Flashing gearbox oil temperature light

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Kizzeh

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I started the rangie up the other day after after it has been standing for a month or so whilst i changed the steering column. Straight away from start up i had the red gearbox oil temperature light come on and flash repeatedly. Obviously there is no way it was over temperature as it came on straight away and i don't think the cooler would be blocked as again, it happened from cold.

First thing i checked was the oil level and the smell. A little below the max mark but nothing to worry about and the oil was fresh and clean. I took it for a run up the road incase it needed to settle down. I selected all gears and put in and out of low range and diff lock but no change to the flashing light.

My instincts suggest a faulty sensor or bad connection somewhere but surely that would show a solid light. All the searching on the internet i have found has been a solid light.

I am not overly familiar with auto transmissions or much about range rovers. Is there anything else i can do/ check before i spend £40 on a new sensor? I dont like playing shotgun with parts really


1984 3.5 auto
 
Earliest Manual I have is 1986 - and all that states is the light is on when GB is warm....no mention of flashing! (image attached)

I can only suggest this is a stray earth somewhere!

Maybe Alternator related if it can change with RPM....the Classic uses a feed from the D+ terminal (iirc) for the Alternator charge indication to the dash...but I could be wrong...if the Alternator is running low or the belt is slipping can cause the Alternator lamp to flash, maybe it is related and there is a stray earth or short in the binnacle somewhere....

EDIT: the GB Temp warning is also the Transfer Box warning...the circuit shows they are just switched to earth to bring the lamp on.....
 

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That may tie in with having to jump start it every time. I put a battery on for the MOT, it was a newish one i found at work that looked like it needed a home but after a few times left it struggled starting it. I put it down to a slow drain and not using it enough but it might well be the alternator gone wrong.
Alternator light hasnt been flashing and the belts are tight but i shall double check my outputs.

Would it be any use if i tried to video it?
 
had a play about today but not too long as i didnt have much time. I noticed the light flashed differently when i had my jump leads on (again) to when i had them off. I took videos of both. I think it has to be either bad connection somwhere or faulty alternater. Both would explain the lack of battery charge. Tomorrows job will be to check my connections and my main earths. I shall post videos when i work out how to upload them to youtube
 
had a play about today but not too long as i didnt have much time. I noticed the light flashed differently when i had my jump leads on (again) to when i had them off. I took videos of both. I think it has to be either bad connection somwhere or faulty alternater. Both would explain the lack of battery charge. Tomorrows job will be to check my connections and my main earths. I shall post videos when i work out how to upload them to youtube
defiantly seems Alternator/Battery/Earth related....
 
How odd....

I am defiantly leaning towards an alternator or earth fault....

Measure the Alternator output and ensure all the connections are tight.

Might be an idea and take the binnacle off and check the wiring/tracks on the inside...seems strange, but the Alt/Charge lamp is the one next door....wonder if there is something amiss in the binnacle and it is flashing the wrong lamp due to a short circuit or similar...
 
so i jump started it up again today. Checked voltage and had 13.5ish on tickover and 12.9ish with all lights on tickover. Not brilliant but still over 12.
Followed earth cable to inner with and chassis and cleaned contacts. Started it back up and removed earth cable to battery checked resistance from large + on back of alternater back to battery and found it 65 on the 200ohms setting. Bit high? i dont normally check resistance but thought i would check it to see if it made any sence to you lot?
Took the battery off and swapped it with the one on my freelander just incase the light came on with low battery voltage or changed flashing at all. Flashing was still happening but slowly. About the same speed as indicators.
Turned engine off and removed battery - lead. Set multimeter to amps and put wires between - terminal on battery and body earth. With my bonnet light on i got either 0.18 or 1.8 amps...pens run off my arm but i think thats allright.

It was getting dark, Nearly run out of fuel and i was getting frustrated. I will put the battery on charge to make my life easier for another day. Diddnt find the gearbox sensor as my torch run out of batterys. Would anyone be about to tell me where abouts it could be in an idiot proof way?
 
so i jump started it up again today. Checked voltage and had 13.5ish on tickover and 12.9ish with all lights on tickover. Not brilliant but still over 12.
Followed earth cable to inner with and chassis and cleaned contacts. Started it back up and removed earth cable to battery checked resistance from large + on back of alternater back to battery and found it 65 on the 200ohms setting. Bit high? i dont normally check resistance but thought i would check it to see if it made any sence to you lot?
Took the battery off and swapped it with the one on my freelander just incase the light came on with low battery voltage or changed flashing at all. Flashing was still happening but slowly. About the same speed as indicators.
Turned engine off and removed battery - lead. Set multimeter to amps and put wires between - terminal on battery and body earth. With my bonnet light on i got either 0.18 or 1.8 amps...pens run off my arm but i think thats allright.

It was getting dark, Nearly run out of fuel and i was getting frustrated. I will put the battery on charge to make my life easier for another day. Diddnt find the gearbox sensor as my torch run out of batterys. Would anyone be about to tell me where abouts it could be in an idiot proof way?
At 2K rpm you should have a minimum of 14.2 volts even with the lights on, I think your alternator is toast. Check the battery drain with the alternator connected and then disconnected, if the drain drops with the alternator disconeected, the alternator is fecked.
 
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