EAS compressor temperature

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domino

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,014
Location
Edinburgh
Hi guys,

How hot should these things be getting?

I'm making a list of things to check on this new purchase and, after the EAS being fixed on Tuesday, thought i'd have a look at the new compressor. It was/is roasting hot! I can't keep a hand on it it's so warm.. but the engine was last running over an hour ago!

Is this indicative of another fault?
 
...just reading other threads about this and it seems to be something a lot of folk have had problems with but still being this hot after so long and the whole system just being health checked.. something aint right, surely?
 
Is high temperature like that directly indicative of a fault or is it also 'normal' temperature?
 
Cutout temp is 120 c. Will get warm in normal use but should not get anywhere near cutout temp. Is it running to much should come on for few seconds now and again but NOT run constantly.
 
Well, I did have the EAS software on it earlier trying to clear a fault - that took quite a bit of tinkering and trial and error.

When you kill the software the car throws an error (I know it says it will) but it didn't then clear it. I did switch it on and off using the software so I would know what it sounds like when it's running and I don't think it's running constantly from what I can tell.

So many different noises in the car and from the engine bay - I have no idea what half of them are. Whirring noises, whines, all sorts! - not sure where to even begin to try and find out what they are. 20 new topics perhaps? lol
 
The compressor may well be hot when checked if the car has been stood for a while and dropped, in that situation it can run for a few minutes when the car is started to replenish the tank and get quite hot, after that, as said it should not run that often but is likely to remain quite warm
 
Thanks Keith. I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens.

When I stop, change in to park and apply the hand brake (engine still on) it does sink a little bit. I guess I just don't know enough about the system or how it should feel either. I mean, should it iron out bumps? Should it make driving over bumps and cobbled roads a lot smoother?
 
Thanks Keith. I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens.

When I stop, change in to park and apply the hand brake (engine still on) it does sink a little bit. I guess I just don't know enough about the system or how it should feel either. I mean, should it iron out bumps? Should it make driving over bumps and cobbled roads a lot smoother?
The front levels out after you release the brakes when you stop, sometimes does a little dance until it's happy:)
How smooth the ride is will depend on shocks and tyres. The big advantage of air is the self leveling and the ability to raise and lower the ride height.
The ride on mine is very supple and smooth, all the more so since I replaced the goodyear Wranglers with Nexen Rodians. I run OEM shocks.
I run with it locked at motorway height, I can see not good reason for it going up and down as the speed varies between motorway and normal heights, saves the compressor flogging itself to death.
 
Ride is best on 16's...18's are acceptable but need a good tyre pressure balance for a smooth and wonder-free ride.

Mine came on 19" L322 Rims, and whilst I like the style of them on the P38, the ride is a tad harsh for a P38, so may look to get some decent original P38 fitment rims and flog the 19's, or keep them and put winter tyres on and swap them on my L322 as and when required!
 
Thanks Saint/Keith :) that doing a dance thing is comforting as I have seen that happen when I'm stopped! How often does it adjust while driving? Like, does it keep the car level when going round corners and stuff or is it really just for levels from front to back?

As for wheels, it's on standard wheels with 'meh' tyres - Falken Ziex S/TZ 01 on the rear and "Fullrun" HS299 on the front.
 
Also, how long should it take to raise from access level? Does the car need to move off first before it pumps up?

It's in access just now (hit down with engine off) but when I turn engine on and press up for standard it just flashes that setting but doesn't seem to get there. If I move off it eventually stops flashing and sits at normal.
 
It should be fairly swift if the air tank is full....

If you have been going up and down a lot, the tank could be empty...try this:

Open the door, run the engine and leave door open for 10 minutes, then hop in, close the door and select the ride height, it should move instantly, as this 10 minute period has recharged the air tank....if not there could be a leak on the storage side of the system.

Also if you have no need to drop to access, leave it in standard when parked up...else the system has to keep working each time you get in as it always has to rise to standard, this puts undue wear into the system.

Height changes are only possible with doors and tail closed, engine running and foot off the brake.

Height changes can occur while stationary.
 
Okie doke, I shall do that tomorrow. Don't think the neighbours will appreciate V8 rumble at this time of night!
 
Also, how long should it take to raise from access level? Does the car need to move off first before it pumps up?

It's in access just now (hit down with engine off) but when I turn engine on and press up for standard it just flashes that setting but doesn't seem to get there. If I move off it eventually stops flashing and sits at normal.

Hi maybe a silly question but you are trying to adjust it in park without pressing the brake because im sure it wont work if youve got your foot on the brake or a door open stops it as well.

Cheers Glyn
 
Sounds like the compressor is tired or you have a storage leak. Look in the " How to" section.

If you had taken your RR to a 'specialist' for the EAS to be checked and sorted would you have expected them to have sorted it?
 
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