Freelander 2 non starter

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lyndbo

Active Member
Posts
106
Hi all , had a problem a few weeks back and the Freelander 2 wouldn't start , thought it might be the fuel filter so changed it and did a Jump start and it started , 2weeks after while it was on tickover it stopped and wouldn't start again , recovery came jump started it and it fired up straight away , no codes , so I changed the battery and crank sensor and it fired up straight away. The other day which was 3 weeks on came to start and wouldn't fire up , it went to go for a few seconds but died , recovery said not one code but he couldn't start it but did try easy start and it went to go , diagnosed as fuel pump . Tried it a few times over the days but will not fire up . Is it the fuel pump or something else
 
Is it the fuel pump or something else
Absolutely impossible to say for certain without looking at the vehicle.

These are complicated vehicles, and the engine electric controls are no different.

However there are a few items that can and do fail, giving no start symptoms.
The throttle body sticking closed is quite common.
Crank sensor or its wiring is another.
Cam sensor sometimes crops up.
If the tank is about ¼ full, then the tank transfer pump is likely the issue.

The HP fuel pump doesn't fail often, but the drive dog on exhaust cam can break off, stopping the pump from turning.

Unless you know how to diagnose common rail diesel issues yourself, it's best to get the vehicle to someone respectable who can diagnose the issue, and fix it.
 
Absolutely impossible to say for certain without looking at the vehicle.

These are complicated vehicles, and the engine electric controls are no different.

However there are a few items that can and do fail, giving no start symptoms.
The throttle body sticking closed is quite common.
Crank sensor or its wiring is another.
Cam sensor sometimes crops up.
If the tank is about ¼ full, then the tank transfer pump is likely the issue.

The HP fuel pump doesn't fail often, but the drive dog on exhaust cam can break off, stopping the pump from turning.

Unless you know how to diagnose common rail diesel issues yourself, it's best to get the vehicle to someone respectable who can diagnose the issue, and fix it.
Ok thanks, I've got a cam sensor I bought a few weeks back so I'll try that first
 
Ok thanks, I've got a cam sensor I bought a few weeks back so I'll try that first
Make sure you set the clearance accurately, or it'll break off.

Better still, run a diagnostic on it first, to see if anything helpful comes up in the codes. ;)
 
Well that's another thing guage is showing about a 1/4 but when you turn it over the fuel light comes on and the needle drops so I'm also going to add a couple of cans of diesel just in case
 
Well that's another thing guage is showing about a 1/4 but when you turn it over the fuel light comes on and the needle drops so I'm also going to add a couple of cans of diesel just in case

It sounds like is could well be the tank transfer pump at fault, or its wiring, both of which can can cause cutting out or failure to start, when the gauge displays about ¼ of a tank.
 
It sounds like is could well be the tank transfer pump at fault, or its wiring, both of which can can cause cutting out or failure to start, when the gauge displays about ¼ of a tank.
Time has been a issue but I put a couple of containers of diesel in the tank and tried starting it , still no go .
 
It showing just under 1/2 tank

Have you primed the fuel filter with the correct priming pump?

Did you fit another cam sensor? If so did you set the air gap correctly?
Have you checked the throttle butterfly isn't stuck closed?
 
On inspection it hadn't run out of fuel if the tank transfer pump wasn't working as there was still fuel in the fuel pipe that leads upto the pump, but I did connect a 12v pump to make sure that fuel was flowing from the tank through the filter, I even bled the injector pipes and fuel was trickling out each one . But what I have noticed after bleeding the system is there's air in the fuel pipe that leads upto the pump which sits at the connector when not cranking over .
 
But what I have noticed after bleeding the system is there's air in the fuel pipe that leads upto the pump which sits at the connector when not cranking over

What make is the filter? Some aftermarket filters don't seal where the fuel line from the tank connector joins, allowing air to enter the system.

Mine also suffered the air in clear line issue, which was solved by replacing the fuel filter with an OE (has Perflux on it), and I changed the O rings in the quick connector at the same time, but it did the trick. However mine started and ran ok, except for an occasional misfire under full load.

Others have also had bubbles in the fuel supply line, but haven't had any running issues, so the bubbles might be a red herring.
 
Filter is Mann , I run a diagnosis on it today and still no codes at present , another thing I noticed today was when it was cranking over the temperature gauge was at its highest and the red warning light on
 
Filter is Mann , I run a diagnosis on it today and still no codes at present , another thing I noticed today was when it was cranking over the temperature gauge was at its highest and the red warning light on
It sounds like there's some data corruption going on. It might be worth checking all the plugs are secure to the CJB, which is left of the glove box.
 
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JCB ???? , I've only heard of JCB diggers
Sorry. Auto correct did a silly.
Check the connections at the CJB (Central Junction Box) to the left of the glove box.
Sometimes connections can get dislodged by passenger's feet.
 
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