P38A EAS again.

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tomcat59alan

Well-Known Member
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wirral and triquivijate
Morning, Everyone just running this past you all.The red Bastid decided to show me it's impression of a dog cocking its leg ,the passenger side front and rear have raised themselves. I raised the suspension to high, removed the leveling relay,measured the heights from the wheel centres to arches art night. Just checked and all the measurements are the same so no leaks. I personally think it's time to overhaul the valve block, it's been many years since I last did it.Someone posted a schematic for the system but I'm buggered if I can find it now.Thought I'd post this first incase I'm missing something obvious.Cheers Stay safe. Just found the schematic by @paul p38a. My thinking is dessecant preventing the valves from seating properly so air dryer time as well.
 
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tomcat59alan said:
Morning, Everyone just running this past you all.The red Bastid decided to show me it's impression of a dog cocking its leg ,the passenger side front and rear have raised themselves. I raised the suspension to high, removed the leveling relay,measured the heights from the wheel centres to arches art night. Just checked and all the measurements are the same so no leaks. I personally think it's time to overhaul the valve block, it's been many years since I last did it.Someone posted a schematic for the system but I'm buggered if I can find it now.Thought I'd post this first incase I'm missing something obvious.Cheers Stay safe. Just found the schematic by @paul p38a. My thinking is dessecant preventing the valves from seating properly so air dryer time as well.
Click to expand...
Your kick panel connectors already cut and shut al'?
 
tomcat59alan said:
That's the one thanks Mark,I can't see any common link between passenger side front and back so I'm guessing a rebuild, luckily I have a set of O rings in store's.;)
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Mines going to get a rebuild as it drops, but take the relay out and it stays there, it is quite a few years since it was rebuild so going to do the pump and block, i am going to end up have a completely rebuilt motor if things dont get back to normal soon:rolleyes:
 
Since the weather warmed up a bit, mine is rising at the rear again. If the passenger side valves are allowing air through, best to put these two on the L & R rear. That way if the rear rises when it's off & parked, it levels quickly when you start up in the morning.
 
tomcat59alan said:
Morning, Everyone just running this past you all.The red Bastid decided to show me it's impression of a dog cocking its leg ,the passenger side front and rear have raised themselves. I raised the suspension to high, removed the leveling relay,measured the heights from the wheel centres to arches art night. Just checked and all the measurements are the same so no leaks. I personally think it's time to overhaul the valve block, it's been many years since I last did it.Someone posted a schematic for the system but I'm buggered if I can find it now.Thought I'd post this first incase I'm missing something obvious.Cheers Stay safe. Just found the schematic by @paul p38a. My thinking is dessecant preventing the valves from seating properly so air dryer time as well.
Click to expand...

My suspicion is the rubber cones on the solenoid pistons rather than the o-rings but it cannot hurt.
 
Definitely the plunger faces if random corners rise. The problem is rubber hardening over years & the slightly off centre base. Look at the dent on the plunger faces. If it rotates that’s when the seal is << 100% hence air passes. If block gallery is higher than the air bag then that corner rises.

I tested this on bench with gallery both higher & lower than the corners & 4 gauges. It’s worse when the rubber is cold but the air flows (very slowly) when they differ.

So it’s better if the car rises than drops because morning adjust is faster !!

To reduce (but not fix) the problem you can sand the plunger face. Put it in a drill & spin. Then gently sand the spinning face to reduce the dent. WARNING if you press too hard the rubber will break !!

I contacted Dunlop Air people and new replacement valves can be ordered at about £11 each (prob plus vat) but minimum order is 50.
 
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pwood999 said:
Definitely the plunger faces if random corners rise. The problem is rubber hardening over years & the slightly off centre base. Look at the dent on the plunger faces. If it rotates that’s when the seal is << 100% hence air passes. If block gallery is higher than the air bag then that corner rises.

I tested this on bench with gallery both higher & lower than the corners & 4 gauges. It’s worse when the rubber is cold but the air flows (very slowly) when they differ.

So it’s better if the car rises than drops because morning adjust is faster !!

To reduce (but not fix) the problem you can sand the plunger face. Put it in a drill & spin. Then gently sand the spinning face to reduce the dent. WARNING if you press too hard the rubber will break !!

I contacted Dunlop Air people and new replacement valves can be ordered at about £11 each (prob plus vat) but minimum order is 50.
Click to expand...
Drill the old rubber out and refill with potting compound mix - last for many years.
 
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