Freelander l series aux belt problems

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cymraeg

cymraeg

Member
Posts
45
Hi all. Picked a 98 hippo diesel up for the Mrs a couple of weeks back and as a cheap truck it's been going ok.

So last night when she came to pick me up she described the steering going all juddery and seeming as if the wheels aren't turning and then juddering when cornering.

I lifted the bonnet for a look and immediately smelt burning rubber.

Restarted the engine and the drive belt was howling but not actually turning on the pulleys so shut it back off.

Pas fluid level is ok so is the coolant. Battery light on but to be expected.

Sooooo got it home cut the old belt off and it's propper shagged almost ripped in places etc. Now tried the pulleys and I can turn the alternator freely and the pas pump but has the tiniest bit of play in the pulley. Can turn the crank pulley with a bar and forgot to check air con pulley.

How do I check the tensioner and could a ****ed one of these cause the belt to seize/not turn on the pulleys and cause the juddery steering. (My limited much knowledge said yes as the pas pump wasnt being turned by the belt)

Apologies for the long post but confuzzled
 
The L Series is a bullet proof engine that will just go on and on and on.

However, the only thing (almost) that kills them is the aux belt failing - this wraps round the main pulley which in turn takes the cam belt out and night-night L Series.

It is almost always the tensioner that takes the aux belt out - they are the weak point in the engine. I've heard the story on here various times - but usually people's engines have been trashed by the time they're posting on LZ and how to test the tensioner isn't a top priority!

I'm inclined to say don't bother checking it - or wondering how it stops the belt turning - just get a new belt and tensioner. However, the tensioners are not cheap - so it might be worth waiting or researching for answers - but I'd still take no risks and just go buy a new belt and tensioner!
 
Cheers for the reply mate. Could a ****ed tensioner stop the belt rotating? Sorry if a dumb question
 
cymraeg said:
Cheers for the reply mate. Could a ****ed tensioner stop the belt rotating? Sorry if a dumb question
Click to expand...
Not sure. If it has lost its "springyness" then the tension would be lost. A big loss in tension could mean the belt is so loose it falls off (and dioes as described above), however, if it has only lost some tension then it could be that there is not enough tension for the main pulley to turn the alternator/PAS so it slips on the main pulley causing the friction/heat/smoke.
 
Once again thank you for your reply fella. The crank pulley was turning as the belt is almost burnt through in places. Will Chuck a new tensioner and belt on tomorrow after ruling out the air con pulley and see where we are
 
Guys just want to say thanks. Was indeed the tensioner totally seized. New belt and tensioner today and driving better than ever.

Steering was a bit notchy before so wondering if this was down to the old belt slipping on the pulley s...
 
cymraeg said:
Guys just want to say thanks. Was indeed the tensioner totally seized. New belt and tensioner today and driving better than ever.

Steering was a bit notchy before so wondering if this was down to the old belt slipping on the pulley s...
Click to expand...
Well done - another L Series Freelander saved :)

Its great that you put the thread up because it may just save my Freelander as well....

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/steering-rack-removal.316773/#post-4016092

I haven't found any issues and hadn't thought about the belt slipping - but at the weekend I'll definitely take the aux belt off, examine it and check the tensioner!
 
cymraeg said:
4x4parts for less.

Bout 70 quid with express delivery
Click to expand...

Sorry it was www.totalparts.co.uk very helpful chaps. Didnt have the tensioner in stock but ordered direct from bearmach at 11 am and delivered next day at 10am so big thumbs up. Not the cheapest I found but were the quickest to be able to get one to me.

Easy enough to change its just a 10mm Allen key socket for the bolt.

No need to jack vehicle up just turn steering full lock to the right.

Remover splash guard 3 x 10mm boots

Then you can access bolt on tensioner. Used a breaker bar with wiggle socket to crack it off then a ratchet.

Install is reverse of above and slap a new belt on. Found it easiest doing belt bottom to top.
 
Well just bit of a further update she went in today to have some new tyres fitted (very good set of part worns) to replace the van tyres she came on when we bought her last month.

What a difference. The drive line vibration at 55 60 mph totally gone, reduced road noise and the steering wheel shimmy/bump steer totally gone. She drives like a different truck. She might be a keeper
 
cymraeg said:
Well just bit of a further update she went in today to have some new tyres fitted (very good set of part worns) to replace the van tyres she came on when we bought her last month.

What a difference. The drive line vibration at 55 60 mph totally gone, reduced road noise and the steering wheel shimmy/bump steer totally gone. She drives like a different truck. She might be a keeper
Click to expand...

Why use potentially dangerous part worn tyres, when much safer budget tyres are available for about £40 each, fitted.
 
I'm not a fan of buying part worns as you don't know their history. I went into a tyre shop for 2 tyres for my Disco and they sold me a couple of part worns. When they fitted them they looked fine. It wasn't until some time later I noticed 1 of them had a big bulge on the inside side wall! I had a closer look at the other 1 and and found a split in the rubber right across the tyre. So they both came off for new rubber - from a different tyre shop!
 
GrumpyGel said:
I'm not a fan of buying part worns as you don't know their history. I went into a tyre shop for 2 tyres for my Disco and they sold me a couple of part worns. When they fitted them they looked fine. It wasn't until some time later I noticed 1 of them had a big bulge on the inside side wall! I had a closer look at the other 1 and and found a split in the rubber right across the tyre. So they both came off for new rubber - from a different tyre shop!
Click to expand...

The three most important things on a vehicle are tyres and brakes and steering.
Those items I'd definitely not skimp on. Even cheap Chinese tyres are a safer option by comparison to part worns.
I definitely wouldn't fit part worn tyres to any vehicle that my family would be using. Saving a couple of quid, isn't worth the risk.
Just my opinion of course.

Edited for improved accuracy.
 
Last edited:
Chaps totally agree with the part worn views and it's only a stop gap until the end of the month when they will indeed get swapped out for new shoes.

Unfortunately needs must atm and they are in much better condition to the van tyres that were on her. Hence the improvement in steering and handling.
 
Nodge68 said:
Why use potentially dangerous part worn tyres, when much safer budget tyres are available for about £40 each, fitted.
Click to expand...

Do you have a link mate. Was quoted 80 each round here as the cheapest fitted hence having to put part worn on. And a search didn't throw anything much cheaper up. 195 80 r15s
 
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