Fitting a light bar

Hi All,

I have a light bar with 6x18w cree spots on it and I have a few questions on fitting.

Firstly it looks like I need to drill two holes to fit the bar, I wondered if people here normally bolt or rivit the bar, I was thinking of bolting it on, not riviting.

For the wiring I'm going to use a switch and 40amp relay to a 10amp fuse (might do 15 as the lights will draw 9amp). Does this fit with how its done? I will run all the earths on the lights to a single cable and run this to either the chassis or to the bulk head. For the +ve I will run this to an aux fuse box.

Now when I had my Disco this was all obvious as the battery was under the bonnet, however with the battery under the seat I wondered where people have put thier Aux fuse box? I will be fitting a second bettery and charging relay under the seat. So I was thinking of 1 fuse box behind the pax seat which will run everything coming off the 2nd battery and one under the bonnett? If I do that where is the best route for the +ve from the battery to the busbar on the aux fuse box, perhaps under the car? This is where I need help and suggestions.

Thanks in advance....

I tapped into an existing supply behind the central fuse board with an in-line fuse, installed the relay behind the gauges and fitted the switch on the steering column where there is a blank for the choke cable on V8 models.
Can you mount the bar on the roof rack?

I mounted mine on the rollcage and bolted it down. My power comes from the second battery into a separate fuse box then over to the relay up in the roof behind the roof lining. Then out to the bar itself. Two ways of turning mine on. One is switch on my panel and other is with the high beam.

Remember that to make the lights legal for road use, they need to be wired so that they can only come on with the main beam, and turn off when you go to dipped beam. You can do this by feeding the switch and relay from the main beam connection. The blank space provided for the choke on a petrol model is the right size for a large toggle switch and is in roughly the right place, both for ergonomics and conveniently accessing the main beam wire.

You could fit the auxiliary fuse box under the bonnet if you wanted to. Power can be taken from the main terminal on the starter motor, and you'd just have to run the switched trigger wire for the relay through the bulkhead.