EGR removal - check list

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shotgun0589

New Member
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151
I've removed the EGR valve from my 2005 defender, it's the type with the cooler as part of the system, here's what I've done so far - have I missed anything ----- ?

1. Removed plastic engine covers to the engine and the one above the fan
2. Disconnected the vacuum hoses from the EGR and blanked of the holes
3. remove the 4x bolts holding the egr to the manifold, undo the jubilee clip
4. remove the 2x allen bolts holding the re-circ pipe to the exhaust manifold and blank off with plate
5. Fit the large tube with new gasket to the inlet manifold, refit jubilee clip
6. Disconnect bot electrical connectors from the EGR modulators on the right hand inner wing
7. Refit both covers

Is that everything?

I tried driving it, it seems a bit noisier at certain revs and does not seem to be an improvement, is there something I've missed or done wrong? The two ends to the heat exchanger are still both open at the moment as the kit only had one blanking plate, I can't see as though this would make a difference?
Some kits come with a blanking plug for the airbox, there's a breather pipe going from the airbox to the modulators - is it worth blocking that up too?

Maybe I was expecting too much but it's not really made any difference so far, but then again I've only done a few miles, will it improve when the ecu decides there is no EGR valve now? Would a tune help?
 
You have done it right. Did you have a look into the inlet manifold while you had the valve body off? I bet it was full of black gungy ****e. Take out the MAP sensor on the inlet manifold and give it a good clean. I soak them in oven cleaner or caustic soda solution for five minutes then rinse with parafin or the like. Make sure its dry before you put it back. You wont see a massive difference but rest assured your engine is now being fed nice cool clean air with a higher oxygen content so it will run more efficiently.
 
You have done it right. Did you have a look into the inlet manifold while you had the valve body off? I bet it was full of black gungy ****e. Take out the MAP sensor on the inlet manifold and give it a good clean. I soak them in oven cleaner or caustic soda solution for five minutes then rinse with parafin or the like. Make sure its dry before you put it back. You wont see a massive difference but rest assured your engine is now being fed nice cool clean air with a higher oxygen content so it will run more efficiently.
OK, thanks, is it located inside the end of the inlet manifold, next to the 4 bolts that were undone to remove the valve? Is it easy to take it out? Cheers
 
The MAP sensor is located about half way along the manifold. It will have an electrical connector and is held in by (I think I remember rightly) two 8 or 10mm bolts and is a tight push fit due to the O ring that seals it. The one you need is No.4 on the attached diagram. A new one is less than a tenner if you dont want to get dirty.
 

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The MAP sensor is located about half way along the manifold. It will have an electrical connector and is held in by (I think I remember rightly) two 8 or 10mm bolts and is a tight push fit due to the O ring that seals it. The one you need is No.4 on the attached diagram. A new one is less than a tenner if you dont want to get dirty.
Thanks Shifty, very much appreciated, I'll have a look and clean it all out as soon as I get time, many thanks for your help.
 
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