Freelander 1 F1 crankcase pulley

Freddie17 · 2025-09-09T09:48:45+0100

Ok… so it looks highly likely that the recent rattle and added bright metal chippings found yesterday around the pulleys on the F1 mean it will need a new crankcase pulley.
Have ordered a new one (and new belts) from AF, and a pulley holding tool from Jeff.

Advice on the forum is;
Don’t use impact tools - potential damage or worse to the crankshaft itself
Use the tool to hold the pulley, and even applied pressure with a breaker bar to loosen the bolt (heat on bolt?)
Old off, new on - big torque wrench out
add new belt - 24mm spanner to lever tensioner

Any other advice to try and make this job go as smoothly as possible?

(Haynes talks of all sorts of tools, and even removing the starter motor

)

Happy days

Arctic2 · 2025-09-09T10:30:27+0100

HI Freddie17.
Is the crank pulley a corteco one as most after market ones fail toot quick, link below and a few photos

TD4 crankshaft pulley.

Hi All. Can anyone tell me if the crankshaft pulley on the M47 motor is the same one in both Landrover and BMW applications? Mine needs replacing, I have a Dayco kit with a new mounting bolt on the way. However the locking tool I have bought doesn't fit the existing pulley on my car. The...

www.landyzone.co.uk

1

2

3

I use an aviation spanner cut down and also ground down so it fit between the pulley tensioner and the body of the chassis.

4

5

ON the Rover 75 i attack it from below.

6

7

But on the FL1 you should be able to remove the belt by access from the top to turn the tensioner.

While doing the crank pulley always good to change the belts at the same time, i prefer gates

8

But continental belts are good also.

9

10

Route for the belts.

11

Hopefully the holding tool you have fits.

Freddie17 · 2025-09-09T11:25:44+0100

Arctic2 said:
HI Freddie17.
Is the crank pulley a corteco one as most after market ones fail toot quick, link below and a few photos

TD4 crankshaft pulley.

Hi All. Can anyone tell me if the crankshaft pulley on the M47 motor is the same one in both Landrover and BMW applications? Mine needs replacing, I have a Dayco kit with a new mounting bolt on the way. However the locking tool I have bought doesn't fit the existing pulley on my car. The...

www.landyzone.co.uk

1

2

3

I use an aviation spanner cut down and also ground down so it fit between the pulley tensioner and the body of the chassis.

4

5

ON the Rover 75 i attack it from below.

6

7

But on the FL1 you should be able to remove the belt by access from the top to turn the tensioner.

While doing the crank pulley always good to change the belts at the same time, i prefer gates

8

But continental belts are good also.

9

10

Route for the belts.

11

Hopefully the holding tool you have fits.

Cheers Steve
It’s not Corteco but a known brand.
Have also ordered both the belts, so will be putting new on

Any tips on getting the bolt undone?

Arctic2 · 2025-09-09T11:55:29+0100

Freddie17 said:
Cheers Steve
It’s not Corteco but a known brand.
Have also ordered both the belts, so will be putting new on

Any tips on getting the bolt undone?

To undo the bolt use the tool to hold crank, good six side impact socket long bar with maybe a length of tube on it and turn slowly and it will come undone.

It can also be done by removing the starter motor so the flywheel can be locked along with the crank, if the tool is not available, but steady pressure is the key.

Tools i use.

1

2

This is on a R40 (Rover 75)

3

Proper holding tool which i sold when i got rid of the 75 and FL1

4

5

6

Freddie17 · 2025-09-09T12:45:58+0100

Arctic2 said:
To undo the bolt use the tool to hold crank, good six side impact socket long bar with maybe a length of tube on it and turn slowly and it will come undone.

It can also be done by removing the starter motor so the flywheel can be locked along with the crank, if the tool is not available, but steady pressure is the key.

Tools i use.

1

2

This is on a R40 (Rover 75)

3

Proper holding tool which i sold when i got rid of the 75 and FL1

4

5

6

Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey, normal bolt?
(Think the F2 that is the other way round…?)

andyfreelandy · 2025-09-09T12:59:06+0100

Normal direction thread. Stretch bolt so replace that too.

Freddie17 · 2025-09-09T13:12:42+0100

andyfreelandy said:
Normal direction thread. Stretch bolt so replace that too.

Comes in the box

Freddie17 · 2025-09-09T13:14:25+0100

Taking bets on how long to do it…

Clock starts when it is jacked up. Don't know if it’s ever been off before.

andyfreelandy · 2025-09-09T13:17:25+0100

Seeing as it is tightened to 300 + lb-ft, hopefully it's on more than a jack !! Clock or no clock

Freddie17 · 2025-09-09T13:21:20+0100

andyfreelandy said:
Seeing as it is tightened to 300 + lb-ft, hopefully it's on more than a jack !! Clock or no clock

Good point - I’ll rephrase for future readers …

Once in the air and safely secured on axle stands and more…

kernowsvenski · 2025-09-09T13:50:12+0100

Good luck sir

Freddie17 · 2025-09-09T14:26:54+0100

… I just know that if something ‘should’ take 2 hours, I’ll end up spending 4 trying to get it done

General LR rule - double what it should take, plus a little bit. Never done the crank pulley, so

Booked Friday off.

Now on the hunt for a nice piece of scaffold pole to go over my breaker bar…

Nodge68 · 2025-09-09T16:04:48+0100

Freddie17 said:
Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey, normal bolt?
(Think the F2 that is the other way round…?)

Both cars are standard Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.
For the FL1, it's best to use the tool to lock the pulley, as locking at the flywheel puts all the bolt torque through the cast iron crank, which isn't very strong at the timing chain end.

Freelander 2 has a much stronger steel crank, so bolt torque through the crank isn't a problem.

Freddie17 · 2025-09-09T20:09:28+0100

Nodge68 said:
Both cars are standard Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.
For the FL1, it's best to use the tool to lock the pulley, as locking at the flywheel puts all the bolt torque through the cast iron crank, which isn't very strong at the timing chain end.

Freelander 2 has a much stronger steel crank, so bolt torque through the crank isn't a problem.

Ta.
Got the tool on order.

I’ll check I have all knuckles left at the end…

Freelander 1 F1 crankcase pulley

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Arctic2

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TD4 crankshaft pulley.

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TD4 crankshaft pulley.

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