Discovery 4 - Limp Mode Cold Start Manifold absolute pressure issues

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

mantrid

Active Member
Posts
85
Hi folks,

I got a discovery 4 2010, its been great but recently its been going into limp mode on cold starts, if I put it under stress within the first 10 mins or so of driving, I get a big puff of smoke out of the exhaust at the back and the car loses oil slowly over time so I plugged in my code reader and got the following codes (see images), first is P006A-00 "Manifold absolute pressure - mass or volume air flow correlation", the second is P1247-00 "Intermittent Turbocharger boost pressure low".

There are no oil leaks that I can see, no oil under the car so I thought it might be a manifold leak, I bought a smoke machine, plugged it into the hose (see pics), I have no idea if this was the correct hose to plug in into but it created a lot of back pressure I had to push the thing in to keep it in and could not see any smoke leaking anywhere with a torch, not in the engine bay, not under the car, nowhere.

I cleaned both the MAF and MAP sensors well, and during I noticed oil in one of the tubes leading to the turbo sensors, see pictures.

I am not a mechanic, only just got into doing stuff with the car so any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for the help guys and all the best, Mantrid.

smokemachine.png


OILINTUBE.png


turbo.png

POO6A-00.png
 
Testing at that position means you're only testing a third of the air intake & charge air system at best, better to test at the two ducts coming from the air filter enclosure (the one where you identified oil) Of course, you'll have to blank off one of the ducts. As well as smoke, check the charge air hoses for any localised swelling whilst under pressure, this can indicate delamination of the hose due to an internal tear - I've know this lead to an air 'bubble' within the hose structure which causes a restriction.
 
Hi, that's what the LR workshop manual states for those codes so you'll have to insist on that

View attachment 312058
thanks for this @sierrafery, really helpful, sorry for the late reply, this was my old car now getting the same error on a new D4 TDV6 (2010), I am also getting the P1247-00 error so the resolution process in the table above appears to be:

"If this DTC is logged with P1247-00, suspect intake are system, high pressure boost leak bi-turbo mode bank 2"

My question is, what the hell does this mean and what do I have to do to diagnose it and then repair it (got a smoke machine, icarsoft LR V 3.0, tools), I should be able to fix it hopefully!

Thanks @sierrafery, much appreciated.

M.
 
Last edited:
Unfortunately i can't help you more with this as all i know to do on D4's is with a diagnostic tool, some programmings or pure electrical faults. When it comes to boost issues on these it's beyond my skills
 
Yeah could be, I was going to put a smoke machine on it shortly, will update laters, cheers dude.
 
A smoke test should be the next test, be aware that you will need to test at a pressure of up to 0.5 Bar for any leaks to show themselves.
 
okay tried the smoke test, plugged it into the first pipe coming off the air intake box, couldn't see any leaks, took it into a garage a few weeks back and they said nothing on smoke test also, so while there I thought I'll spray a tin of lucas egr valve cleaner into the same air intakes, I did both pipes, half a can each, then waited an hour or so and took it out for a drive, the engine is now ticking loudly under acceleration so another problem! :(

maybe take a car our for a long drive and let it reset any values due to changes in airflow, carbon flushing, etc?
 
A "tick" is also a sign of manifold failure.

I know but I replaced the throttle body and took it for a days drive to my dads and no ticking, I get back, I spray this egr stuff and THEN the ticking starts, I suppose the intermittent but not extreme rattling of the engine when spraying in the stuff could have cracked the manifolds so will check with a smoke test tomorrow to see if its still sealed, thanks, and on that note has anyone ever used these aluminium manifods before, are they any good?
 
Hi. P006A-00 is a sign for manifold crash. Do a visual check initiall at the manifolds for oil and do a smoke test. If there is not crash at one of the manifolds, drive you car and check the RPM when you can't accelerate more and in what rpm's the problem starts.
Probably will be around 2200 rpm. That means the problem is at the 1st turbo and because of that you have the p1247. Did you do 2nd turbo meintenance? As a Bi Turbo engine there are enough posibilities to loose pressure from the pipes or the Turbine Shut off valve which close the gas to 2nd turbo up to 2800rpm. If there is gas link, the gases are not enough to rotate the 1st turbo and you have that problem. Inform me about the results and we will go one step ahead later.
 
Hi. P006A-00 is a sign for manifold crash. Do a visual check initiall at the manifolds for oil and do a smoke test. If there is not crash at one of the manifolds, drive you car and check the RPM when you can't accelerate more and in what rpm's the problem starts.
Probably will be around 2200 rpm. That means the problem is at the 1st turbo and because of that you have the p1247. Did you do 2nd turbo meintenance? As a Bi Turbo engine there are enough posibilities to loose pressure from the pipes or the Turbine Shut off valve which close the gas to 2nd turbo up to 2800rpm. If there is gas link, the gases are not enough to rotate the 1st turbo and you have that problem. Inform me about the results and we will go one step ahead later.

Hello mate, thanks for replying, well I was just looking into this yesterday, I get the problem when the second turbo kicks in at about 2500rpm - I had a problem with the air box not sealing right and the elbow connector that the air pipe went into was buckled and pushed into the car bodywork, when I put the new airbox in I pulled the rubber gasket elbow connector back into the right position car felt better but did not resolve the issue on cold starts, luckily the air box I ordered still had two MAF sensors connected so I was planning on taking those two and swapping out the maf sensor that links to the secondary turbo, I created this diagram to help, hopefully it's right, I need to replace MAF A, the one at the back when looking at the engine bay from the front?

Hope this makes sense and thanks for your help.

Mantrid.

1741795003342.png
 
Hello mate, thanks for replying, well I was just looking into this yesterday, I get the problem when the second turbo kicks in at about 2500rpm - I had a problem with the air box not sealing right and the elbow connector that the air pipe went into was buckled and pushed into the car bodywork, when I put the new airbox in I pulled the rubber gasket elbow connector back into the right position car felt better but did not resolve the issue on cold starts, luckily the air box I ordered still had two MAF sensors connected so I was planning on taking those two and swapping out the maf sensor that links to the secondary turbo, I created this diagram to help, hopefully it's right, I need to replace MAF A, the one at the back when looking at the engine bay from the front?

Hope this makes sense and thanks for your help.

Mantrid.

View attachment 336975
Are there fault codes? Is it possible to accelerate in more than 2500rpm? Maybe there is not only one problem.
 
Back
Top