EAS issues.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
A

andyr

Member
Posts
28
Location
west midlands
Hello all.
I was towing a fully loaded 2 ton trailer when i had to brake sharpish. I quickly learned the trailers brakes didn't work and ended up being rear ended by the trailer, or at least that's what it felt like.
Although i couldn't find any physical damage, the EAS was screaming at me. Fortunately it was a soft fault, so no going to bump stops or max 35mph.
I plugged the nanocom in but it couldn't communicate with the EAS, along with the HEVAC, transmission or SRS. I replaced the diagnostic plug and hardwired that other troublesome plug behind the left hand kick plate.
The nanocom could now access everything except the EAS.
The thing is, i'm not getting a 'cannot communicate' message from the nanocom, it just freezes the nanocom and the only way out is to pull the plug. It doesn't matter what function you select on the EAS, once you've made a selection the nanocom will not function or respond to any key stroke, the only way out is to pull the plug.
The EAS still works, apart from the warning, the bleeps and the Christmas tree it works perfectly well, and has done for weeks, but i'd rather fix it.
Have i managed to fry the ECU?

Anybody got any idea's?
 
andyr said:
Hello all.
I was towing a fully loaded 2 ton trailer when i had to brake sharpish. I quickly learned the trailers brakes didn't work and ended up being rear ended by the trailer, or at least that's what it felt like.
Although i couldn't find any physical damage, the EAS was screaming at me. Fortunately it was a soft fault, so no going to bump stops or max 35mph.
I plugged the nanocom in but it couldn't communicate with the EAS, along with the HEVAC, transmission or SRS. I replaced the diagnostic plug and hardwired that other troublesome plug behind the left hand kick plate.
The nanocom could now access everything except the EAS.
The thing is, i'm not getting a 'cannot communicate' message from the nanocom, it just freezes the nanocom and the only way out is to pull the plug. It doesn't matter what function you select on the EAS, once you've made a selection the nanocom will not function or respond to any key stroke, the only way out is to pull the plug.
The EAS still works, apart from the warning, the bleeps and the Christmas tree it works perfectly well, and has done for weeks, but i'd rather fix it.
Have i managed to fry the ECU?

Anybody got any idea's?
Click to expand...

I had/have this exact problem. I replaced the ecu and it made no difference. Only thing I haven't done is replaced the diag port but from what I can see, it really isn't bad at all. My Nanocom freezes when trying to access EAS stuff too, works with everything else
 
domino said:
I had/have this exact problem. I replaced the ecu and it made no difference. Only thing I haven't done is replaced the diag port but from what I can see, it really isn't bad at all. My Nanocom freezes when trying to access EAS stuff too, works with everything else
Click to expand...
That's very interesting, thanks for posting. Might be worth an email to nanocom to see if they know what may cause such a response from the nanocom.
I agree it's not that bad, more annoying than anything.
 
andyr said:
That's very interesting, thanks for posting. Might be worth an email to nanocom to see if they know what may cause such a response from the nanocom.
I agree it's not that bad, more annoying than anything.
Click to expand...
Try asking on the BBS forum,for some reason I can't access EAS with my Nanocom I have to use Storey Wilson's set up.
 
pwood999 said:
Is the EAS timer relay working correctly ?
Click to expand...
I appears to be. I load the vehicle regularly, the EAS compensates for the weight exactly as it's designed to do. The only think no working is the manual control, which is permanently lit up.
If i pull the relay, i get the "35 max" message on the dash, which goes when i replace it.
 
The timer relay has multiple functions. Some people replace it with regular 4-pin relay to disable self-levelling while parked, which also stops the diagnostics working.
  • In normal driving mode (any height), the BECM enables the relay when ignition is on, so it simply provides power feed to the ECU.
  • With ignition off, EAS SID says: "Power is maintained in the system for approximately one hundred seconds after the ignition is turned off or thirty seconds after the last door or tailgate is closed. This relay “wakes up” every few hours to level the system."
  • For diagnostics, either Nanocom or EAS-Unlock uses pin-3 on the relay to reset the ECU and allow diagnostic communication. My understanding (not confirmed) is the initialisation sequence has to be send within a few seconds of this reset, hence why you get the beeps & 35mph message every time the diags connect !!

upload_2021-11-4_10-24-15.png
 
Datatek said:
Get the RSW EAS suite, it's better than Nanocom for the EAS IMO.
The initial fault was probably caused by one or more of the height sensors traveling beyond the normal range and picking up dirt.
Click to expand...
I'd used this before, years ago before i had the nanocom, worked a treat. I couldn't find it on the RSW site but went straight to it when i typed in your wording, cheers.
I'll order some bits and make me a cable.
 
pwood999 said:
The timer relay has multiple functions. Some people replace it with regular 4-pin relay to disable self-levelling while parked, which also stops the diagnostics working.
  • In normal driving mode (any height), the BECM enables the relay when ignition is on, so it simply provides power feed to the ECU.
  • With ignition off, EAS SID says: "Power is maintained in the system for approximately one hundred seconds after the ignition is turned off or thirty seconds after the last door or tailgate is closed. This relay “wakes up” every few hours to level the system."
  • For diagnostics, either Nanocom or EAS-Unlock uses pin-3 on the relay to reset the ECU and allow diagnostic communication. My understanding (not confirmed) is the initialisation sequence has to be send within a few seconds of this reset, hence why you get the beeps & 35mph message every time the diags connect !!

View attachment 251883
Click to expand...
Thanks for that, learn something new every day.
 
andyr said:
I'd used this before, years ago before i had the nanocom, worked a treat. I couldn't find it on the RSW site but went straight to it when i typed in your wording, cheers.
I'll order some bits and make me a cable.
Click to expand...
If you are stuck, I can supply the software on CD and the cable although post Brexit I'm not sure if there would be customs charges.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Take it the OBD plug has no signs of green and the white connectors behind the passenger kick panel are all good?
Click to expand...
The OBD plug was replaced, but only the larger of the two white plugs was cut out and hard wired. The smaller white plug looked ok, but i didn't realise they both needed to be done, i was under the impression it was always the larger plug that gave the grief.
I'll hard wire the other plug as a precaution.
 
Update.
The guidance from BBS was to update the Nanocom's software to the latest 1.36Beta and try again. It didn't work.
However.....
The RSW solution did work, sort of....
A combination of finding an RS232 cable and my impatience to wait for parts led me to "bodge some wires in" and give it a go.

The connection seamed very unstable, sometimes the idle was green, sometimes red, mostly flickering between the two. Each time i accessed the suspension heights they would return wildly different values, non of the functions on the functions tab would work, but somewhere in my random clicking the fault was gone, and my EAS is back to normal.
I don't honestly know what i've done, but the EAS works properly now. No more warning bleeps, no more Christmas tree.
20211105_124018.jpg 20211105_140903.jpg 20211105_141947.jpg

My thanks to all those that contributed.
 
andyr said:
Update.
The guidance from BBS was to update the Nanocom's software to the latest 1.36Beta and try again. It didn't work.
However.....
The RSW solution did work, sort of....
A combination of finding an RS232 cable and my impatience to wait for parts led me to "bodge some wires in" and give it a go.

The connection seamed very unstable, sometimes the idle was green, sometimes red, mostly flickering between the two. Each time i accessed the suspension heights they would return wildly different values, non of the functions on the functions tab would work, but somewhere in my random clicking the fault was gone, and my EAS is back to normal.
I don't honestly know what i've done, but the EAS works properly now. No more warning bleeps, no more Christmas tree.
View attachment 252032 View attachment 252033 View attachment 252034

My thanks to all those that contributed.
Click to expand...
I'd put that list of faults down to bad comms,my advice is don't touch anything until it goes wrong next time.:eek:;):D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Montyjohn
P38A Adding a valve to manually fill EAS tank and why did my pump fail again?
Replies
14
Views
845
Datatek
Datatek
Flossie
P38A Eas issues
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
Datatek
Datatek
feyniriel
P38 EAS problems
Replies
18
Views
1K
pwood999
pwood999
M
P38A Finally have time to be back on forums again
Replies
4
Views
173
brianp38dse
brianp38dse
K
Is my RR Classic in EAS shutdown?
Replies
12
Views
794
kevleaper
K
Back
Top