Fitting a Hybrid Turbo, any tips?

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bankz5152

bankz5152

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Evening,

While trying to fit my decat pipe ended up pulling the turbo off to get the downpipe off. Turbo came off pretty easily but 2 of the turbo/mainfold studs sheered :rolleyes: so it's either drill the studs out and nut/bolt it on or wait for my TD5inside hybrid turbo to arrive :cool: Ive decided to wait!

So any tips for fitting a new turbo? I know of got to use fresh engine oil, so im guessing ive got to use new oil filters too. Anything else?

A mate mentioned when you first fit a new turbo you've got to crank the engine without it firing to get the new turbo full of oil, how do I do this? If I have to?

Any other tips?

Cheers
 
bankz5152 said:
use fresh engine oil, so im guessing ive got to use new oil filters too. Anything else?
Click to expand...

New engine oil is a good call - and i'd change it soon afterwards to get any crud in the system out of it - this is a belt and braces approach, as with the TD5 centrifugal filter, I doubt much will get through anyway.... I might even leave the filters till the second oil change....

bankz5152 said:
A mate mentioned when you first fit a new turbo you've got to crank the engine without it firing to get the new turbo full of oil, how do I do this? If I have to?
Click to expand...

definitely worth priming the turbo before you start the engine - I wouldn't know how to do this with the starter motor on a TD5 as I don't do electronics!!
 
About that, yes. You want the detergents in the oil to do "their thing", and be drained before they are at capacity - IOW, more of a flush than a service, as it were... so its gonna depend on how much use it gets really....

When I'm faffing with turbo'd tractors, we'd change the oil after about 50 hours run - which, in the winter might be a long time - and in the summer might only be two to three days.... so a week of decent use seems about right to me..
 
bankz5152 said:
Ok I gotcha, so drain, fit turbo and prime with new oil manually, fill engine with new oil, drive about for a week or so, drain and new oil again happy days!

So in guna need 15L of oil :confused: lol
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nah nah do the above bit in bold - prime the turbo with a syringe or small bottle or something before you crank the engine, then at no point is the turbo empty of oil , then do the start without starting thing, crank it over until the oil pressure light goes out

The manual priming probably doesnt make much differnece but for the price of hybrid turbo i wouldnt risk it imo

i wonder if you could leave the turbo oil return line off then when oil comes out of it when cranking the engine you can be absolutely sure that the turbo is full of oil. reconnect line and start
 
bankz5152 said:
A mate mentioned when you first fit a new turbo you've got to crank the engine without it firing to get the new turbo full of oil, how do I do this?
Click to expand...
If you pull either relay R1 (Fuel) or relay R9 (Main) in the fusebox in the engine compartment you should be able to crank the engine without it firing
Disco1BFG said:
When I'm faffing with turbo'd tractors, we'd change the oil after about 50 hours run - which, in the winter might be a long time - and in the summer might only be two to three days.... so a week of decent use seems about right to me..
Click to expand...
You'd be hard pressed to squeeze 50 hours running into two days, you mean of course three days :D
 
Possibly yeah, ive got a big sryinge which ill use to force some oil into it, im guessing through the top where the banjo bolt connects?

Yup! 15L, 7.2L a go!

Pretty exicted to get it all fitted! Got to fit the Allisport IC as well, hopefully that isnt as much of a nut punch of a job as it was doing my 90!!
 
brian47 said:
You'd be hard pressed to squeeze 50 hours running into two days, you mean of course three days :D
Click to expand...

Actually, I said two TO three days - and on some of the big arable units, where the machinery literally never stops at harvest time - this is just over 2 days, so there, big bear :p

:D
 
brian47 said:
If you pull either relay R1 (Fuel) or relay R9 (Main) in the fusebox in the engine compartment you should be able to crank the engine without it firing

You'd be hard pressed to squeeze 50 hours running into two days, you mean of course three days :D
Click to expand...

Trying to work out where the Fuel Pump relay is? Where is it/where should it be on a 04 110 XS?

All ive been able to find is that its yellow?
 
bankz5152 said:
Trying to work out where the Fuel Pump relay is? Where is it/where should it be on a 04 110 XS?

All ive been able to find is that its yellow?
Click to expand...
Init wonderful when somebody asks about a Td5 problem and forgets that the Td5 engine was fitted into the Defender 90, 110 and 130 as well as the Discovery 2?
The fuel pump relay on the Disco 2 is in the fusebox under the bonnet.
I don't know where the fuel pump relay (R103) is located on the Defender, XS or otherwise. The fuse you could pull which will have the same effect is a 20 amp fuse, F4 in the "Fuse box-under seat".
 
Never actually done this but I read that they take off the oil return pipe and put it into a container when starting or just turning over, just to be 100% that the oil is going through the turbo.
Might be some reason why its never mentioned but I wondered why not disconnect the waste gate rod and push the gate wide open when you first fire it up, that should limit the exhaust to the turbo and restrict its speed, you could stop it and hook it back up after a few minutes.
 
Not a bad idea that!

Plan was fit the turbo, then poor a lottle oil in through the top where the banjo bolt connects, leave the return disconnected, basically poor until it comes out the return. Then connect everything up, the crank without starting.

Once everything is connected was going to start it up and let it idle for 10 minutes or so, then take it for a nice gentle drive until up to temp.
 
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