Discs and pads change

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
R

roadster

New Member
Posts
24
Hi
I need to change discs and pads on my 2006 Freelander TD4 Auto. Is it easy enough to do myself, is there anyhting I need to look out for, or is it best to let the garage do it? Anywhere recommended to get the discs and pads from?

Many thanks in advance
Martin
 
roadster said:
Hi
I need to change discs and pads on my 2006 Freelander TD4 Auto. Is it easy enough to do myself, is there anyhting I need to look out for, or is it best to let the garage do it? Anywhere recommended to get the discs and pads from?

Many thanks in advance
Martin
Click to expand...

Hi,

It's an absolute piece of cake - no problems. Take out 1 bolt and the calipers swing up out of the way - discs are straight forward bolt on. Simple tools only - I used a cheapy 4" G-cramp from B&Q to push back the pistons.

I suggest you follow the step by step instructions in the Haynes Manual.

You might have the usual rusty bolt to deal with but I use Wurth Rost Off Ice (get it on eBay) which freezes them and breaks the rust, much better than WD40 type stuff on it's own.

Best pads and discs to get are by EBC - I use their 'greenstuff' pads - more bite and last 3 times longer than the standard LandRover ones. Their discs don't seem to rust like the originals either.

Check their website or Phone them and ask for discount - usually works - fast delivery - no probs - I wouldn't buy any other brand.

Hope that helps.

DIY - save a packet.

Singvogel. :cool:
 
If the OP’s not changed brake parts/pads/disks before, then may I suggest he gets someone who’s done it before correctly to help him. Would be safer that way.
 
I have always taken the caliper of and rested it on a block to save trying to strech the brake hose and also taken the fluid resvior cap off then you need to get the 2 screws out with a cross headed srcrew driver now here is the tricky point if they will not come out just drill the heads of them and as soon as you have the disc off then get a pair of pliers and unscrew them once the disc is off they have not tention on them and they should come out no problems hope this helps
 
The pads I fitted were handed even though they look similar, two pads have a bigger taper than the other two (not sure which goes to the front) this is to stop brake squeal.
 
Hippo said:
If the OP’s not changed brake parts/pads/disks before, then may I suggest he gets someone who’s done it before correctly to help him. Would be safer that way.
Click to expand...

I would agree with that Hippo - I too would caution against over-estimating capabilities, or over-encourage the inexperienced amongst us. These are brakes right enough and safety should come first.

With the help of a competent friend and a Haynes Manual you should have no trouble. Haynes is essential for folks who are into this DIY mechanics for perhaps the first time.

Yes -its a good idea to support the calliper from underneath or even use some strong string to hold the weight of it.

Singvogel. :)
 
Have a look at this video. I don't change pads this way myself but would like people's opinions.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjyW21qEgec&feature=youtube_gdata_player]HOW TO FIT BRAKE PADS ON A TD4 FREE LANDER LAND ROVER - YouTube[/ame]
 
Never skimp on safety critical parts, ditto what Singvogel said re EBC parts.

Only try it yourself if you feel confident, NEVER use the jack on its own. (emergency wheel change only). You can get velcro tape, great for when you need to hang stuff out of the way, or as a temp fix on things hanging off! better than string and many times reuseable.
 
Looey said:
Never skimp on safety critical parts, ditto what Singvogel said re EBC parts.

Only try it yourself if you feel confident, NEVER use the jack on its own. (emergency wheel change only). You can get velcro tape, great for when you need to hang stuff out of the way, or as a temp fix on things hanging off! better than string and many times reuseable.
Click to expand...

That's great idea about the velcro, Looey. :)

I've got my old army velcro belt which I must remember to use next time around.

Now why didn't I think of that, then? Don't answer!

S.:cool:
 
Velcro tape, cable ties, a length of wire, a bit of insulating tape and some tin foil, essential fit in the pocket get you home kit. 30 plus years of British and Harley Davidson motorcycle and Land Rover ownership. :)
 
As others have stated, get a haynes manual, read it then have a go. Easy job really, do take note of the pads though, they are handed but will fit either way and if you do pop them in the wrong way round they will squeal like hell!!

Zoolander - You are supposed to undo the nipple to push the caliper back, makes it loads easier and stops the risk of damaging any of the seals in the master cylinder, never bother myself tho :p
 
You may find that the disc is well stuck to the hub if it hasn't been off before, mine were, luckily I had a 3 leg puller to get them off, otherwise I would have struggled. I had tried tempting them off with a hammer but if I'd have hit then any harder I could well have damaged them. Of course that's not a problem if your fitting new ones, but it would have been a pain without the extractors.
 
Had a Mondeo with seized discs on the hub - seems like this is a common problem with them. Ran a mini grinder round them which worked fairly well. both off no problems. The heat generated from the grinder was enough to loosen.
 
zoolander said:
Had a Mondeo with seized discs on the hub - seems like this is a common problem with them. Ran a mini grinder round them which worked fairly well. both off no problems. The heat generated from the grinder was enough to loosen.
Click to expand...


Me too had to get em cut off as even heating with a gas torch wouldn't loosen em..
 
When I bought genuine pads from me local stealer they wern't as others have said above. They only had 1 slope at one end, and the slope was the same amount for all 4 pads. 2 left facing un 2 right facing sloped pads. So the slopes were all at the top, when fitted. :confused:
 
Blooming marvelous, all. Thank you very much for all the good advice, including the safety advice. I have just changed pads on my Mercedes 190E, with the help of a good friend who is far more knowledgeable on these things than me. Will let you know how I got on. Hopefully getting to do it this week or next weekend. Thanks again.
 
'Best pads and discs to get are by EBC - I use their 'greenstuff' pads - more bite and last 3 times longer than the standard LandRover ones. Their discs don't seem to rust like the originals either.'

Just ordered my EBC grooved discs and green stuff pads. They'll be going on in Jan with a new set of tyres and will sort the tracking at the same time. Will hopefully notice a difference with all that as not cheap!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

damian46
Brake pads not fitting
Replies
13
Views
1K
damian46
damian46
S
Chassis change out
Replies
4
Views
273
Stu@69
S
Ian M in France
Changing rear axle bushes
Replies
6
Views
515
Ian M in France
Ian M in France
L
Parts recomendation for L320 brakes
Replies
0
Views
696
LemonRRS
L
S
Freelander seized brakes and transmission fluid
Replies
10
Views
1K
Shabe
S
Back
Top