FREELANDER 2 , engine stalls

Hi all, my freelander 2 is given me a massive headache.

Has been driving fine but the past week has caused issues

Starts fine, everything as is it seems then once you drive it for 20mins and the engine temp is up…. If you slow down then try to accelerate the engine cuts out. Reduced power performance alert, oil light and engine light comes on. Then have to leave it cool down before you can drive again for another 10 minutes before it does the same think.

Obviously loss of everything on a busy rod ain’t ideal.

I’ve replaced the fuel pump and the throttle body as it threw up a fault code initially PE2E5. Under inspection the gears had no teeth left so I was hopeful I had solved it.

I’ve let it warm up and did a quick lap around the village and yet it cuts out again but no fault code this time.

Please can anyone suggest the next thing to check here.

Think the crank sensor that often fails on the diesels, dunno if it would throw a fault.

A replacement TB needs calibration, or it can fail again very quickly, however that won't cause stalling. If the EGR valve is stuck open, that will stop the engine running. The crank sensor is also known to give similar symptoms, and seldom gives a code. Which fuel pump did you replace and why?

After service I was told it needed replacing as it hasn’t been done for at least 9 years. I’ve only had it for a few months. Was a quick buy to get me out of trouble.
I’m not a whizz a cars so had it swapped out incase it was that. Throttle body was done after reviewing faults in here. After seeing the cogs I thought I had solved it and got it swapped it out.

A lot of people saying the crank sensor. And for the cost of the part I think that may be my next option. Failing that it it will have to wait for a bit until I juggle some more funds.

Don’t want to give up just yet.

I'm curious as to why it needed a fuel pump, and which one as there are 2.

Was the new throttle body calibrated? This is an important part of the replacement process.

The crank sensor and its wiring are subject to failure, as they're in a location which can get wet in use. Don't buy cheap either, as those fail quickly. Get only a genuine LR part, or a quality brand like Bosch, Febi and the like. I've changed the connector on mine too, as those are also known to suffer corrosion, or connector spreading.

Hi, don’t know why I said fuel pump, meant to say fuel filter (been a long day).

ill check with the mechanic see if it was calibrated. As yeah looks like if not then still wouldn’t be working properly. If not then will be getting it back to them to do asap.

Yeah have ordered a Febi will have a look at the connection for corrosion.

Thanks for your messages hopefully this will sort it

Ah filter not pump. That's fine. But I've another question reference the filter. Does it have Purflux written on the top? If not, then it's not an OE part, which can cause it's own problems, especially when the engine is hot.

Nodge68 said:

Ah filter not pump. That's fine. But I've another question reference the filter. Does it have Purflux written on the top? If not, then it's not an OE part, which can cause it's own problems, especially when the engine is hot.

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Hi John.
These are Purflux. got two on the shelf