Electrical Wizard needed. Alarm to CDL connection

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Al2O3

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I'm currently installing a central locking system by Hawk Alarms. The control unit of the CDL system has one brown and one white wire coming from it, which the company say can connect to an alarm system so that they operate together. ie a lock and unlock wire.
I was hoping to connect these to the Land Rover 10AS box (mines a 1996 Defender) as it has lock and unlock pins.
10AS%20Greenplug_zpsbxhl7h8h.png

I've emailed the Hawk company, but their reply was very brief and just said their white and brown wires only worked with their alarm. No explanation. Admittedly, I'm no electrician. So, can't understand why the CDL can't be triggered by another alarm system.

Saint.V8 here on LZ wondered this:
The system uses a negative pulse for lock and unlock on the brown and white wires (not sure which one is which - but it is in the manual) I believe the 10AS issues a positive pulse (you will have to check) but with a couple of relays (one for the lock signal and one for the unlock signal) you can convert the pulse round.

Can any of you electrical engineers tell me if it's do-able, or am I wasting my time trying to find a solution.
 
I'm currently installing a central locking system by Hawk Alarms. The control unit of the CDL system has one brown and one white wire coming from it, which the company say can connect to an alarm system so that they operate together. ie a lock and unlock wire.
I was hoping to connect these to the Land Rover 10AS box (mines a 1996 Defender) as it has lock and unlock pins.
10AS%20Greenplug_zpsbxhl7h8h.png

I've emailed the Hawk company, but their reply was very brief and just said their white and brown wires only worked with their alarm. No explanation. Admittedly, I'm no electrician. So, can't understand why the CDL can't be triggered by another alarm system.

Saint.V8 here on LZ wondered this:
The system uses a negative pulse for lock and unlock on the brown and white wires (not sure which one is which - but it is in the manual) I believe the 10AS issues a positive pulse (you will have to check) but with a couple of relays (one for the lock signal and one for the unlock signal) you can convert the pulse round.

Can any of you electrical engineers tell me if it's do-able, or am I wasting my time trying to find a solution.
I'm looking at doing the same thing (96 300 TDI and same CDL, unfortunately I'm in the process of getting the house ready for sale and have put the CDL kit in storage (along with a load of other stuff as part of the declutter requirement). That said I am also an electronics engineer, irrespective of whether signals out of the 10AS are positive / negative pulses or the CDL requires negative / positive input pulses it is possible to convert one to the other and vice versa. The only time you would have an interface issue is where a data bus is used, however this kit is simple switching. If you don't get a response from anyone else I'll try an get the kit out of storage to figure out what input it requires to lock / unlock. Would also need to have a probe around the 10AS to see what the outputs are and then design a simple interface.
 
Awesome! Starman, never mind Kwakerman :)
There's not a lot to the kit. I can put pictures on tomorrow to save you unpacking boxes.
 
The green connector C0057R pins 2 & 3 are the cdl output from the 10AS unit, they don't all have this wired up but if you open the unit they are the same inside and I have soldered wires onto the PCB for cdl in the past. the two outputs change polarity for lock and unlock respectivly. There is also a signal input to the 10AS unit on the grey connector C0061R-7 which comes from the master cdl servo. I don't know which way round the voltage is for lock and unlock as I have never tested one, just fitted the servos and wired them up. Coo61R-25 is a feed to the 10AS which is fused 20A and I suspect this is the feed for the cdl servos.
 
Thanks owl. That sounds interesting and hopeful.
I can't see an input for the 10AS from the master CDL servo.
Here is the Hawk CDL wiring diagram.
CDL%20Wiring%20Diagram_zpsqned6zck.jpg

You will know the pin layout of the grey connector, but as far as I know, this is it.
10AS%20GREYPLUG_zps0da7mnan.png
 
SUCCESSFULLY DONE! - using the wisdom of this site I managed to modify the 10AS Alarm box to give CDL output, install Hawk alarm system, and get both operating on the LR key fob. At risk of repetition it went like this:

1. Install all Hawk actuators - quite straightforward although I broke a few door latch knob surrounds when removing the door cards - and of course the door card press studs

2. Route all wires back somewhere near the fuse box and check it all works when attached to the Hawk wireless box

3. Removed AS10 box - as someone pointed out they do seem to have built the Defender (2002) around it, but by removing only the gauge panel and Speaker and using long flexible screwdrivers I got it out.

4. Open up the AS10 (serial number ending 70) and there are blank spaces for the missing CDL transistor and relay

5. Purchase these off ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152336116619?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT - excellent kit for just £7.99

upload_2017-1-24_16-23-42.png


6. Melt solder off the PCBs at indicated locations (good instructions with kit) - position transistor and relay and solder on with fine tip iron

7. Purchase green plug for 10AS http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151466538550?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT - excellent delivery again

upload_2017-1-24_16-16-18.png


8. With some half decent 2 core cable fit pins from purchased plug and slide into the back of existing plug (PINS 2 & 3) till they click into place. Took a few goes to get it right and I got through a few pins in the process trying - you may be able to source just pins rather than wasting the plug but I would not know what to ask for so took no chances.

9. Route the 2 core cable to where the other CDL cables are

10. Now here's the thing. I originally thought I'd use these wires to trigger the Hawk alarm system on the 2 external wires provided. I read a lot of stuff about positive and negative pulses and the need to swap these over using 2 additional relays etc. which was a bit beyond me (I tried connecting them directly but the CDL just opened and closed repeatedly). I was finding it hard to accommodate the Hawk CDL box anyway - it is too big to hide behind the fuse box panel. The simplest thing to do as it turns out is to throw away the Hawk box - collect together all of the wires from the CDL actuators and connect them directly to your new wires - the AS10S box will power everything that needs powering when you press the alarm buttons. Result is much less wire to hide, throw away the Hawk box, and the throw away the Hawk fobs (which we a bit sticky). Everything works a treat. The Hawk system was so cheap to buy I don't mind the waste.

11. DOWNSIDE - the only downside is that you do not have a master actuator on the drivers door. No biggy for me - I believe that this could be achieved using one of the 3 remaining wires of the drivers door actuator but I was happy with this solution. I now get out of the car - press the alarm - the lights flash - and the doors all lock.
 
That looks awesome. :) The links, pictures and walk through are excellent. I think this will be saved as summer job. Cheers! :D
I'm hoping a 10AS box in a 1996 Defender is the same as a 10AS box in a 2002 model. Does anyone know?
 
I've been told by a Land Rover auto electrician that they're 'the same'. But whilst it's someone who's opinion I trust, I haven't done my own experiments so can't vouch for it firsthand.
 
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