P38A Fitting parking sensors.

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Grrrrrr

Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Full Member
Posts
19,270
Location
Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Today's job is fitting parking sensors. I got a Brees H-133. Instructions are translated from Chinese and bear no resemblance to the product. Sure some on here has fitted them?

I was expected a live and a ground wire. I've got: red, black, yellow, blue and then a grey one with a spade connector (female).

To get it to work I connected black to ground but then had to connect both red and yellow to reversing light. It works but flashes up E2 as it powers up each time. Without the yellow wire the sensors don't work. The blue doesn't seem to do anything. Just found another wire. White this time. So 6 wires!

Any ideas anyone? Am I missing something? Instructions supposed to be http://bit.ly/ECP_ParkingSensorManuals

Cheers.
 
wammers said:
Simplified parking sensor instructions. Fit towbar, reverse, wait for the crunch, stop reversing.
Click to expand...

I've already had to take her off my insurance because of that!

Found the printer stopped before all instructions were printed and it is a different unit to mine. So hope may be on the horizon. You ought to see the amount of mud wedged up behind my bumper though.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I've already had to take her off my insurance because of that!

Found the printer stopped before all instructions were printed and it is a different unit to mine. So hope may be on the horizon. You ought to see the amount of mud wedged up behind my bumper though.
Click to expand...

Mud in Buckinghamshire!!! :eek::eek:. I would be sending a strongly worded letter of complaint forthwith. :D:D
 
Aha. With the correct instructions things become clearer.

grey = Srial K connected. WTF? Ignore.
black = GND so ground correct.
Red = VCC+12V so that's +12V power.
Yellow= parking signal so plumb that into reversing wire.
White = speed signal. Ignore.
Blue = SWITH signal. No idea what that is. Ignore.
 
Will try and find time to look at your instructions later, (currently having to ensure the rigours of shopping), although I suspect you will have sorted it by then.

I have just acquired some, (very realistically priced), electric gate openers from France but they do not provide instructions in English so I am wading through the programming section translating with thd aid of Google!
 
Martian said:
Will try and find time to look at your instructions later, (currently having to ensure the rigours of shopping), although I suspect you will have sorted it by then.

I have just acquired some, (very realistically priced), electric gate openers from France but they do not provide instructions in English so I am wading through the programming section translating with thd aid of Google!
Click to expand...

Think I've got it right. Just wanted to check before I started drilling. Why it needs 3 wires when 2 would do is a mystery. Strangely, if I just use the yellow wire as a trigger (leave red constant 12V) the damn thing takes about 10 seconds after you come out of reverse before it stops beeping. Bugger that. Red and yellow both going into the reversing light circuit.
 
Dispiriting day. Famous last words: "2 bolts, 3 screws each side and the bumper just pops off."

Well, that was this morning. 1 bolt was a bit of a sod but came out (E16 Torx rather than E14 Torx I was expecting) and the other (actually is E14 Torx) is stuck solid. Plusgas hasn't touched it and now the head is well and truly rounded. Irwin Grip sockets won't grip (even with hammering). The bolt is recessed so you cannot get molegrips or similar on.

I'm pretty much resigned to drilling the f*cker out unless someone has a better idea? Cold out there so time for a cuppa to regroup and get some enthusiasm back.
 
Cannot drill the bolt out as the towing eye is in the way. Towing eye is welded to chassis. Top of bolt totally f*cked.

So, if I chisel the top off the bolt will the plastic bumper come off? More importantly, will it then be possible to get the metal bumper off so I can drill the stub or the bolt that will be left or does the bolt go all the way into the chassis and the towing eye would still be in the way?

Or can some maestro weld a second bolt to the remain of the first down the little recess somehow?

Any other ideas?
 
Put it all back together and sell the parking sensors on eBay?

When I had to take my bumper off to fit the LPG filler, I'm sure I ended up drilling the bolt head off, and then going at it with maul grips afterwards.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Dispiriting day. Famous last words: "2 bolts, 3 screws each side and the bumper just pops off."

Well, that was this morning. 1 bolt was a bit of a sod but came out (E16 Torx rather than E14 Torx I was expecting) and the other (actually is E14 Torx) is stuck solid. Plusgas hasn't touched it and now the head is well and truly rounded. Irwin Grip sockets won't grip (even with hammering). The bolt is recessed so you cannot get molegrips or similar on.

I'm pretty much resigned to drilling the f*cker out unless someone has a better idea? Cold out there so time for a cuppa to regroup and get some enthusiasm back.
Click to expand...
Have you got any impact sockets ? I hammered one (10mm I think) on to the bolt using an old short 1/2 in extension.It got a grip of the bolt and the knocking helped free off the bolt.
 
tomcat59alan said:
Have you got any impact sockets ? I hammered one (10mm I think) on to the bolt using an old short 1/2 in extension.It got a grip of the bolt and the knocking helped free off the bolt.
Click to expand...

No impact socket but I can buy some. Worth a try. Cheers.

Gorsky, if it screws into the chassis and the tow hook is in the way, how do you drill it? Was yours the off-side one? Recess doesn't allow for mole grips.
 
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