Discovery 2 td5 automatic issues

bodgerrfa · Sep 20, 2013

I have a disco 2 with an auto box issue. Got it at a steel of £2k for an es td5 facelift with a known fault. The two gear lights are on and it is in limp home mode. Plugged in the diagnostics and it says solenoid 1 and solenoid 2 faults. Is this a new box job, don't mind so much if it is. As its only got 70k on it and the rest of the motor is perfect.

If its a new box, does a v8 box fit a td5?

X,y,z switch has tested ok with t4 diagnostics.

Help appreciated.

sierrafery · Sep 20, 2013

V8 box will not fit Td5, you can buy the solenoids as spares, THT000020 | SOLENOID ASSY SHIFT CONTROL DIS2-NRR | Land Rover | Discovery 2 - 1999 to 2004 | Britcar (UK) Ltd or replace the whole valve block, expensive stuff THD000010 | BLOCK - GEAR SHIFT CONTROL | Land Rover | Discovery 2 - 1999 to 2004 | Britcar (UK) Ltd the solenoids can be replaced in situ no need to remove the gearbox, see attachment

bodgerrfa · Sep 21, 2013

Many thanks for the help, on another note, does anyone know what size of airline / pneumatic piping is used on the disco 2. Also got a leak as I found today. Thanks for the assistance.

bodgerrfa · Sep 22, 2013

Does anyone know if the automatic valve block internals of the v8 box will fit into a td5. Low mileage gearbox expensive, v8 cheaper, was just going to swap the valve pack over.

sierrafery · Sep 22, 2013

according to the dimensions associated to the part numbers(which are different aswell) there are some differences between V8 and Td5, even between early Td5 and Euro3 Td5's... but that's all i can tell

bodgerrfa · Sep 22, 2013

Ok so here are the exact descriptions from T4:

Solenoid valve 1 monitoring (sc to gound or o/c)

As above for no 2.

Next page

Short to ground or open circuit.
Fault is present
Continuous fault

Freeze frame
Engine speed = 0 rpm
Voltage at solenoid 1=0.0v
Battery voltage = 12.041v.

All is the same for solenoid 2

Voltage at solenoid 2 = 0.215v

Could this be a module fault?

Oh and it clunks into reverse.

thebiglad · Sep 23, 2013

I don't mean to be funny, but have you checked to ensure that there is the correct amount of oil in the autobox?

bodgerrfa · Sep 23, 2013

Hi,
Yea, lol, can be blonde at times but not that blonde. Low oil wouldn't give a solenoid fault as far as I'm aware? I may be wrong?

thebiglad · Sep 23, 2013

bodgerrfa said:
Hi,
Yea, lol, can be blonde at times but not that blonde. Low oil wouldn't give a solenoid fault as far as I'm aware? I may be wrong?

Well bearing in mind that they solenoids are in the hydraulic valve block, if it was low on oil then it might disturb the solenoids???

Anyway, it was just to ensure you didn't go to far down an unnecessary wrong track.

I take it you know the correct procedure for checking the oil level? Engine running, cycle through all gear positions, leave engine running then check level.

Dave

PS A low battery can also give weird electrical faults.

Thor1950 · Sep 23, 2013

First thing you need to do is service the transmission , Change the fluid and filter and clean the pan. They need to have that done around 50,000 miles or so. And did you check fluid level, low fluid will put it in limp mod is a safety feature. You are lucky at this point and do not drive until you have done what I said as you will fook it up if you continue to drive it

bodgerrfa · Sep 23, 2013

Gents, all input is massively appreciated. She is parked up firmly till I can figure this out. I will order a service kit, to include oils and filter. Yea she is firmly locked in limp mode, so no going through the gear range. As soon as I clear the faults, the flash greens go off for around 20 seconds and then come back. Does anyone else think it may be worth trying another module?

Thor1950 · Sep 23, 2013

bodgerrfa said:
Gents, all input is massively appreciated. She is parked up firmly till I can figure this out. I will order a service kit, to include oils and filter. Yea she is firmly locked in limp mode, so no going through the gear range. As soon as I clear the faults, the flash greens go off for around 20 seconds and then come back. Does anyone else think it may be worth trying another module?

Not until after you serviced it and cleared fault code, (don't asked my how to) don't know if it self clears or not

bodgerrfa · Sep 23, 2013

Hi guys will do, I'll order the above. Just another thought, as one solenoid is showing voltage and the other isn't, does anyone think it may be worth a module change? Trying to fix in the most economical way. Second hand working module £20, service kit and oil £44 recon box and torque converter £750.

Cheers all.

thebiglad · Sep 23, 2013

I would charge your battery overnight before you do anything else.

A poor electrical supply plays havoc with the ECUs.

sierrafery · Sep 23, 2013

the oil and filter change will not hurt and it's good for you to start knowing it was done, that's a fact...but as long as T4 shows those short/open circuits and those missing voltages there's something electrical too... and it coould be the ECU or the loom aswell not necessarily that friggin' valve block... a knowledgeable electrician would know how to check the loom ... imo thtat's something to rule out too ... when you say "module" you mean transmission ECU?

the most economical would be to trace the real fault and fix that IMO

, replacing elements randomly based on luck doesn look economical to me

bodgerrfa · Sep 23, 2013

Correct sir, transmission ecu. Don't suppose anyone has a drawing for this part of the loom to the transmission ecu. I would be willing to check this first, then the service, then the transmission ecu, lastly gbox replacement.

sierrafery · Sep 23, 2013

did you forget about the solenoids replacement if maybe these are at fault?...or that's not an option for you? ... i'll attach you the diagrams but you can also download a free RAVE for yourself then you'll have all you need, including diagrams, description/operation, repair procedures, etc

check continuity with ohmeter between solenoids plug and ECU plug on the wires and pins as shown in the diagrams, e.g (first diagram) from C0243-E to C0193-42....and so on...that's why i attached the plugs /pin disposals too...the second diagram might not be needed but i put it to keep the whole scheme complete)...if you dont see what i mean speak with an electrician, he'll understand...maybe you are lucky and it's just a bad contact in one of the plugs or a chaffed/interrupted wiring issue

bodgerrfa · Sep 23, 2013

Guys outstanding help. Shall get ino it and revert. Thank you all so so much.

bodgerrfa · Oct 16, 2013

Ok, current situation:

Continuity test of all wires between the transmission ecu module and the plug on the box, all wires test ok, no o/c. Also tested against wires to ground, no connections so assume all is ok here. 12v being supplied to the transmission ecu. Oil level in gbox ok. I have not changed the filter yet, just drained and topped up. Planning to do it again shortly so will change filter at this point, let the detergents in the oil do a flush through. Any ideas now gents. Plugs checked between C0243 and c0193 and supply from c0575.

sierrafery · Oct 16, 2013

as long as the wiring is OK and you get the solenoid fault IMO the problem is within the valve block

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