Freelander 1 : electrical issue in cabin

Hi all,

I have freelander 1 td4, 2001, 3 doors. Actually I have electrical issue in cabine since few days : no sliding doors (front and back),no light on roof, no time, no radio, no central lock, wing mirror motors ko, and can not open rear door. If I press rear sliding door button, then I get bip sound.

Motor, lighter, air conditionning are working like a charm.

I had checked fuses : all were ok, except #F32 (5 ampere) in cabin fuse box. It was changed. Also I had extracted fuse box, opened it : electric relay, electronic and connectors seem to be ok.

Do you have any idea in order to troubleshoot this annoying issue ?
Electric cable cut ?
Is any tricky solution in order to open rear door ?

Thx
Nick

Note : my aplogies for english use : I have used english long time ago.

I can't help with this problem, but there are manuals for Freelander called 'Rave' that have full electrical diagrams in them. They also have pictures of all the electrical connectors etc so that you can located/identify them. You may find all these items go through 1 piece of the loom to help identify the problem.

You can download a copy (its 650MB!) from here...
http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/Rave2000.iso
http://www.mydocz.com/Landie/Rave2000.iso

It is an ISO image and its content only works on Windows. The easiest thing is to burn it to a CD or use some software to open it as a virtual drive letter - eg I use "Virtual CloneDrive" which opens the content as (for examle) drive E:

ISO will easy to use. Thank you GrumpyGel for your help

Nick06 said:

ISO will easy to use. Thank you GrumpyGel for your help

Click to expand...

No problems, please update the thread with what you find

Did you notice how fast the file downloaded, whether it was fast or slow?

According to my home poor bandwith (~2.5Mbps), file transfert was done in arround 1h30. Sure I will update post asap. Today it is rainning cat and dog . I can not work on car. Meanwhile I can study doc.

Well few news since last post. I am still looking for lovely freelander's issue. I have unpluged cabin fuse box and check it (electronic printed board, chipset, plugs, cables). Nothing to report.
Yesterday I visit mechanic in order to find new lead. According to him, it is not linked to car computer because this device is dedicated to manage only engine. Engine is running like a charm. Good news !
Also I heard swith sound when I click on central lock, but no lock/unlock. Accordind to mechanic, it could be electric chassis cut or power cable cut located behind tachometer panel. I will print electric schemas to troubleshoot before to take to pieces. Wait and see...

The car has multiple computers - the ECU is the one for the engine and it is working OK. There is also one for the ABS - presumably this is working OK, but it would not affect the problems you have. The other main one if the CCU - this is behind the fuse box inside the car - it controls all the things you describe as having problems - it is your problem I am sure. The CCU is the 'security' computer.

I think there must be power getting to the CCU as the engine ECU will talk to it before starting the engine - if the CCU does not talk back the car will be "immobilised". Assuming the CCU is working in some way, you could plug in a diagnostic machine to see it it returns any error codes.

It would be interesting to see what others think.

Ok, car has two computers : ECU and CCU. ECU for engine management, and CCU for security . It is black box : lLucas type 27VT/6EC energising coil CCU. (Merde : I can not upload picture !).

According to my understanding, if CCU is KO then car can not move (as written "immobilised"). Actually it is not the case. I am starting with key and driving the car all the days. Also, is CCU affecting lighter socket, affecting lights behing fan panel, affecting lights behind tachometer panel, gauge speed/RPM ? 'cause there are working.

Good idea, I will ask to mecanic to plug diagnostic machine.

Question : if I have to replace CCU then how cost this unit and probably linked devices (keys, remote lock) ?

Funnily enough I just came across CCUs for sale and they are only about £80 new. You would need diagnostics to code your remotes to it. However, the CCU and ECU both share a code which they exchange on start and if different immobilise the car (as discussed) How that is coded I do not know!

Without knowledge or reading the documentation (Rave) it is not possible to understand what components the CCU controls - anything that needs logic to work is controlled by the CCU - for example the rear demist is controlled because it will only work if the window is up. Whether there is any logic for the things you mention (like lighter socket), I do not know - it may just be when the ignition is on.

If can only say what I said above - that is to follow the electrical wring diagram on all the bits that don't work back to a point they all go through - which is probably the CCU or a fuse/connector.

Have you jump started another car? This has been known to make the CCU fail.

Have you checked the fuse in the engine bay fuse box?

Nodge68 : sure I have checked all fuses one by one.
GrumpyGel : I have quickly checked electric lighter socket diagram : no CCU. ECU +CCU + (with and without) keys an nieman + blabla is between 40 to 200 pounds !?! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rove...662450?hash=item41b29f5bf2:g:0-oAAOSw-kdX07nQ

For your spec of car then make sure you get a 2001on CCU which doesn't do the immobilisation only the remote locking etc. and you can program your existing plips to a second hand CCU

Doesn't sound like a faulty CCU more like a wiring issue as CCU doesn't control radio, clock or wing mirrors

Are the plugs in the right place on the fuse board?

I would listen to this man ^^^^^^^ not me!

You say that when you press the rear window button there is a bleep sound - that will be turned on by the CCU - possibly because the CCU has had a loss of power and the window needs calibrating.

Have you followed the wiring diagrams? I would think that all things that the CCU controls are activated by relays - do they go back to a common fuse/fusible link that is shared by the non-CCU items listed by td4van?

To summarize, issue originated after I have crossed fast over hump to make my childrens happy.

Td4Van : sounds "great" if it is only wiring issue. Mechanical things the same. I have to print diagrams and bring it back.
GrumpyGel : CCU diagram is the following :

• horn (working)
  
• aux sensor (should be alarm system, door mirror, ...)
• passenger lock
• all door lock (see below)
  
• double lock
• front wipper parlk power => motor wipper windscreen (working)
• tail door actuator => motor lock tail door
• hall gnd => motor window tail door
• drivers door lock => motor door lock front lh
• front wipper slow => swith wash / wipe windscreen (working)

Audio system is not using CCU. However is KO.

Every days, I am listening to all sounds. Last one is relay motion sound (like "clic clac") after pressing central lock button in car. Sure lock is KO. According to mechanical, it should be power cut which one pass through relay.

I will focus on lock and audio system diagram to find common issue.

I would be looking at Link/Fuse 4 under the bonnet. This is an 80 Amp unit that seems to be a common factor to your issues.

Link 4 provides power to a bunch of relays that control the items you have problems with. If it fails the relays will still click but won't output any power. It also feeds the always on supply to the radio and it won't work if it is not present.

Tony Reeves said:

I would be looking at Link/Fuse 4 under the bonnet. This is an 80 Amp unit that seems to be a common factor to your issues.

Link 4 provides power to a bunch of relays that control the items you have problems with. If it fails the relays will still click but won't output any power. It also feeds the always on supply to the radio and it won't work if it is not present.

Click to expand...

Yes, I agree, I've just checked the wiring diagram for MY02 LHD and all the faulty bits I've checked (windows, interior lamp, radio & door mirrors) are all powered by the Fusible Link 4 in the Engine Compartment Fuse Box (ECFB).

All take feed from Connector S0574-2 on the ECFB. This goes to Connector C0587-1 on the Passenger Compartment Fuse Box (PCFB). From there power is distributed within the fuse box to:

Windows: CCU controlled Relay 134 and on to Fuse 33 (L) & Fuse 34 (R) and on to Connectors C0586-4 and C0586-1.
Interior Lamp: Fuse 14 and on to Connector C0580-7.Radio:
Radio : Fuse 9 and on to Connector C0585-3
Door Mirrors: CCU controlled Relay134 and on to Fuse 17 and on to Connector C0589-17.

So check Fusible Link 4.
If that is OK, check the wire from ECFB Connector S0574-2 to PCFB Connector C0587-1.
If that is OK I would imagine the wiring (PCB?) of the PCFB is burnt out and not distributing from Connector C0587-1.

GrumpyGel said:

Yes, I agree, I've just checked the wiring diagram for MY02 LHD and all the faulty bits I've checked (windows, interior lamp, radio & door mirrors) are all powered by the Fusible Link 4 in the Engine Compartment Fuse Box (ECFB).

All take feed from Connector S0574-2 on the ECFB. This goes to Connector C0587-1 on the Passenger Compartment Fuse Box (PCFB). From there power is distributed within the fuse box to:

Windows: CCU controlled Relay 134 and on to Fuse 33 (L) & Fuse 34 (R) and on to Connectors C0586-4 and C0586-1.
Interior Lamp: Fuse 14 and on to Connector C0580-7.Radio:
Radio : Fuse 9 and on to Connector C0585-3
Door Mirrors: CCU controlled Relay134 and on to Fuse 17 and on to Connector C0589-17.

So check Fusible Link 4.
If that is OK, check the wire from ECFB Connector S0574-2 to PCFB Connector C0587-1.
If that is OK I would imagine the wiring (PCB?) of the PCFB is burnt out and not distributing from Connector C0587-1.

Click to expand...

I asked about fuses on post 10. All fuses were ok in the engine bay fuse box. I do know that there can be bad connections under the fuse-board too. So that's where I would be looking.

Nodge68 said:

I asked about fuses on post 10. All fuses were ok in the engine bay fuse box. I do know that there can be bad connections under the fuse-board too. So that's where I would be looking.

Click to expand...

think there was a write up a while back where a member had bad connections under the fuse box

he also found the earth was bad , so he put in new earths on the chassis and engine

never found out the outcome though

V6 : As written, I have removed fuse box and disassemble all pieces of this box. I have checked printed circuit, borard, connectors, CCU body ... Fuse box connectors are good.
gstuart : thx for this information. I take it to my pocket !
Tony Reeves : yes I read diagrams. I get the same.
GrumpyGel : nice details ! I take as well in my pocket !