Freelander 1 Extended brake lines for lift kits??

300bhp/ton · Sep 4, 2023

Anyone know if you need extended brake lines for any of the lift kits?

I have emailed Muddymods, but no reply as of yet. And sadly their website is rather devoid of information.

I know they sell kits with or without brake lines. But I'm not seeing any info on if they are required at all?

Freelander 1 Lift Kits (All Sizes)

MuddyMods Lift Kit includes: Lift Kit Camber Bolts (NOT included for 30mm Lift Kits) Also available is our Lift Kit Bundle (Separate Listing) which includes: Lift Kit Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hoses Camber Bolts (NOT included for 30mm Lift Kits)

www.muddymods.com

Likewise I assume the ABS sensors don't need extending either?

On a similar note. Does anyone know what happens with the suspension travel with the different kits vs stock? I assume on a stock vehicle compression and extension are limited by the strut or is there a separate bump stop? As the spacer goes on top of the strut it is a bit like a quasi "body lift" as it lifts the body away from upper suspension mount and not having an upper control Arm doesn't cause the same bother as other IFS/IRS setups. It does leave the diff in place, so I assume CV angle changes with the lift. And I'm also guessing total suspension travel from full compression to full droop remains the same as stock, just happening further away from the body (by however much the lift block is, i.e. 40mm).

GrumpyGel · Sep 5, 2023

Don't take my words as gospel, but I think its the 50mm kits that require brake (& ABS?) lines extended and cuts into the bodywork/chassis (at front). I think you can get away without those with smaller lifts - but may be wrong.

You're right about the CV's 'enabling' the lift. Some will say this does not affect life of the drive shafts, but I'm sure it will, and if you do 'average mileage' then you'll be dramatically increasing the likelyhood of drive shaft's needing replacement.

I've always assumed suspension travel was unchanged with a Freelander lift. I think the only way to after that is with aftermarket shock and springs - which can also give a lift. A lot more expensive than 4 lumps of ally. I think @htr used Dobinson springs on his F1, but retained standard shocks. IIRC this gave him about a 20mm lift, a ride more to his liking and a bit more travel, but not much.

300bhp/ton · Sep 6, 2023

Thanks. Still nothing from Muddy mods

Would be nice to know for sure, as the stainless brake lines massively increase the cost.

Alibro · Sep 6, 2023

Have a look at this

Freelander 1 - How to fit a 50mm Lift Kit

So you want to fit a lift kit, DON'T DO IT YOU PLONKER! Since you're determined to ignore my advice read on, but don't say you weren't warned! Here are my pearls of wisdom/stupidity/experience (delete as appropriate) Disclaimer. This is how I did it, I don't suggest it is the correct method or...

www.landyzone.co.uk

As mentioned in the first paragraph don't go for the 50mm kit unless you really really need it. the 30mm or 40mm kits are easier to fit.
I don't remember changing the front brakes but had to replace the brake pipes at the rear as they broke when being loosened.

Wilko74 · Jan 9, 2025

Alibro said:
Have a look at this

Freelander 1 - How to fit a 50mm Lift Kit

So you want to fit a lift kit, DON'T DO IT YOU PLONKER! Since you're determined to ignore my advice read on, but don't say you weren't warned! Here are my pearls of wisdom/stupidity/experience (delete as appropriate) Disclaimer. This is how I did it, I don't suggest it is the correct method or...

www.landyzone.co.uk

As mentioned in the first paragraph don't go for the 50mm kit unless you really really need it. the 30mm or 40mm kits are easier to fit.
I don't remember changing the front brakes but had to replace the brake pipes at the rear as they broke when being loosened.

Would it not be easier to have 2 stub shafts made for the end of the steering arm to raise it up instead of bruitalising the car?

Alibro · Jan 9, 2025

Wilko74 said:
Would it not be easier to have 2 stub shafts made for the end of the steering arm to raise it up instead of bruitalising the car?

Can you explain what you mean by brutalising and what the stub shafts are for, where we can have them made and how much would they be.

kernowsvenski · Jan 9, 2025

I'm told by those in the know that 30mm kits do not need extended hoses, but anything more does.

Wilko74 · Jan 9, 2025

Alibro said:
Can you explain what you mean by brutalising and what the stub shafts are for, where we can have them made and how much would they be.

Cutting and then hammering the chasis to suit the steering arm is dramatic. If a short shaft can be made to raise the steering arm up so the body work doesn't need cutting and hammering would the not be easier.

300bhp/ton · Jan 10, 2025

Wilko74 said:
Cutting and then hammering the chasis to suit the steering arm is dramatic. If a short shaft can be made to raise the steering arm up so the body work doesn't need cutting and hammering would the not be easier.

Disagree, it is not dramatic, it is a bit of tin. It really is odd they made the hole so small in the first place. And while it is unibody construction, I'm not sure you could call that bit a stressed member of the chassis.

Your solution I would think would introduce more bump steer, which would be undesirable in my opinion.

Alibro · Jan 10, 2025

kernowsvenski said:
I'm told by those in the know that 30mm kits do not need extended hoses, but anything more does.

I had a 50mm lift kit and standard hoses so this is not correct.

Wilko74 said:
Cutting and then hammering the chasis to suit the steering arm is dramatic. If a short shaft can be made to raise the steering arm up so the body work doesn't need cutting and hammering would the not be easier.

This is the main reason why I tell everyone to avoid the 50mm lift kit.
I guess it would be possible to have a piece of steel turned on a lathe that the TRE screws into one side and the other mimic's the shape of the TRE cone and bolt but good luck getting someone to make it.

300bhp/ton said:
Disagree, it is not dramatic, it is a bit of tin. It really is odd they made the hole so small in the first place. And while it is unibody construction, I'm not sure you could call that bit a stressed member of the chassis.

Your solution I would think would introduce more bump steer, which would be undesirable in my opinion.

I'm afraid I agree with Wilko on this point. The Chassis leg is a structural part supporting the engine and gearbox and probably the thickest steel in the body so any cutting of it is very undesirable even if it's welded up after.

Would this cause bump steer or prevent it? I drove with the 50mm lift kit for a year or so and despite of the dire warnings of a long gone member I couldn't detect any noticeable change in the steering characteristics, however raising the height is bound to have some effect.

Alibro · Jan 10, 2025

300bhp/ton said:
Anyone know if you need extended brake lines for any of the lift kits?

I have emailed Muddymods, but no reply as of yet. And sadly their website is rather devoid of information.

I know they sell kits with or without brake lines. But I'm not seeing any info on if they are required at all?

Freelander 1 Lift Kits (All Sizes)

MuddyMods Lift Kit includes: Lift Kit Camber Bolts (NOT included for 30mm Lift Kits) Also available is our Lift Kit Bundle (Separate Listing) which includes: Lift Kit Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hoses Camber Bolts (NOT included for 30mm Lift Kits)

www.muddymods.com

Likewise I assume the ABS sensors don't need extending either?

On a similar note. Does anyone know what happens with the suspension travel with the different kits vs stock? I assume on a stock vehicle compression and extension are limited by the strut or is there a separate bump stop? As the spacer goes on top of the strut it is a bit like a quasi "body lift" as it lifts the body away from upper suspension mount and not having an upper control Arm doesn't cause the same bother as other IFS/IRS setups. It does leave the diff in place, so I assume CV angle changes with the lift. And I'm also guessing total suspension travel from full compression to full droop remains the same as stock, just happening further away from the body (by however much the lift block is, i.e. 40mm).

Sorry I missed this post so will try to answer now.
Brake lines were standard in my car, likewise ABS sensors.
No idea about bump stops, I never checked.
I think you're right about suspension travel but I found the car drove pretty much like a standard Freelander and the tyres will make more difference.
My tuppence worth is if you want to fit a lift kit get a 40mm one and bigger tyres for the extra 10mm. Bigger tyres will give you more ground clearance anyway due to the rear diff.
The lift kit will cause the rear wheels to move forward unless you extend the suspension arms so a higher lift kit may reduce the size of tyres you can fit.

mystery · Jan 10, 2025

I would check the front rear drivers side subframe bolt to see if its still attached to the chassis,why land rover used 14mm bolt passing through a 17mm sub frame mount hole into a 18mm chassis spacing tube into a 14mm square anchor nut held by a flimsy cage .on my 2002 model the nut can be viewed by a round clip-in cover under the rear carpet ,I would factor in replacing the rear brake cylinders ,the hoses,poss brake hose anchor clips and the rear brake pipes as the flange headed fixings and brake pipe unions will be corroded making their removal a task in it's self

kernowsvenski · Jan 10, 2025

Alibro said:
I had a 50mm lift kit and standard hoses so this is not correct.

I stand corrected Sir!

Freelander 1 Extended brake lines for lift kits??

300bhp/ton

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Freelander 1 Lift Kits (All Sizes)

GrumpyGel

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Alibro

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Freelander 1 - How to fit a 50mm Lift Kit

Wilko74

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Freelander 1 - How to fit a 50mm Lift Kit

Alibro

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kernowsvenski

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Wilko74

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Freelander 1 Lift Kits (All Sizes)

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