DISCO RACE - TDV6 v's 300 Series V8

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seriesnut

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Might need some Help!

My smarmy mate has a TDV6 which he tells me will leave my old(95) V8XS for dead.

So we talked the talk until we had agreed to sort it out at Crail next year.

Rules are no mods to either vehicle, but I don't want the smug git to win, so am looking for undetectable means for modifying the V8 so he doesn't win.
I can guarantee he'll do the same and if he's reading this then he's already bought a tuning chip.

I already have the stats for the 2 vehicles and he has approximately 8BHP more than me but, but a slower 0-60 time of 11.0 as opposed to the V8 at 10.5!

Any suggestions welcome.
 
My Td5 would beat my D1 V8 to 60 even though the figures suggest otherwise. D3 should have no trouble am afraid.

Gaining simple power out of the V8 isn't easy either, swapping the cam from from a Sd1 Vitesse would give a small gain not as much as a good high lift cam but even though its not really something you can see its quite an expensive thing to have done.

My best advice is to ensure its running healthy, a grippy set of road tyres would help as will the right tyre pressures.
 
loudandproud205 said:
My Td5 would beat my D1 V8 to 60 even though the figures suggest otherwise. D3 should have no trouble am afraid.

Gaining simple power out of the V8 isn't easy either, swapping the cam from from a Sd1 Vitesse would give a small gain not as much as a good high lift cam but even though its not really something you can see its quite an expensive thing to have done.

My best advice is to ensure its running healthy, a grippy set of road tyres would help as will the right tyre pressures.
Click to expand...


I have driven a D1 V8 and a D2 TD5 and the TD5 is quicker
 
I think i'll need to scrap the undetectable option then.

Is the simplest (cheapest) option a Nitrous kit?

Crail is a standard quarter mile drag strip, so it doesn't have to last forever.

How much weight can you take off the discovery by removing the seats etc.
The D3 weighs about 500Kg more than the D1.

Unfortunately for me it has a heavy duty bumper and winch and heavy duty rear bumper, diff guards etc, etc so I'll be swapping these off anyway.
redir
 
For certain we'll video the race, but won't be until maybe February when we're both back in Scotland.

Best option I have at the moment is the Nitrous, so looking for a cheap kit on fleeBay.

Always wanted to play with Nitrous anyway............:flame2:
 
Then you've got to start thinking about ARP bolts to keep it all together.
Also the fuel pump needs to be up to supplying additional fuel along with the no2
Realsteel qualify this on their nos injection kits.
I did have a complete cheater kit for sale carb pump the lot, but I've now sold the huffaker inlet manifold so it would need a (4 barrel carb) inlet to complete.
I take it you aren't scared off trashing it
 
Last edited:
Hi Cooltide
I'm not too worried if it goes bang during testing/setup.
I can probably get another engine quite quick, but I'd prefer not to!

Is the cheater systems only for larger NO2 setups or can they be used for the smaller sizes.
From what i've read so far up to 100BHP should be ok with no changes to the engine or transmission required especially if I can get a progressive controller?

I'm thinking 50BHP from the starting line and then another 100BHP going down the strip?
Did you have your setup running on the Landrover?

I did see some turbo's retro fitted to some petrol cars in the PPC magazines. Has anyone turbo'd or twin turbo'd a LandRover V8?
 
Id get yours on a rolling road see if you got the horses you think. Id suggest a good servicing and some premium fuel. Then weight reduction. A clutch can make all the difference in a short drag like this too.
 
The cheater plate sandwiches between the 4 barrel carb and manifold. It is not progressive. It sprays no2 and additional fuel into the intake, hence you need a good fuel pump. Its easy to change jets. Currently jetted for 70 and I have jets for 120. It was running 120 on a 3.5 with solid race cam, but I'd be scared to that to a 3.9. It was in a bmw. I still have the short engine but I'm using the heads elsewhere
 
Run 100 shot and you will need a fresh engine.

The RV8 engine needs extensive mods to run higher power its not that strong out of the box.

Progressive controller I'd be more inclined to start at 15/25 jets then look in to 50s. If your RV8 is healthy its should be around 180hp throwing and extra 100 at that will make a mess with out supporting mods.

Personally I'd forget the idea of tunning and just remove anything of extra weight fit road tyres and hope you don't blow the transfer or diffs.
 
Yeah, High lift cam, decent tyres, less weight, and a damn good service, especially of all the transmission parts and running gear.

Frankly I think it's a pointless exercise, but kudos for having the balls to try it .. ;)

Once you've done the drag test, get him to follow you off-road, somewhere a bit gnarly and scratchy .. ;)
 
Ok the race is definitely on w/e of 7th & 8th March.

Not that it's important but the last time we had a bit of a challenge my V8 got stuck:mad:

Stuck.jpg


Tried to follow smug mate too closely and swamped my engine.

So the abuse is quite bad just now.

I've got 4 weeks at home before Xmas and looks like i'll need all my time.
Here is the before picture. Hopefully i'll get an after one not too far in the future:
Before.jpg
 
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