Freelander plugs and running rough when hot

Hi guys, I’m new here looking for a bit of advice.

I’ve just bought a Freelander 1998 1.8 petrol injected, and after two days of trouble free driving it’s begun to give me a headache. The more I learn about this model the more I think I’m going to be a very regular poster here.

Anyhow, first question: what is a good cost effective alternative to the Champion platinum sparkplugs that are in it now (RC8PYP)? They cost $25 each here in Australia – that’s about three times what I’m used to paying for plugs for my other cars. Can anyone explain why the Freeloader needs such expensive plugs?

Secondly, as I said, after two days my new (used – 100,000K) Freeloader started running rough when at full running temp. It’s not overheating (I went all through that) but it’s losing power on acceleration, missing, sometimes dropping all power (but not stalling) when accelerating up to normal driving speeds. It runs fine when cold.

I checked the exhaust pipe and it is pretty sooty. The plug contacts look fine but there seems to be a little scorching on the outside of the plug – on the ceramic tower above the hex nut part (sorry not up to scratch with spark plug terminology). This is all on the out side of the engine not in the head itself.

Two things come to my mind – a bad plug or even a bad lead (but why only when hot?) – or an over rich fuel mixture, which explains the soot. (Or both!)

I’ve definitely been avoiding motoring into the 21st century – my last 4x4 was an ‘89 Lada Niva , which although underpowered was a great car for me – one whose mechanics I could really understand (because it was so old fashioned). The Freeloader, with all its computer controlled gadgetry is a bit beyond me; however I suspect this car is going to change all that – baptism by fire , so to speak.

Thanking you all in advance,

OEK

BTW I did try to search these questions but after an hour of reading non relevant posts I surrendered.

Hi, Plugs are expensive due to being platinum plugs but wouldnt substitute them for anything else as can give rough running/poor fuel economy on these, but they should last for about 30,000 miles so its not too bad... normally running rough when warm and rich mixture is the temperature sender for the ecu not working correctly, the brown one on the front of the water outlet casting by the coil pack (not the blue one, thats just for the temp gauge on the dash). reading when warm across it is approx 400 ohms. if its something like 1000+ ohms when the engine is hot then its faulty. Other possibility is the lambda (o2) sensor. check the voltage on the black wire on the sensor. if its approx .9volt or more then its a rich mixture, should be approx .5v or switching .2 to .8 (ish, about every second) when mixture is ok. but wait until the engine is warm before doing this or you may get a false reading. having a simular problem with mine at the moment but it looks like my ecu is not reading the lambda sensor input (mines on .9 to 1.0volts) so isnt weakening the mixture, and have so much fuel going in that the exhaust fumes sting your eyes! if you fix your problem could you post a follow-up to help other people....hope this helps a bit...

Thanks Wylde,

I have already replaced the brown sender so can pretty much rule out that one. I checked the plug leads last night in the dark and saw they were flashing, I'll replace them ASAP along with the plugs (even if I have to sell a kidney to pay for them ). As for the lambda - is there any way I can adjust the mixture if this proves to be the problem - or is it a plug-in job for a landrover dealership garage?

I think I'm looking at two separate faults here - the high tension leakage and the mixture issue (plenty of soot in the exhaust pipe). I'll definately report on my progress, might get a buddy to help check the lambda sensor. Hope you get your Freelander sorted too.

Cheers OEK