Flat battery "not"

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Handbag

Member
Posts
27
Location
Wirral
So new owner 30 year old defender 90. Go to out today on the motorway and pull over at the shops. Jump back in a turning over really slowly and won't start. I'm outside halfords and they use a jumper pack and start it for free. Get home take the battery out 10 mins later fully charged, it would appear not a flat battery as when I put it back in cranks over fine. The alternator looks brand new and no visible signs of a problem. Although I have noticed that sometimes it cracks over slower than other times but most of the time it starts fine even if I haven't used it for a week or so? Ideas
 
Thanks all, honestly I get most of that apart from battery positive to starter motor and block to chassis earth. Yes yes I know, I work in an office.....
 
Thanks all, honestly I get most of that apart from battery positive to starter motor and block to chassis earth. Yes yes I know, I work in an office.....
The + or positive on the battery goes direct to the starter motor, remove and clean/replace. The - or negative on the battery goes to metal somewhere(trace it from the battery) remove and clean. You should have another negative cable coming from somewhere on the engine or gearbox going to the chassis. All cables will be on the starter motor side of the chassis/engine.
Do the earth's/negatives/ground (same thing just different terminology) connections first as they are easiest to do and are first to play up usually.
 
Basically you have a duff battery or duff cables from battery to starter motor (the +bit) or duff cable from battery to chassis/engine block (the -bit)
Plus a battery that charges up in 10 minutes is probably a shagged battery.

Extra earth cables from battery to chassis and engine are always a good idea.
 
Thanks chaps that’s super clear now. As per normal though nothing is ever simple as the battery positive appears to run via a red L shaped plug that pulls out and disconnects all power. I’m guessing this is a security measure as when I remove it there’s no power. I’ll work through all the connections and see where I end up after a good clean.
 
Red L shaped key sounds like an immoboliser / dead key/ battery isolator, we have them on lots of farm machinery. Lots of landy owners fit them, always useful if you need to do welding etc. (never i hear the masses say on a landy) saves getting the seat out to disconnect the battery. Ok as a security measure but 90% of them are on the same identical key.

Good luck

could be a lazy starter but i concur with the earlier posts loose or dirty connections first place to start and that is a "no cost option"
 
Thanks chaps that’s super clear now. As per normal though nothing is ever simple as the battery positive appears to run via a red L shaped plug that pulls out and disconnects all power. I’m guessing this is a security measure as when I remove it there’s no power. I’ll work through all the connections and see where I end up after a good clean.

Could be as simple as the red plug not making good contact.
 
Just had a thought, the serpentine belt squeaks now and then, I think it’s the belt or maybe a bearing. Would this account for the occasional flat battery
 
Back
Top