Electrical issue not really related to my Freelander

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GrumpyGel

GrumpyGel

Well-Known Member
Posts
26,768
Location
Christchurch, New Zealand
My son has a Rover 220 Turbo. If he leaves it overnight, the car will start fine. If he leaves it for 2 days though, the battery is completely flat - not even enough juice to light the ignition bulbs when you turn the key.

If there's a short somewhere, would that be enough to completely drain the battery in 48 hours? The battery is of the right capacity for the car and is only a couple of months old (I got it for him!), but could it be dud?

It was fine when the battery first went in. I think the problems started when I tried to jump start the (L Series) Freelander with it (I'd had the drive belt off and started it a few times and drained the battery). It didn't have enough grunt to turn the Freelander over even with its engine running. Tried lots of times and the jump leads got rather warm. I've subsequently tried in reverse - ie Freelander jumping the 220 and once again the 220 won't turn over - so the leads have probably see better days.

He did bodge some wiring on the rear number plate light a few months ago to get it through a WOF, but I'm sure that's been fine since (ie wasn't draining the battery). He's also got an issue with the door open light on his dash - it doesn't go out - so that could be a good possible - but would it completely drain the battery over 48 hours?

I know this isn't Freelander, but it may have been the cause :) and any advice would be appreciated.
 
Get an ammeter on there and look for a current draw with everything "off". Take out the fuse for the obvious things like the clock, etc. If there is a current being drawn then start unplugging fuses until you locate the offending circuit/s. Once you know that you're then down to checking individual devices.

Regarding your jump starting experiment, no idea if that could shag a battery.
 
I would be looking into the door-open light....if the alarm/immob system thinks a door is still open it might be keeping some circuits active somewhere.

My Freelander has a battery drain problem that meant it would be too flat to start the car if I left it for two or three days - With an ammeter in series with the battery and pulling fuses one by one I still never got to the bottom of it.
This was compounded by a ****y battery which was less than a year old. I now have a big Varta on it and it always starts. I havent checked if the power drain is still present lately, but I hear a lot about modern battery failures. It seems that up till a few years ago a failing battery would gradually decline over a long period of time but would still keep you going in the meantime until you replaced it but now they often just suddenly, completely fail pretty much from one day to the next.
 
dave21478 said:
I would be looking into the door-open light....if the alarm/immob system thinks a door is still open it might be keeping some circuits active somewhere.

My Freelander has a battery drain problem that meant it would be too flat to start the car if I left it for two or three days - With an ammeter in series with the battery and pulling fuses one by one I still never got to the bottom of it.
This was compounded by a ****y battery which was less than a year old. I now have a big Varta on it and it always starts. I havent checked if the power drain is still present lately, but I hear a lot about modern battery failures. It seems that up till a few years ago a failing battery would gradually decline over a long period of time but would still keep you going in the meantime until you replaced it but now they often just suddenly, completely fail pretty much from one day to the next.
Click to expand...

this must be a common problem as i fitted a new battery, after two days gone flat , was only a very cheap one

going to invest in a bigger varta battery as im sick of keep trying to use a quick starter on it

put a hawkeye and multimeter on the car and couldn't find any drain what so ever, the alternator is charging fine

on my old series 3 had a big bosch battery that would last at least a fortnight and still have plenty of guts in it

did wonder if maybe the starter motor is getting tired and causing a heavier load on the battery as they get older ??
 
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Obviously there is a current drain. I'd unplug the alternator and see if that keeps the battery from going flat. I've come across alternators with duff diodes that cause the battery to discharge.
 
GrumpyGel said:
My son has a Rover 220 Turbo. If he leaves it overnight, the car will start fine. If he leaves it for 2 days though, the battery is completely flat - not even enough juice to light the ignition bulbs when you turn the key.

If there's a short somewhere, would that be enough to completely drain the battery in 48 hours? The battery is of the right capacity for the car and is only a couple of months old (I got it for him!), but could it be dud?

It was fine when the battery first went in. I think the problems started when I tried to jump start the (L Series) Freelander with it (I'd had the drive belt off and started it a few times and drained the battery). It didn't have enough grunt to turn the Freelander over even with its engine running. Tried lots of times and the jump leads got rather warm. I've subsequently tried in reverse - ie Freelander jumping the 220 and once again the 220 won't turn over - so the leads have probably see better days.

He did bodge some wiring on the rear number plate light a few months ago to get it through a WOF, but I'm sure that's been fine since (ie wasn't draining the battery). He's also got an issue with the door open light on his dash - it doesn't go out - so that could be a good possible - but would it completely drain the battery over 48 hours?

I know this isn't Freelander, but it may have been the cause :) and any advice would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

hope this isn't a daft question but is the boot light sticking on, as it wouldnt be noticed

just a thought ??

plus just seen this about ecus draining the battery overnight

http://www.ecutesting.com/rover_flat_battery_draining_ov.html
 
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I think the battery is an 'Exide' brand.

My son is becoming and even bigger pain than he usually is! I've got enough worries with our Freelander at the mo without having to worry about his car, but its impacting us. He can't be bothered to fix it and uses our 'backup' Starlet. As he started full time employment last week he's using it for work so have just the Freelander between me, my wife and daughter - which we only got back from the garage last week after timing belt/tensioner/idler change to fix a very worrying worn bearing noise - but it hasn't resolved it and we've got family arriving in a week and the Freelander's our wheels for a a 3K KMs road trip!

Grrr. He moans like f**k that the car is s**t and has loads of problems - but I keep telling him that it hasn't had that many problems, what has occured has been cheap to fix and if he resolved them when they occur they wouldn't build up and he wouldn't think that.

I might as well talk to a brick wall though - because he is 'always right'!

I feel something is going to hit the fan this month!
 
daft question with battery drain, but how have u guys tested

I've always removed the neg lead off the battery, linked the multimeter in series, checked the voltage to see what it is and checked over a period of time of what the volts are

is the correct way plse, sorry asking a dim question guys

thks as always
 
GrumpyGel said:
I think the battery is an 'Exide' brand.

My son is becoming and even bigger pain than he usually is! I've got enough worries with our Freelander at the mo without having to worry about his car, but its impacting us. He can't be bothered to fix it and uses our 'backup' Starlet. As he started full time employment last week he's using it for work so have just the Freelander between me, my wife and daughter - which we only got back from the garage last week after timing belt/tensioner/idler change to fix a very worrying worn bearing noise - but it hasn't resolved it and we've got family arriving in a week and the Freelander's our wheels for a a 3K KMs road trip!

Grrr. He moans like f**k that the car is s**t and has loads of problems - but I keep telling him that it hasn't had that many problems, what has occured has been cheap to fix and if he resolved them when they occur they wouldn't build up and he wouldn't think that.

I might as well talk to a brick wall though - because he is 'always right'!

I feel something is going to hit the fan this month!
Click to expand...

how about buying him a quick boost battery starter and saying here u go, lol
 
Thanks for the heads up on this. His is the T (or O?) Series - getting my codes confused here - but probably a similar ECU technology - could be a reason. Looks like the multi-meter's going to be working overtime.

gstuart said:
hope this isn't a daft question but is the boot light sticking on, as it wouldnt be noticed

just a thought ??

plus just seen this about ecus draining the battery overnight

Rover battery draining over night common fault
Click to expand...
 
gstuart said:
how about buying him a quick boost battery starter and saying here u go, lol
Click to expand...

I've spent more on his car since he got it than he has, and basically had enough. If he was to be proactive and put effort in to try and keep it on the road, I'd be more willing to help out. I've tried to encourage him, work with him on things - but he still can't be bothered to look after it.
 
GrumpyGel said:
I've spent more on his car since he got it than he has, and basically had enough. If he was to be proactive and put effort in to try and keep it on the road, I'd be more willing to help out. I've tried to encourage him, work with him on things - but he still can't be bothered to look after it.
Click to expand...

oh well a gallon of petrol it is then, lol

yes i understand, when my son got his first car made sure I helped him but as long as he was listening, lol

how's ur freelander going or is that a sore point, at least i said it from a distance, lol
 
can u quickly give me an opinion the meters over got are

are these good enough to do a full test or arnt they any good

thks again
 

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gstuart said:
oh well a gallon of petrol it is then, lol

yes i understand, when my son got his first car made sure I helped him but as long as he was listening, lol

how's ur freelander going or is that a sore point, at least i said it from a distance, lol
Click to expand...

Its a bit of a sore point - but more so a very worrying point.

At Christmas I noticed a sound like a worn bearing coming from the timing belt area of the L Series. Couldn't do anything till almost mid Jan as everywhere closes shop over new year as its summer holiday season. The noise was there when cold but went when warm.

Knowing we had this 'road trip' coming up and knowing what damage the timing belt letting go can do, I had it all replaced. Now when the engine is cold there's no noise, but once warm the noise is back and louder. Got a week till the reli's arrive, so no time to do anything now and we'll have to cross our fingers and hope it holds out.

As I say, I'm sure something's going to hit the fan!
 
gstuart said:
can u quickly give me an opinion the meters over got are

are these good enough to do a full test or arnt they any good

thks again
Click to expand...


I've always removed the neg lead off the battery, linked the multimeter in series, checked the voltage to see what it is and checked over a period of time of what the volts are
Click to expand...

nup - you measure amps in series, not volts.

The meter on the left is no use, its only rated for AC amps, not DC.

The one on the right should be fine. Black lead in the COM socket and the red in the left one marked 20A. set the dial to 20A and disconnect one battery terminal and put the meter in series between the battery and the terminal. This will show current being drawn.
Remember than when you initially connect it you will get a burst of relatively high current drawn as the rear window drops. Close the window, tape the bonnet switch down so it thinks its closed and set the alarm. The current should drop down quite low once all the ECUs power down. I have a thread somewhere with my readings - cant remember them offhand.

EDIT - its here.....
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/anyone-td4-multimeter-244578.html

I have since re-wired the suspect relay so its not live all the time.
 
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gstuart said:
daft question with battery drain, but how have u guys tested

I've always removed the neg lead off the battery, linked the multimeter in series, checked the voltage to see what it is and checked over a period of time of what the volts are

is the correct way plse, sorry asking a dim question guys

thks as always
Click to expand...

I hope you mean linking the multimeter in series with the battery and measuring the current draw (amps) with the meter in the amps position.

DO NOT leave it in circuit when starting your car a it will simply melt it. Most multimeters can't handle more than 10 amps.

Voltage is measure by putting a multimeter in parallel.
 
What sort of figure would be 'normal' with everything 'turned off'? Presumably there will be some drain - eg ECUs/Alarm.

Edit: Searching on the above stuff, my friend YouTube recons a figure above 50 milli-amps is considered a drain - the test video showed 6 milli-amps on his car.
 
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