fitting 2" lift spacers to my 90

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Griffdowg

Griffdowg

New Member
Posts
7,194
Location
Somewhere in Bristol
hello once again,

did you all enjoy the LRO show?

1st one i have been to and i really enjoyed myself :)

i bought a load of stuff, namely a 2" lift kit. everyone has told me that they are easy to fit, rears more so than front. anyway, now that i have sat down and actually thought about it, and on reading the (g)haynes manual there is a mention of an "adjustable coil spring compressor" to pull the coil spring out i presume.

if im going to be using one of these wont i have to compress it some more to slot in a 2" spacer? also, where would one find such an item?

its all starting to sound very dangerous to me now and i dont like it! :eek: i might be posting on here soon minus my eyes...

if anyone has fitted these, can you please post a step by step procedure as im worried im going to mash myself and 90 up.

please help this newbie!

thanks in advance.

G
 
Dont know about spacers.... but fitting larger springs can be done by jacking up vehicle and getting someone to stand on the end of the axle..... giving enough room to fit springs.... perhaps this will save the need for the compression tool you will be using.
 
thats what i thought... think im getting my head around it now. ive emailed rich at mill services too asking for his advice. will pick up some spring compressors off my dad tomorrow :)
 
yella disco said:
you still need spring compressers to get the old ones out ;)
Click to expand...

Let me explain.... Your driving over an axle twister... your axle drops... spring dislocates. Hey-Presto.
Same principle with jacking and getting someone to stand on the axle. (No need for spring compressor);)
 
the problem with this method, even though it is feasible is a matter of accuracy, yes, i agree, undo all the bolts, jack the body up and hey presto, but the you need to fit the new spring then lower the boby down which is a bit hit and miss, yes i agree, if you were on an expedition and this was the case, fair enough but in a garage its just far easier to get a set of spring compressers. ;)
 
would the spring actually come out if you had one wheel off the ground? doesnt sound like good engineering to me... i thought i would have to take the axle to full extension and then compress the spring slightly in order to release it from the housing. if its just going to pop out then thats rubbish. also, how fast/hard does it pop out when someone stands on the axle? are their legs replaced with springs... like zebedee? think thats how you spell it.

anywhoooo.... cheers! i will sort it out in due coarse
 
ok, jack the car up on the chassis, remove the wheel, fit the spring compressers, then unbolt the spring and shocker, remove both, undo the compresser carefully, put the compressers on the new spring and wind em down evenly, fit the new spring, fit the new shocker, unwind the compressers till the bolts line up, fit the bolts, then remove the compressers, tighten the bolts, refit the wheel and bobs yer mothers brother ;)
 
almost... but im not fitting a new spring. im fitting a spacer between the spring and top hat :) i think i need to compress the spring by a further 2" to accom. the spacer.

cheers

G
 
Griffdowg said:
would the spring actually come out if you had one wheel off the ground? doesnt sound like good engineering to me... i thought i would have to take the axle to full extension and then compress the spring slightly in order to release it from the housing.
Click to expand...
It wouldn't just "come out" by jacking one wheel off the ground, needs additional pressure on the axle (i.e. a persons weight). A lot of off roaders buy dislocation cones purely for re-aligning the spring when it pops out... although if you fit jubilee clips to secure the top of the spring in place... it doesn't dislocate anyway... no-matter how hard you try.
You'll find most garages dont use spring compressors at all, as its quicker and easier to get the tea-boy to stand on the axle whilst you lift the spring out.
 
no pics yet... im going to do a before and after shot when i start :) will post them up once im done. yer basically it just adds space to the base of the spring. loads of people sell the solid CNC ones but ive been told these are no good because they dont have a hole to accom. the movement of the shocks on the front. and after time they wear pretty quickly. they also want 110 for 2" and 90 for 1".

check out http://www.mill-services.com/

i got steel ones off him for 60 sheets and they look like they will work better.
 
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