Discovery 1 - will take up drive but won't move?

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Swarly

Swarly

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6
Can anyone help?
I have a Discovery 1 V8 Manual, the vehicle has been parked in the garage for about 6 months, when put I put the vehicle away it drove fine, all gears ok, handbrake fine although wouldn't ratchet up.
Today I have lubed the ratchet and handbrake lever mechanism and this now works fine. When I tried to back out of the garage, I got reverse fine and the take up and bite on the clutch was normal, but it won't move. The feeling was much like a normal vehicle that has been stood for a while and the handbrake seizes. I released the handbrake and manualy moved the handbrake drum from underneath, then applied the handbrake and tried again, the handbrake all seems fine.
Is it possible that all four brakes have seized on? I'm off to buy a trolley jack tomorrow to find out, in the mean time if I have overlooked something glaringly please let me know. :confused:
 
Swarly said:
Can anyone help?
I have a Discovery 1 V8 Manual, the vehicle has been parked in the garage for about 6 months,.....................................
Is it possible that all four brakes have seized on? I'm off to buy a trolley jack tomorrow to find out, in the mean time if I have overlooked something glaringly please let me know. :confused:
Click to expand...

It does sound like your brakes are seized on.
 
Thanks, I was thinking things over and I don't think it can be much else, hopefully not too big of a job
 
Just come back in, thought a little brute force and ignorance would do the trick, quite right Mark L, low range and a bit quick off the clutch did the job. The brakes are still operational but certainly not good enough for the road. Some further investigation & time required. Thanks All.
 
A short drive ought to fix it .. If I power wash mine then next day the disks are all rusty, but it's surface rust, a couple of dabs on the brakes for the first few hundred yards or so clears it all off.

I'd say drive it, if it doesn't improve immensely then check it again .. you've little to lose .. ;)
 
So, now the brakes have free'd off I thought I'd better take a look at them. Fronts first, I took the wheels off no problem, started to remove the pads and as i removed them the friction lining separated from the back plate! Ok so I checked the callipers and only one of the pistons was working... For a very brief moment I thought about buying a seal kit, however it occurred me that this would be a week of messing around and then I'd end up buying a new set. Anyway new callipers bought and fitted great! Better check the rears.....HELP! 3 of the rear wheel nuts are completely siezed so much so that I've broken my strong arm. I don't have a way to apply heat, I have doused the nuts front and back with penetrating oil, is there something I am missing that could help. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1376226869.679465.jpg
 

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Give the nuts a few very hard cracks on the head with a lump hammer then try with another power bar. Normally the shock helps to release them.
 
Can't believe how tight these nuts are, the steel and alloy must have truly melded together. I talked myself out of buying a 3/4 inch socket and bar on the way home and instead came up with the crazy idea of using a ring spanner and jack, the 1st one I tried cracked off beautifully, the next one was the locking wheel nut where buoyed with my success I didn't consider the reduced contact surface area and proceeded to break both the key and the wheel nut! The 3rd and last one refused to budge even with the full weight of rear corner on it, so in an attempt not to be beaten by it I have jacked the back up, put an axle stand under the spanner and left it under tension overnight. Thanks for all your suggestions yesterday I think my limited success was due in part to each nut receiving a good whacking with a lump hammer. Assuming that I take a look in the morning and find that my overnight treatment has worked, I could really do with some advice for the best way to remove a broken locking wheel nut.
 
I have never had this issue and it sounds awful BUT i have had problems getting the calliper bolts off and the nipples undone ooerr.

I have an impact driver for these trying times, 1/2" drive so can take sockets or screwdriver bits AND I don't have to whack it square on so I can swing like a banshee at the buggers.

On another note, once off a little copper grease...........
 
Exactly like my Disco was when I bought it. Asked a garage to crack the nuts for me, but they only seemed to do the front. I have an electric impact gun but it only just shifted the rears. I thought one was going to refuse even that treatment.
 
Removing broken locker:

You can either hammer a socket over it and hope it undos that way or there is other dockets which have a reverse thread in them which you use an impact gun as it tries to undo it tightens more and more then undos the bolt.
 
Get a length of metal pipe to fit over socket wrench, about 4 ft or so, tighten slightly then undo. It worked for me on my series3 wheels, when I rebuilt it, that didn't seem to have been taken off since it was made!
 
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