Discovery 1 1997 central locking

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ard-tullaich

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39
Had the usual electric faults with my disco interior lights always on and no rear wiper. Replaced the mfu with a tested one still no joy .
Disconnect the 2 connectors on the alarm central locking ecu amr 6429 under the glove box hey presto all electrics working as they should. Now i cant start the disco and no central locking. Bridged pin 10 and 11 on the the front green connector of the central locking ecu amr 6429 . Now engine starts but still no central locking. So Ive decide to buy a after market remote central locking kit without the door actuators. and use my existing ones in the doors. What i need to know if any one can help which wires from the original plugs that go into the amr 6429 do i need to use for the central locking. or has anyone got a wiring diagram for the amr 6429?
 
Your existing master actuator isn't compatible with an aftermarket locking kit, you will need one compatible with the kit your installing.
The slave actuators in the other four doors will be ok to reuse, just pickup the pink and orange pair of wires at the the existing master and connect those, the slaves are parallel wired so nothing else to do, if you find the slaves are locking while the master is unlocking etc just reverse the pair.
The wire colours may now be incorrect but u have the idea of what's involved and just use your meter to I'd the existing between the security ecu and master actuator.
 
At C274 you have to put +12 and ground across pins 2 - 3 (orange - pink wires) this circuit actuates the motors for lock one way and for unlock with reverted polarity, so +12V /pin 2 - ground/pin 3 ...see what it does then +12V/pin 3 - ground/pin 2 for the reverted action if you see what i mean, here's the relevant scheme

D1 central locking.jpg
 
Last edited:
sierrafery said:
At C274 you have to put +12 and ground across pins 2 - 3 (orange - pink wires) this circuit actuates the motors for lock one way and for unlock with reverted polarity, so +12V /pin 2 - ground/pin 3 ...see what it does then +12V/pin 3 - ground/pin 2 for the reverted action if you see what i mean
Click to expand...
right thanks nip out and try that, well it locked but wouldn't unlock when reversing the polarity.Had to re connect the amr 6429 to get the central locking to open the doors.
 
Then or the diagram is wrong or you missed something there, it's strange anyway albeit as long as you are trying to bypass factory fitted things and bodge them with direct feeds everything is possible IMO
 
well i discovered I have got a short some where because when i disconnect the earth from the battery and put a meter across the earth lead and earth terminal on the battery I'm getting a good 13.7v. So my next step is to pull every fuse till i get rid of the short and see what fuse that circuits on and go from there.
 
right so i found the circuit that was shorting out by unplugging f6 on the top satelite fuses . which happens to be the aux/trailer lights. so back to the original problem of no rear wiper and interior lights on all the time . would suspect it thinks there is a door open. This may also explain when trying to lock the disco with the key in the drivers door the locks pop back open. But its weird how they don't pop open when you lock with the key fob remote
 
I'm affraid i dont understand what you mean by that "shorting out" thing as long as that fuse was not blown , as about this:
ard-tullaich said:
when i disconnect the earth from the battery and put a meter across the earth lead and earth terminal on the battery I'm getting a good 13.7v.
Click to expand...
that's quite normal as long as that's the battery voltage

also when you gave those 12V and ground to pins 2 - 3 of C274 was the connector unplugged
 
It's nothing weird, it just indicates that electrically the door actuator is working correctly, but manually due to the locking rods are not moving fully to operate the actuator or the actuator requires a very slight adjustment on its 4 screw mounting plate.

With the interior lighting, check the 5 door switches, a wire may have become detached and is touching metal or a switch is broken giving u a permanent light which should extinguish, should if a look is left open ,in something like 8 minutes or so.
 
sierrafery said:
I'm affraid i dont understand what you mean by that "shorting out" thing as long as that fuse was not blown , as about this:
that's quite normal as long as that's the battery voltage

also when you gave those 12V and ground to pins 2 - 3 of C274 was the connector unplugged
Click to expand...
yes the connector was unplugged
 
ard-tullaich said:
unplugging f6 on the top satelite fuses . which happens to be the aux/trailer lights. so back to the original problem of no rear wiper and interior lights on all the time .
Click to expand...
Do you mean that the interior lights are on with F6 removed? , F6 beside the trailer socket is for instrument pack, clock, radio and interior lights too
 
no the interior lights go out when i pull the fuse. also noticed indicators dont flash when locking the car with the remote fob but flash when locking
 
unplug C274 and measure resistance across ground and pins 2 then 3 it should be open circuit to both.... , do you get resistance in one of them? ... though you should decide what is the problem which you want to fix at this point, to retrofit a central door lock unit or to fix the interior lights and wiper
 
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