (i.e. everything was to far in.) I've
>> >>>>talked
>> >>>>with the guy who has replaced all the parts to make sure he replaced
>> >>>>the
>> >>>>spindle and he assured me he did. He told me where he got it, a
>> >>>>fairly
>> >>>>reputable auto recycler in the area, and that he closely inspected,
>> >>>>including minute measurements, the part and it appeared to be the
>> >>>>same,
>> >>>>but
>> >>>>he changed it out anyway. I've exhausted any ideas I could think of
>> >>>>and
>> >>>>am
>> >>>>open to new ones. Got any?
>> >>>>
>> >>>>Really I can't complain, even if the other three corners were to fall
>> >>>>off
>> >>>>tomorrow, the price was right!
>> >>>>
>> >>>>Thanks for you're time,
>> >>>>
>> >>>>Dan
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> >
>> > -----------------
>> > www.thesnoman.com

It does not matter if it is a 44 or a 50, the setup is the same and the
differences are minimal. (D50 IFS looks like a D44 at a glance) That is
not the issue though (it was a info thing) You must have 2 nuts in there
on one and the locking collar or tab goes between them. My guess is that
the bearing that is burning up is on passanger side and that would tend
to tightend the nut driving down the road and burn up the bearing. One
nut with a locking tab will not do it.

John Smith wrote:
> Thanks for responding Mike. The axle is most definately a Dana 44 IFS. I
> have been trying to politely tell TheSnoMan it is a Dana 44 IFS, but now I
> feel I need to quote the Haynes manual chapter and verse (sorry, I don't
> have the Chilton's handy for quoting.). This is from the Haynes "Ford Pickup
> and Bronco Automotive Repair Manual - 1980-1991 - 2wd and 4wd......" Chapter
> 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models. Page 326
>
> "FRONT WHEEL BEARING (4x4) - ADJUSTMENT
>
> Beginning in 1989, Broncos and F-150's and F-250's with Dana 44IFS driving
> axles and manual locking hubs have a different front wheel bearing
> adjustment procedure."
>
> It then goes on to explain how to adjust the axle nut (singular) on this
> particular setup. It is most definately the factory axle in this pickup. It
> is also most definately, according to Haynes, a Dana 44IFS. The pictures
> compared to my parts don't lie. Sorry, guys I hate to tell somebody they are
> wrong after asking for advice. I just want to make sure we all are on the
> same page and understand what it is going on.
>
> The hub nut kinda has teeth on one side that are intended to bite in and
> keep the nut locked in place. You see the same idea on locknuts for bolts.
> They have the washer built into the base of the nut with serrations on the
> flat.
>
> I don't think it is so much the axle is too short, as much as it is
> everything is riding too far in on the spindle. That is what my manual hub
> is hitting against...the end of the spindle. I asked this question wondering
> if anyone had seen a case where the entire hub assembly was riding a 1/16th
> to an 1/8th too far inboard and how they corrected it.
>
> Once again, I really do apreciate people taking the time to read my post and
> help me brainstorm solutions. I really didn't mean to start an arguement
> about what kind of axle is in the front of a 1989 F-250.
>
> Dan
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Question for you.
>>
>>You state the nut keeps coming off. If there is no jam nut, what is
>>supposed to hold it on?
>>
>>Is it a castle nut with a cotter pin?
>>
>>How about the other side. What holds that nut on?
>>
>>Something isn't right if the axle is too short.
>>
>>Could you have a bastard front end? 1/2 D44 and 1/2 D50?
>>
>>Mike
>>
>>John Smith wrote:
>>
>>>I was pulling the torque numbers out of the air. I don't remember the
>>>actual
>>>ft-lb. I consulted two manuals, one was a Haynes and the other a
>>>Chilton's
>>>if memory serves correct, and they said the same for the ft-lb. So I
>>>don't
>>>think that the torque of the nuts is my problem. Once again, this is a
>>>later
>>>model, I had to go to the later model addendum in the back of the manual
>>>to
>>>find the correct setup in both manuals, and does not have a jam nut. Only
>>>the serrated nut. Just one tightening nut. This would also not answer the
>>>other problems that must in some way be related. It all became a problem
>>>at
>>>the same time...the accident. Don't know they are for sure. I just know
>>>everything was adjusted according to spec (i. e. two sources that gave
>>>essentially the same information.) My Brother-in-law's friend also
>>>rebuilt
>>>the front end with the same end results, so I don't believe the fault is
>>>an
>>>operator error.
>>>
>>>Dan
>>>
>>>"TheSnoMan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>>
>>>>It is NOT the tube. I have been messing with Dana 30,44, 50 and 60
>>>>front
>>>>ends for over 30 years and even if the tube was pulling out a little,
>>>>it
>>>>would not eat the bearings. If you are tighening bearing to 65ft, you
>>>>are
>>>>over torquing them big time and burning them up plain and simple. As I
>>>>said earlier, the bearing are oversized for load and the only thing
>>>>that
>>>>will kill them is lack of grease or over preloading them. You will chew
>>>>the tires off from misalignment before the bearings would give up "IF"
>>>>they are set up properly. Try this, torque them to 75 ftlbs to seat the
>>>>bearings and then back the nut off 1/4 turn then lock it down with the
>>>>other nut against it. When you are done the tire should spin freely and
>>>>if
>>>>you try to check for endplay, there should be the very slightest amount
>>>>detectable in bearings.(if not back it of a little bit more and be
>>>>advised
>>>>that when you torque the second nut against the first it tighten the
>>>>bearings more and that is why you back it off 1/4 turn for starters)
>>>>When
>>>>the hub and bearings heat up and swell they will expand and remove some
>>>>end play so you want then the slightest bit loose cold. Make no
>>>>mistake,
>>>>you are setting the bearing up incorrectly and that is why they are
>>>>failing. I found out the hard way about 30 years ago. Or you could just
>>>>keep chasing gremlins.
>>>>
>>>>John Smith wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Though the tube was supposed to have been replaced, this sounds like
>>>>>the
>>>>>most logical thing I've heard in all the places I've checked. I might
>>>>>just have to replace the whole thing. This leads to another question I
>>>>>think I will address in a new thread. Solid axle.
>>>>>
>>>>>Dan
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>"Mike Romain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>I am going to guess the axle tube has been bent or pulled out slightly
>>>>>>right at the pumpkin.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>That will eat bearings fast on a Dana 44 and it might explain the axle
>>>>>>now being too short.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>It is a problem on the new Jeeps. They use a freakin aluminum housing
>>>>>>on the rear Dana 44 that will bend the tubes at the pumpkin just by
>>>>>>being jacked up using the pumpkin. Then they howl and eat bearings...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Mike
>>>>>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>>Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
>>>>>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>John Smith wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I recently was given an 89 F250 7.3L Deisel 4x4, many miles and ok
>>>>>>>condition
>>>>>>>make it little to no trade in value, hence the free nature. Back to
>>>>>>>my
>>>>>>>question. It was driven into a ditch while my brother-in-law was
>>>>>>>driving
>>>>>>>it
>>>>>>>to work early one morning, he fell asleep. The pickup was repaired at
>>>>>>>the
>>>>>>>body shop and they were supposed to have replaced that half of the,
>>>>>>>Dana
>>>>>>>44
>>>>>>>IFS, axle. This is the drivers side, btw. Here's my problem. It tends
>>>>>>>to
>>>>>>>eat
>>>>>>>front wheel bearings on this side only. All parts have been replaced
>>>>>>>w/
>>>>>>>new
>>>>>>>or used from a reputable auto recycler, short of the drive axle. The
>>>>>>>truck
>>>>>>>howls while going down the freeway, harder in a right hand turn,
>>>>>>>quieter
>>>>>>>in
>>>>>>>a left. Obviously the bearings are under a pretty hard preload. Two
>>>>>>>other
>>>>>>>observed problems. The spindle nut (?) that holds everything tight
>>>>>>>has a
>>>>>>>nasty habit of loosening itself. The other problem is I just bought
>>>>>>>some
>>>>>>>new
>>>>>>>Warn Premium Hubs, the passenger side puked it's guts all over my
>>>>>>>wheel
>>>>>>>:..( When I went to install the drivers side, I couldn't get the
>>>>>>>snap
>>>>>>>ring
>>>>>>>in place. The splined part of the locking hub was 1/16th to 1/8th too
>>>>>>>far
>>>>>>>out. On further inspection, I found the splined bit to be hitting on
>>>>>>>the
>>>>>>>threaded end of the spindle. (i.e. everything was to far in.) I've
>>>>>>>talked
>>>>>>>with the guy who has replaced all the parts to make sure he replaced
>>>>>>>the
>>>>>>>spindle and he assured me he did. He told me where he got it, a
>>>>>>>fairly
>>>>>>>reputable auto recycler in the area, and that he closely inspected,
>>>>>>>including minute measurements, the part and it appeared to be the
>>>>>>>same,
>>>>>>>but
>>>>>>>he changed it out anyway. I've exhausted any ideas I could think of
>>>>>>>and
>>>>>>>am
>>>>>>>open to new ones. Got any?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Really I can't complain, even if the other three corners were to fall
>>>>>>>off
>>>>>>>tomorrow, the price was right!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Thanks for you're time,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Dan
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>--
>>>>
>>>>-----------------
>>>>www.thesnoman.com
>
>
>


--

-----------------
www.thesnoman.com

I was curious so I looked in Google and couldn't find anyone only
selling one D44 spindle nut, they all came in pairs....

I can't remember ever seeing an axle nut that didn't use a cotter pin or
on a live axle, a jam nut.

That aside, yes I have seen a hub sit in too far. It was a Dana 30 and
the wheel bearings and race had worn down enough that the hub was out of
place. The bearings 'looked' ok, they were just too small....

So I would guess your bearings are cooked or the wrong ones.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

John Smith wrote:
>
> Thanks for responding Mike. The axle is most definately a Dana 44 IFS. I
> have been trying to politely tell TheSnoMan it is a Dana 44 IFS, but now I
> feel I need to quote the Haynes manual chapter and verse (sorry, I don't
> have the Chilton's handy for quoting.). This is from the Haynes "Ford Pickup
> and Bronco Automotive Repair Manual - 1980-1991 - 2wd and 4wd......" Chapter
> 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models. Page 326
>
> "FRONT WHEEL BEARING (4x4) - ADJUSTMENT
>
> Beginning in 1989, Broncos and F-150's and F-250's with Dana 44IFS driving
> axles and manual locking hubs have a different front wheel bearing
> adjustment procedure."
>
> It then goes on to explain how to adjust the axle nut (singular) on this
> particular setup. It is most definately the factory axle in this pickup. It
> is also most definately, according to Haynes, a Dana 44IFS. The pictures
> compared to my parts don't lie. Sorry, guys I hate to tell somebody they are
> wrong after asking for advice. I just want to make sure we all are on the
> same page and understand what it is going on.
>
> The hub nut kinda has teeth on one side that are intended to bite in and
> keep the nut locked in place. You see the same idea on locknuts for bolts.
> They have the washer built into the base of the nut with serrations on the
> flat.
>
> I don't think it is so much the axle is too short, as much as it is
> everything is riding too far in on the spindle. That is what my manual hub
> is hitting against...the end of the spindle. I asked this question wondering
> if anyone had seen a case where the entire hub assembly was riding a 1/16th
> to an 1/8th too far inboard and how they corrected it.
>
> Once again, I really do apreciate people taking the time to read my post and
> help me brainstorm solutions. I really didn't mean to start an arguement
> about what kind of axle is in the front of a 1989 F-250.
>
> Dan
>
> "Mike Romain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Question for you.
> >
> > You state the nut keeps coming off. If there is no jam nut, what is
> > supposed to hold it on?
> >
> > Is it a castle nut with a cotter pin?
> >
> > How about the other side. What holds that nut on?
> >
> > Something isn't right if the axle is too short.
> >
> > Could you have a bastard front end? 1/2 D44 and 1/2 D50?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > John Smith wrote:
> >>
> >> I was pulling the torque numbers out of the air. I don't remember the
> >> actual
> >> ft-lb. I consulted two manuals, one was a Haynes and the other a
> >> Chilton's
> >> if memory serves correct, and they said the same for the ft-lb. So I
> >> don't
> >> think that the torque of the nuts is my problem. Once again, this is a
> >> later
> >> model, I had to go to the later model addendum in the back of the manual
> >> to
> >> find the correct setup in both manuals, and does not have a jam nut. Only
> >> the serrated nut. Just one tightening nut. This would also not answer the
> >> other problems that must in some way be related. It all became a problem
> >> at
> >> the same time...the accident. Don't know they are for sure. I just know
> >> everything was adjusted according to spec (i. e. two sources that gave
> >> essentially the same information.) My Brother-in-law's friend also
> >> rebuilt
> >> the front end with the same end results, so I don't believe the fault is
> >> an
> >> operator error.
> >>
> >> Dan
> >>
> >> "TheSnoMan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > It is NOT the tube. I have been messing with Dana 30,44, 50 and 60
> >> > front
> >> > ends for over 30 years and even if the tube was pulling out a little,
> >> > it
> >> > would not eat the bearings. If you are tighening bearing to 65ft, you
> >> > are
> >> > over torquing them big time and burning them up plain and simple. As I
> >> > said earlier, the bearing are oversized for load and the only thing
> >> > that
> >> > will kill them is lack of grease or over preloading them. You will chew
> >> > the tires off from misalignment before the bearings would give up "IF"
> >> > they are set up properly. Try this, torque them to 75 ftlbs to seat the
> >> > bearings and then back the nut off 1/4 turn then lock it down with the
> >> > other nut against it. When you are done the tire should spin freely and
> >> > if
> >> > you try to check for endplay, there should be the very slightest amount
> >> > detectable in bearings.(if not back it of a little bit more and be
> >> > advised
> >> > that when you torque the second nut against the first it tighten the
> >> > bearings more and that is why you back it off 1/4 turn for starters)
> >> > When
> >> > the hub and bearings heat up and swell they will expand and remove some
> >> > end play so you want then the slightest bit loose cold. Make no
> >> > mistake,
> >> > you are setting the bearing up incorrectly and that is why they are
> >> > failing. I found out the hard way about 30 years ago. Or you could just
> >> > keep chasing gremlins.
> >> >
> >> > John Smith wrote:
> >> >> Though the tube was supposed to have been replaced, this sounds like
> >> >> the
> >> >> most logical thing I've heard in all the places I've checked. I might
> >> >> just have to replace the whole thing. This leads to another question I
> >> >> think I will address in a new thread. Solid axle.
> >> >>
> >> >> Dan
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> "Mike Romain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> >> news:[email protected]...
> >> >>
> >> >>>I am going to guess the axle tube has been bent or pulled out slightly
> >> >>>right at the pumpkin.
> >> >>>
> >> >>>That will eat bearings fast on a Dana 44 and it might explain the axle
> >> >>>now being too short.
> >> >>>
> >> >>>It is a problem on the new Jeeps. They use a freakin aluminum housing
> >> >>>on the rear Dana 44 that will bend the tubes at the pumpkin just by
> >> >>>being jacked up using the pumpkin. Then they howl and eat bearings...
> >> >>>
> >> >>>Mike
> >> >>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> >>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >> >>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >> >>>Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/index.html?id=2120343242
> >> >>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >> >>>
> >> >>>John Smith wrote:
> >> >>>
> >> >>>>I recently was given an 89 F250 7.3L Deisel 4x4, many miles and ok
> >> >>>>condition
> >> >>>>make it little to no trade in value, hence the free nature. Back to
> >> >>>>my
> >> >>>>question. It was driven into a ditch while my brother-in-law was
> >> >>>>driving
> >> >>>>it
> >> >>>>to work early one morning, he fell asleep. The pickup was repaired at
> >> >>>>the
> >> >>>>body shop and they were supposed to have replaced that half of the,
> >> >>>>Dana
> >> >>>>44
> >> >>>>IFS, axle. This is the drivers side, btw. Here's my problem. It tends
> >> >>>>to
> >> >>>>eat
> >> >>>>front wheel bearings on this side only. All parts have been replaced
> >> >>>>w/
> >> >>>>new
> >> >>>>or used from a reputable auto recycler, short of the drive axle. The
> >> >>>>truck
> >> >>>>howls while going down the freeway, harder in a right hand turn,
> >> >>>>quieter
> >> >>>>in
> >> >>>>a left. Obviously the bearings are under a pretty hard preload. Two
> >> >>>>other
> >> >>>>observed problems. The spindle nut (?) that holds everything tight
> >> >>>>has a
> >> >>>>nasty habit of loosening itself. The other problem is I just bought
> >> >>>>some
> >> >>>>new
> >> >>>>Warn Premium Hubs, the passenger side puked it's guts all over my
> >> >>>>wheel
> >> >>>>:..( When I went to install the drivers side, I couldn't get the
> >> >>>>snap
> >> >>>>ring
> >> >>>>in place. The splined part of the locking hub was 1/16th to 1/8th too
> >> >>>>far
> >> >>>>out. On further inspection, I found the splined bit to be hitting on
> >> >>>>the
> >> >>>>threaded end of the spindle. (i.e. everything was to far in.) I've
> >> >>>>talked
> >> >>>>with the guy who has replaced all the parts to make sure he replaced
> >> >>>>the
> >> >>>>spindle and he assured me he did. He told me where he got it, a
> >> >>>>fairly
> >> >>>>reputable auto recycler in the area, and that he closely inspected,
> >> >>>>including minute measurements, the part and it appeared to be the
> >> >>>>same,
> >> >>>>but
> >> >>>>he changed it out anyway. I've exhausted any ideas I could think of
> >> >>>>and
> >> >>>>am
> >> >>>>open to new ones. Got any?
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>>Really I can't complain, even if the other three corners were to fall
> >> >>>>off
> >> >>>>tomorrow, the price was right!
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>>Thanks for you're time,
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>>Dan
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > --
> >> >
> >> > -----------------
> >> > www.thesnoman.com