Freelander 1 Found the problem i think i hope

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tlo

tlo

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Location
nottingham
If it had been in November then it would have been on a bonfire, the fun I have had over the last few days anyway I have managed to get it looked at and the only fault is this
20170928_101837.jpg

So fingers crossed am I right in thinking I need a wiring overlay ?
If so is this the right one ? thanks
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-pressure-regulator-repair-loom-ymq503320-p-6875.html
 
nope not been fitted I just wanted your opinion and if that was a good place to buy the kit from . At first he thought it was the sensor because the fault code machine was reading what the pressure was and how much fuel was needed and as you increased the throttle there was quite a difference in the numbers . But then he had a play with the wires near the sensor and the engine started to run really rough
 
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tlo said:
nope not been fitted I just wanted your opinion and if that was a good place to buy the kit from . At first he thought it was the sensor because the fault code machine was reading what the pressure was and how much fuel was needed and as you increased the throttle there was quite a difference in the numbers . But then he had a play with the wires near the sensor and the engine started to run really rough
Click to expand...

That is the overly harness kit. LR also recommend changing the sensor to the later type with improved corrosion resistance on its contacts. The sensor is very expensive by comparison to the harness though.
Island 4X4 are a reputable parts supplier. ;)
 
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Hi Nodge
What and how are the overlay harness kits different from the original ? as it is only a wiring plug and wires do we know, if so could it be posted please cheers Arctic
 
I know what you mean about expensive £199 to my mechanic !! so it is the wiring loom first ,in my limited time with my freelander I think when it runs 99% of the vibration is gone so I hope the sensor its self is ok . At one time I thought it was the propshaft , is there something I can squirt/rub on the contacts of the sensor to help stop corrosion ?
@ Artic other than it is shorter I don't know I assume the fact that it is long gives the original more chance to crack plus imo the heat of the engine after time wont do it any good .I am sure Nodge will have a far better idea than I do
 
Arctic2 said:
Hi Nodge
What and how are the overlay harness kits different from the original ? as it is only a wiring plug and wires do we know, if so could it be posted please cheers Arctic
Click to expand...

The rail sensor overly harness is a replacement upgrade harness that LR supplied as a replacement for the rail sensor wiring built into the engine harness. It was designed to "overlay" the faulty part of the rail sensor. It only contains the rail sensor wires.

It has improved contacts which are more resistant to corrosion than the original. The sealing arrangements is improved too.

To fit it requires an extra hole to be drilled in the E box side. It then connects to the rail multi-plug at the EDC. The other end has a new plug to fit the sensor.

It's best to fit the later improved sensor at the same time as the overly harness.
 
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The new wiring kit has been dispatched as for the sensor its self as I have said when it does run ok there is only a slight wobble maybe the vcu bearings ? sort that out another time , hopefully the sensor is ok I will let you know how I get on . I like my head were it is ie on my shoulders :D if I told the mrs I wanted £199 for a sensor I could imagine her reaction:oops:
 
Ok stupid question time .....yes I know another one, got the kit this morning is the best place for the foam ring on the inside or outside of black box the the wires feed in to and what is the little black plastic thing for?
 
Not to worry I didn't use them but it would still be nice to know , however when I rev the car to about 2.500 rpm I still have a slight miss for lack of a better word and white smoke out the back any ideas ? a friend thinks it could be the car needs a a good run now I have fitted the kit or because I have a new back box fitted but I am not so sure
 
tlo said:
Ok stupid question time .....yes I know another one, got the kit this morning is the best place for the foam ring on the inside or outside of black box the the wires feed in to and what is the little black plastic thing for?
Click to expand...

There's a technical bulletin on fitting the overly harness. From memory, it doesn't mention the foam disc or plastic dodad you are referring too.
I'll look out the TB later on. ;)
 
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tlo said:
Not to worry I didn't use them but it would still be nice to know , however when I rev the car to about 2.500 rpm I still have a slight miss for lack of a better word and white smoke out the back any ideas ? a friend thinks it could be the car needs a a good run now I have fitted the kit or because I have a new back box fitted but I am not so sure
Click to expand...

The TD4 2K misfire syndrome is common. Mine does it when the throttle is held above 2K. I thrash the ass off mine, so it's not that it's dirty.
 
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so does your vibrate when you drive above 2k ? and what is the white smoke anything to worry about ? I am thinking of getting it mapped at some stage and want to make sure it is ok to do that
 
tlo said:
so does your vibrate when you drive above 2k ? and what is the white smoke anything to worry about ? I am thinking of getting it mapped at some stage and want to make sure it is ok to do that
Click to expand...



While driving my TD4 engine and the rest of the vehicle is smooth as silk. There's no vibrations at any speed, up to the legal limit. There's no smoke either, unless I hold the revs at over 2K while stationary. The smoke starts after a few seconds of the throttle being held down. It only smokes and misfires while being held off load. I think it's oil being drawn through the breather system. My smoke is pale blue not white. White smoke would indicate a bad injector or cold engine.

I've found the TSB for the sensor harness installation.
 

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  • TD4 PRESSURE SWITCH INSTRUCTIONS.pdf
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Thank you as always Nodge but for the life of me I can still find no reference to the two items , unless something drastic happens I am going to leave the prop shaft on now till spring then take it off see if the vibration stops I do know that the main diff mount and at least one of the vcu bearings need changing . Knowing my luck it will be something else,When I revved the car I don't think the engine was cold but having said that I only took it out for 5 mins to check the new loom was working so it was not exactly warm
 
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