Engine swap, no start

Hi.
After an eventful bank Holiday last weekend putting the new engine in and making sure all levels are topped up and everything all connected and bleed the fuel system making sure diesel is getting through to injectors.
The problem I have is that the engine cranks over nice and freely but the dame thing won't fire up, eml light is on and showing reduced engine performance on the dash, fault code is show P2562 – Turbocharger boost control position sensor circuit
would this fault cause a issue with the none start or is this only related to when the engine is running.
I've spent today changing over the high pressure pump and the throttle body as I've read that these can cause problems with none starting.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated as I'm at my wits end with this.
Many thanks

Probably something not connected, perhaps even the immobiliser armed

freelance said:

Probably something not connected, perhaps even the immobiliser armed

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Have double checked everything and all seems to be plugged in where it should be.

1 or 2?
Possibly a sensor… faulty cam position sensor will prevent a td4 from firing on a 1 (but will crank)

Freddie17 said:

1 or 2?
Possibly a sensor… faulty cam position sensor will prevent a td4 from firing on a 1 (but will crank)

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FL2 2.2 2010,
Fired some brake cleaner up the intake this morning and it tried to start, so thinking injector issue not delivering diesel.

frosty18 said:

FL2 2.2 2010,
Fired some brake cleaner up the intake this morning and it tried to start, so thinking injector issue not delivering diesel.

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I’d double-check the sensors first… 9/10 times it’s the easiest stuff.

frosty18 said:

FL2 2.2 2010,
Fired some brake cleaner up the intake this morning and it tried to start, so thinking injector issue not delivering diesel.

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There could be any number of reasons why the injectors are not supplying fuel, and only 1 of them is the injectors themselves.

Also unlikely to be multiple injectors gone, if some were going, presumably it would run, just rough.

More likely is that the injectors are not being activated - so they are not being told to inject by the ECU for some reason. That "some reason" is the difficult bit

GrumpyGel said:

There could be any number of reasons why the injectors are not supplying fuel, and only 1 of them is the injectors themselves.

Also unlikely to be multiple injectors gone, if some were going, presumably it would run, just rough.

More likely is that the injectors are not being activated - so they are not being told to inject by the ECU for some reason. That "some reason" is the difficult bit

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This might shed a bit more light on the subject, forgot to mention car has been sat for almost a year with half the engine dismantled and parts sat in boot including the injectors so cold and damp could have damaged them and preventing the operate.

You could say that about all the bits though.

frosty18 said:

This might shed a bit more light on the subject, forgot to mention car has been sat for almost a year with half the engine dismantled and parts sat in boot including the injectors so cold and damp could have damaged them and preventing the operate.

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Were they kept upright? if not, it's likely the fuel has run out, leaving the Piezo valves to dry out over such a long period. If so, the injectors are scrap. The DTC relating to the turbo actuator will give you drivability problems, but not starting issues.

Graculus said:

Were they kept upright? if not, it's likely the fuel has run out, leaving the Piezo valves to dry out over such a long period. If so, the injectors are scrap. The DTC relating to the turbo actuator will give you drivability problems, but not starting issues.

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Unfortunately they were laying down in a box, but not my doing.

Have them tested would be my next step.

Graculus said:

Have them tested would be my next step.

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I did a continuity test on all injectors today and all reading around 182.7 ohms, i know that this only tells me that the circuit is good, is there anyway that I can test the actual injector itself.

Not without some non-fleabay testing equipment - better to find a diesel specialist and let them check against specification.
As you seem to know, the internal resistance is only part of the picture.

Graculus said:

Not without some non-fleabay testing equipment - better to find a diesel specialist and let them check against specification.
As you seem to know, the internal resistance is only part of the picture.

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Thanks, will look at getting them tested or would it be just as easier to buy 4 reconditioned injectors.

Find somewhere to test them and get a price for both options, it'd be 'easier' but won't necessarily be a fix.

I'd also suggest doing a compression test whilst the injectors are out, a variance of 4Bar from highest to lowest is the maximum acceptable. Any more and you need to consider your options.

Hi guy's
Still having issue regarding engine not firing, I have replaced cam sensor and crank sensor but still no joy.
My next step was to check feed to injector plugs by using test light on each terminal of the plugs and cranking engine to see if the light would flash indicating pulse feed to injectors, but no flashing was visible would this indicate an ecu fault or is there something else that would cause no pulse feed to injectors.

What were the results of having the injectors tested and a compression test?
A test light would be unlikely to show anything due to the short duration of injector pulses (and the high voltage) Be careful disconnecting piezo injectors, they can 'freeze' in the open position.

Still keeping it simple and trying to isolate the issue - and it ‘trying’ to start on a spray of cold start… is the fuel actually getting through to the rail and on to the injectors?
You say the car has sat for over a year, is the fuel even any good? There could be all sorts of cr@p blocking something somewhere. That would be my next hunting ground, after the sensors.
Have you run any diag on it?