Martin091
New Member
- Posts
- 6
- Location
- Nottinghamshire
Afternoon guys
I've recently been having some non start issues with the Discovery which was found to be damaged crank sensor wiring (high speed crank, noisy crank etc). I cut and soldered new sheathed CPS wiring straight from the red plug to the plug for the sensor and all was fine again.
Lately I'm having issues getting it to start immediately on the key. Back when everything was good and well. I'd jump in, in the morning and turn the ignition on and wait for the glow plugs to do their thing before cranking and it would fire up perfectly. Now I have to wait around 20 seconds or so whilst the pump sounds like it's gargling custard and even then it may start for 10 seconds and die. At this point I have to either run a full purge or use easy start, neither of which I want to be doing.
So far I've changed the injector seals and washers for what it's worth. I've got a new fuel pump in, albeit a bearmach one but much better than the emergency amazon prime one I previously had. I've fitted a new battery from Tayna. I believe it's a C31-1000. I have a Gore filter head which is in good condition, and with new copper washers. Air bleed valve and reed valve are clean.
The only thing I haven't done is change the fuel lines or touch the FPR.
Something is draining fuel from the lines pretty quick. I can park at a shop, go grab a drink and the pump will be gargling air out again.
I'm wondering if anyone might have any ideas? The fuel line connectors at the filter housing aren't particularly amazing, so it might be the next option.
Here's to hoping it isn't a cracked cylinder head or injector failure!
Which way is the best way for the valves to be? Information is conflicting. Currently I have the reed (duck bill) valve on the inner rear and the air bleed on the outer rear. Before I changed it, it was reed valve inner front and air bleed outer rear.
TL;DR
Need to push air out before every start. Even with 5 minute gap.
New battery. New injector seals and washers. Gore filter head. New pump. Not touched FPR. Dodgy pipe connectors at filter housing
Where are you placing the valves in the filter housing?
Thanks in advance!
I've recently been having some non start issues with the Discovery which was found to be damaged crank sensor wiring (high speed crank, noisy crank etc). I cut and soldered new sheathed CPS wiring straight from the red plug to the plug for the sensor and all was fine again.
Lately I'm having issues getting it to start immediately on the key. Back when everything was good and well. I'd jump in, in the morning and turn the ignition on and wait for the glow plugs to do their thing before cranking and it would fire up perfectly. Now I have to wait around 20 seconds or so whilst the pump sounds like it's gargling custard and even then it may start for 10 seconds and die. At this point I have to either run a full purge or use easy start, neither of which I want to be doing.
So far I've changed the injector seals and washers for what it's worth. I've got a new fuel pump in, albeit a bearmach one but much better than the emergency amazon prime one I previously had. I've fitted a new battery from Tayna. I believe it's a C31-1000. I have a Gore filter head which is in good condition, and with new copper washers. Air bleed valve and reed valve are clean.
The only thing I haven't done is change the fuel lines or touch the FPR.
Something is draining fuel from the lines pretty quick. I can park at a shop, go grab a drink and the pump will be gargling air out again.
I'm wondering if anyone might have any ideas? The fuel line connectors at the filter housing aren't particularly amazing, so it might be the next option.
Here's to hoping it isn't a cracked cylinder head or injector failure!
Which way is the best way for the valves to be? Information is conflicting. Currently I have the reed (duck bill) valve on the inner rear and the air bleed on the outer rear. Before I changed it, it was reed valve inner front and air bleed outer rear.
TL;DR
Need to push air out before every start. Even with 5 minute gap.
New battery. New injector seals and washers. Gore filter head. New pump. Not touched FPR. Dodgy pipe connectors at filter housing
Where are you placing the valves in the filter housing?
Thanks in advance!
