Freelander Drivers door lock

Hi,
My drivers door central locking has decided to stop working. When the remote fob is pressed once the lock mechanism seems to operate but the lock doesn't release. When the fob is pressed the second time all the other doors unlock as normal. Then when the remote fob is pressed to lock the doors, all doors lock as normal including the drivers door!
Does anyone know of a possible cause and / or remedy for this??
Any help would be appreciated.
Plus i have my MOT coming up this month and am not sure if the central locking is a pass/fail item??

Thanks,

this is caused by a failed solenoid in the drivers door lock assembly. you could try taking it out and lubricating everything, but chances are it'll make no difference.

the replacement part number from land rover is LALR9782 K633 Lock Assy - Fro.

Guide price is about £65 plus VAT, and it should take around an hour to fit for a home DIY job, if you are careful about removing the trim. Fairly easy to do, just a bit fiddly connecting all the locking rods and cables at the same time.

as for MOT, the locking / unlocking is irrelevant. As long as the door can be opened from the inside, then it's acceptable.

I have this exact same problem as this and the repair was quoted as £150 inc parts from the local garage. I would rather tell them to jog on for 200% the price of the part on its own and do it myself.

I should be able to handle the latch itself ok but could anyone explain to a newbie how to remove the necessary door panel? .

Haines manual explains it well, or you can download the RAVE (do a forum search for the details of the green oval website.)

a trim removal tool is handy, even if it is just a pry bar or a piece of flat metal, rather than using screw drivers to lever the door cards off.

Cheers

Blippie

gingerbeer17 said:

Hi,
My drivers door central locking has decided to stop working. When the remote fob is pressed once the lock mechanism seems to operate but the lock doesn't release. When the fob is pressed the second time all the other doors unlock as normal. Then when the remote fob is pressed to lock the doors, all doors lock as normal including the drivers door.

Click to expand...

I was just about to ask the same question....good job I did a search first.

The only difference I have is that it is intermittent. Sometimes the drivers door opens on the first press of the fob, but mostly needs two presses to unlock all doors.
Surely, if it's a failed solenoid, it wouldn't work at all???

Very occasionally the alarm beeps, and I realise the fob battery is ready for changing....but would that cause this problem?

When the drivers door fails to open on the first press, I can hear the click, presumably from the solenoid.
Would it not be more likely to be a linkage problem.....sometimes it hits whatever, and sometimes it doesn't?

I intend to take the door panel off and have a poke around....but any help appreciated.

Also....there's summat loose inside the passenger door. There's a distinct rattle when closing the door.
Could this be related?

Each door lock has two motors, one to lock/unlock and the other to superlock/unlock (superlocking stops you opening the doors from the inside ).When you press the unlock button on the fob it un-super locks all the doors and unlocks the drivers door. The second press unlocks the other doors. It sounds like one of the motors is siezed. If you can open the door from the inside it isn't superlocked so that motor is O.K. It could also be the unlock wire to the motor broken (I think it is the pink one )

Just got this same problem myself. Made worse by the sudden realisation that my key doesnt fit the lock. (ive always been lazy and used the remote) :O checked all the wiring over and its nothing simple.

I recently had to fix the same fault on the ROS door on mine and will be doing the RNS this weekend. It's very difficult to describe ( and do ) but there is a small latch /lever tucked up at the rear top of the solenoid ( tight into the door skin )that was seized and had too be freed off and lube'd . If the solenoid can be heard activating in lock / unlock mode it should be ok.
I've found that all the lock mechanisms and stays require regular lubrication to keep them working.
HTH's
I bought a repacement and never used it so should be able to get a photo of it and post it tomorrow.

EDIT
Here , I'm away all day tomorrow........
Seen from outside looking in, the two greeen connections are for lock pin and doorhandle rods . Loom plug is at bottom right .

This is the latch lever that I found seized and had to be worked free.

if you can secure all windows and doors,key fob or manually count yerslf lucky.Also,consider getting an Alfa Romeo,as a back up car a 156 will easilly carry a 2 litre doozel in the spare wheel base,and easily cruse motorway or backlane.....mmm .
Could do with a new set of front driveshafts....... ...mm .

OldIrishWulf said:

if you can secure all windows and doors,key fob or manually count yerslf lucky.Also,consider getting an Alfa Romeo,as a back up car a 156 will easilly carry a 2 litre doozel in the spare wheel base,and easily cruse motorway or backlane.....mmm .
Could do with a new set of front driveshafts....... ...mm .

Click to expand...

An Alfa Romeo as a back-up car, are you mad?

its got even more wierd now. Found that if you sit in the car with the window down... then lock the car up using the c/l button inside... you can open the car from outside...
To me that suggests that the "deadlock"part of the mechanism is working but the "lock" part isnt

Freelander Drivers Door. The extreme answer to open the stuck shut door.

Not knowing to much about this problem I read with interest the above posts.

My problem:

Keyfob closes but does not open the Drivers Door. Internal handle opens door and externally the key unlocked and locked the door and external handle would open the door. Well its been like this for near on a year !! Until today that is!!

Key would not unlock the door, external handle would not open the door and internal handle would also not open the door. In fact the door remained very locked and closed indeed.

Searched and found these posts but no real answer to open the door. Remember with the door closed I cannot see the workings of the lock and it's latch.

What I did: (seriously this is what I did)

Removed the internal cover on the drivers door. (this is very hard to do when the door is in the closed position and you will, as I have done, create some damage to the cover.)

I then tried to get my hand up the inside of the door (window in up position) could feel the lock and all the connections (key, internal handle cable and push rod all seemed to be in place and connected.

Oh no - I thought.

After much thinking I decided that it was near on impossible to see what I wanted to see. So I got my electric tools out and decided to put to use the hand grinder to cut away an area of metal to expose the door locking motor assembly. After cutting more than I thought I needed I was able to see the cables and rods and no matter what I tried, still could not get the assembly to release and open the door.

Hammer, long flat screw driver and side cutters was required next.

As I could now see the lock assembly I decided that it was more than likely going to be replaced now. So I set out to now destroy the plastic outer of the assembly housing, exposing internal workings and also the broken part within (now found the trouble maker) After removing over 90% of the housing the only part that remained was the metal workings of the assembly. Using the internal door handle cable (right on the inside I was able to pull this and open the Door) closing the door and re-opening it from the exteria handle worked all ok too.

So now the door closes and remains shut and also can be opened from outside or from inside. The car is now useable again. Note I can not lock it properly using the key or keyfob and the internal lights do not come on when the door is opened (the wiring socket is not connected to anthing right now, well it will be re-connected to the new assembley when its fitted)

Next is to order in the right part - and remove the last little bits of the old assembly and replace with new assembly. (this is yet to be completed)

This whole operation just to get the door open took 4 hours. Inclusive of a lot of head scratching to think what to do, OH and 1 cup of tea.

Undertaken outside in minus 10 degrees in the country side of a eastern European Country (I can tell you it was dam cold).

When I get the new part I will post the data on how easy or hard it was to complete and re-assemble the door.

But as I said - I am able to continue to use the car but of course keep my eye on it until a new lock has been fitted.

OldIrishWulf said:

if you can secure all windows and doors,key fob or manually count yerslf lucky.Also,consider getting an Alfa Romeo,as a back up car a 156 will easilly carry a 2 litre doozel in the spare wheel base,and easily cruse motorway or backlane.....mmm .
Could do with a new set of front driveshafts....... ...mm .

Click to expand...

the boot should be big enough to store the spare alfa gearbox in too, cos it WILL need one at some point

I have the same problem and was wondering if for a short term solution could I swap the drivers door lock mechanism with the back right doors mechanism?? Are they the same??

Dont think so, they looked pretty different when i had mine out. If i remember right the rear was noticeably smaller and has the child lock switch etc.

Swapped out two of them easy enough, although i had help doing the first one.

Hi,

Do you still have the photos of the door lock mechanisms as they don't seem to be available.

Thanks

I suffer with same problem but I still love her .....