Freeloader starting

Hello, I'm new to the forum and would like to introduce myself.

I own a 05' Freelander 2 TD4 and in the last few months or so have experienced problems with warm starting. I know that this is a common issue and features quite a lot on the forums but I haven't found a specific fix for the exact symptoms I'm experiencing. I have had a full service at a Land Rover dealership since the problem started (and made sure the fuel filter was replaced) - the only relevent information they gave me was that diagnostics showed a fuel pump fault which they cleared and it did not reappear during further testing.

The vehicle starts well when the engine is cold - the glow plug warning lamp illuminates, then goes out before I turn it over. The longer I drive the vehicle (and the warmer it becomes) the more difficult it is to restart the vehicle (and I have noticed the heater plug warning lamp fails to illuminate) - it always restarts but takes longer and longer to catch (to the extent I'm expecting the starter motor to flatten the battery). Once cold again the vehicle will start no problem. I have not noticed any knocking coming from the rear offside wheel arch (fuel pump).

Previous threads to similar problems suggest 1) 'Spill off' pipes that link the injectors may be perished or split 2) the glow plug relay may be defective. I have read about a multitude of other possible causes (fuel pump etc) but would be interested to hear what members think.

Incidentally I've hooked the vehicle up to a Bosch KTS diagnostics unit (that I have access to) which recognises and 'talks' to it, but will not allow me to view fault codes or reset them telling me theres 'No authorisation code' - does anyone know what this refers to and can help me with a code or a bypass method?

Thanks

The glow plugs are temperature controlled. They will not come on when the engine is warm, even on a first-start on a hot day.
Probably the cam position sensor is not functioning.

i'd say it's the cam position sensor. i had this trouble on my freelander. try freezing the sensor with a can of freeze spray used by plumbers. the sensor is just infront of the oil cap and it wont need removed. it's a quick fix and will get you out of trouble until you buy a new one.

I've spoken to a Land Rover franchise and they practically laughed at me when I mentioned a new 'camshaft sensor'.

Apparently they have never sold one and when I explained the problem they said it was almost certainly a bad seal on an injector/s which is/are failing to pressurize properly when hot. Guess what - they want to do a 'leak off' test from the injector fuel return pipes which they say will show them which injector/s is/are in need of replacement (@ about £130 a piece + labour).

I'll try the freeze spray and see how I get on - the Land Rover alternative sounds like they're gonna write themselves a blank cheque (as so many people seem to have found).

nock

I had very similar symptons to you, took longer and longer to start but only when warm. Eventually wouldnt start at all when warm so suspected the cam sensor as I'd already done a leak off test which came back good and removed, checked and cleaned the in tank fuel pump (mines a 2002). Still starts first time cold.

Was going to replace (about £ 75 and you can fit it yourself) but decided to get a local independant to look at the codes first. Possibly the best £ 60 I ever spent. "Fuel rail pressure plausibilty" came back.

One of the possible causes was dodgy fuel pump but like i said i'd checked that and it all looked good. Another was injectors so they also re-did the injector leak off test and that then showed 2 u/s 1 on its way and one good. Not sure why mine came back ok and their's didn't but suspect that it might be something to do with me testing a cold engine and they tested it warm.

Anyway, I can start warm using a spray of easy start so try that & I also heard that if you pinch (not completely) the spill pipe then that'll get you started. Not tried that though.

You can buy leak off kits and do the test yourself (about £ 40) to check your injectors but you don't really need a kit at all, if you search there is a member of this forum who has posted a very good guide of how to do this but on another forum so not sure I'm allowed to post the details, pm me if you want them). Not sure what the main dealer would charge but I'd guess a lot more than either £ 40 or nothing.

Anyway I just bought 4 re-furb injectors for £ 250. Again not sure if I'm allowed to post where so pm me if you want the details. The job books at 2.5 hours so that'll give you an idea of what the labour will set you back butif your still confused work on £ 60 an hour for a good indendant, you don't need amain dealer to do the work if it is the injectors but do the leak back test first.