Freelander refuses to start

Dissapointed · Feb 1, 2008

Hi,

Just change the H/G on my 2000 1.8 Freelander. Now the damn thing refuses to start on the key.
Engine turns over OK, good spark, loads of fuel. Drag it down the road - starts but runs a bit lumpy and won't rev until it warms up. Had the electrics checked - all OK.

Apart from "burn it" any suggestions?

defenderdavie · Feb 1, 2008

na you had the jist of my suggestion already

try searching forum for similar problems

Trewey · Feb 1, 2008

Dissapointed said:
Apart from "burn it" any suggestions?

crush it?

defenderdavie · Feb 1, 2008

put it in community recycling bin

see4x4s drivers can be green

Trewey · Feb 1, 2008

are you sure the timing belt isn't 1 tooth out?

Northern Irelander · Feb 1, 2008

Get back to basics, check dizzy cap, order of leads, timing. Crank should be at 12oclock, reading left to right, inlet cam, EXHAUST - IN, exhaust cam, EXHAUST - IN. No oth. Its ok to be out by a tooth.er combination

Dissapointed · Feb 2, 2008

Timing appears to be OK - replaced distrubutor cap, rotor arm, leads & plugs.
Double checked firing order. Used modified H/G (four times thicker than the original) - would this have an adverse effect on compression?

Northern Irelander · Feb 2, 2008

Something isnt connected, whatever you removed to get at the head, double check it again, fuses? It should start 1st time.

Shutty · Feb 2, 2008

earth leads ??

Dissapointed · Feb 3, 2008

Checked all connections. Had mobile diagnostics to check out electrics - nothing wrong there. When you spin her over on the key she fires once then nothing. When bump started ticks over - missing like a pig, won't rev, stinks of petrol. as it warms up, can then rev engine but as soon as you go to pull off it stalls. Will not restart on key. Instinct tells me that it's a timing fault, but the timing is bang on. Anyone know what the compressin is supposed to be on these engines? Seems low to me (on all four around 100) - could this be the problem?

Northern Irelander · Feb 3, 2008

No! extra 0.1mm shim causes a slight loss of compression but will not affect starting

Northern Irelander · Feb 4, 2008

Its common for people to have the crank at the vertical 12 oclock position and have the cams 180 degrees out, it means the engine wont start, timing up the left.
Another one is the crank at 90 degrees out so it is alligned with the 1st mark on the timing cover, and cams spot on, again it will run but rough as a dog.

If diagnostics didnt show anything then your sensors are fine.

Reset the stepper motor, throttle position sensor (rarely needed to be done).

Turn ignition to position II, so dash lights are on. Press accelerator to the floor 5 times in succession, switch off ignition.............job done!

On the MEMS management system, the Throttle position sensor/stepper motor completely shuts for 30 seconds after stalling or engine switch off.

Its a potentiometer mechanism, so ECU locks it in the closed position.
This is to prevent the engine running on after switch off. If you try to restart the engine it wont! Leave it for 30 secs, try again.

Dissapointed · Feb 4, 2008

Hi Northern Irelander - thanks for the advice - i'll try resetting tomorrow (battery flat as witches tit at present and it's raining again!). I'll let you know how I get on - if all else fails, I'll pull the head back off and start again!!

Thanks again, Dave

Freelander refuses to start

Dissapointed

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defenderdavie

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Trewey

Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.

defenderdavie

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Trewey

Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.

Northern Irelander

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Dissapointed

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Northern Irelander

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Shutty

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Dissapointed

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Northern Irelander

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Northern Irelander

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Dissapointed

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