jonbill
New Member
- Posts
- 243
Last week, I broke my RRC by taking apart the diesel fuel injection pump without knowing how to put it back together again:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/m51-diesel-126043.html
Thanks to advice on this forum (esp. Wullie) I've just fixed it today.
It turns out its not so hard at all to replace seals on the M51 FIP, as long as you know a couple of things for the assembly.
so I'm posting some photos of it in case anyone else feels like having a go. (this info may be posted elsewhere, but I didn't find it, so a 2nd copy can't hurt)
Here's the top half with the 'dowel' sticking up that has to locate in a notch on a ring on the shaft in the bottom half (see later picture). you can also see the old gasket and the new gasket there - new one is visibly thicker.
Below is the bottom half, and highlighted is the notch that the dowel in the upper half has to locate in:
when you put it together again, the bolt holes in the top half are slotted, and this provides fine adjustment of the pump (not sure if its timing or mixture or what: but it makes the difference between running and not).
If (like me) you haven't marked the positions before removing, don't tighten when you reassemble: leave it just movable so you can slide it around while turning it over to get it to start. Then after it's started and warmed up, you slide it around a little more until its idling at the right speed.
If you're better than me, you might manage this without diesel spilling out everywhere. But I just let it spill out
when it was right, tighten the torx nuts up. I had to go and buy a new long, flexible torx driver to reach the nuts through the inlet manifold.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/m51-diesel-126043.html
Thanks to advice on this forum (esp. Wullie) I've just fixed it today.
It turns out its not so hard at all to replace seals on the M51 FIP, as long as you know a couple of things for the assembly.
so I'm posting some photos of it in case anyone else feels like having a go. (this info may be posted elsewhere, but I didn't find it, so a 2nd copy can't hurt)
Here's the top half with the 'dowel' sticking up that has to locate in a notch on a ring on the shaft in the bottom half (see later picture). you can also see the old gasket and the new gasket there - new one is visibly thicker.
Below is the bottom half, and highlighted is the notch that the dowel in the upper half has to locate in:
when you put it together again, the bolt holes in the top half are slotted, and this provides fine adjustment of the pump (not sure if its timing or mixture or what: but it makes the difference between running and not).
If (like me) you haven't marked the positions before removing, don't tighten when you reassemble: leave it just movable so you can slide it around while turning it over to get it to start. Then after it's started and warmed up, you slide it around a little more until its idling at the right speed.
If you're better than me, you might manage this without diesel spilling out everywhere. But I just let it spill out
when it was right, tighten the torx nuts up. I had to go and buy a new long, flexible torx driver to reach the nuts through the inlet manifold.
