Disco Gearbox / Clutch Problem.. I think?

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jwaldron

jwaldron

New Member
Posts
284
Location
YNYS MON (North Wales)
Just got a Disco 93 des manual. Been driving around happily then one day last week - I jumped in and the clutch wouldn't let me engage a gear.

Having done some research I decided to change the salve cylinder - However. Whilst I did this ( or should I say a call out mechanic )... he noted that a pushrod ( the bit that sits inside the cynder housing ) - that links to the end of the cylinder pushrod was flapping about and could be turned around.

In order to simply get to a point where by we kinda know its somthing and not just a landrover thing.. he fitted the slave and bled the system. Nothing. The pedal is completly and totaly usless and is as light a a feather... but does not depress all the way down.

My question is this:

Is the folk in the gearbox gone, release bearing or has the cylinder simply been installed incorectly?

Apparently - this rod could be push back, and no clutch action.. is this normal.

Would really like some advice.. dunno if its worth dropping the box or just cutting my losses. Am in north wales.. and all specialists seam to be miles away.

jim
 
ask Yella Disco. he lives near you. hes a disco king.

or queen? im never too sure bout him.
 
The fork gave way in my 96 Disco 300Tdi and what happened was the pedal went solid -it would only go down a little and then was rock solid .
So judging by your account it could be a slave cylinder problem but while changing it you have to be careful not to dislodge the pin that goes from the slave to the fork .
However you say the pedal goes to the floor and has no effect so it could be that its not bleeding properly - is the bleed nipple for example on top ?
If you loosened the connection at the slave and pumped the pedal you would at least know that the master is doing its job if fluid was forced out.
You could also leave the bleed nipple open and see if gravity would get fluid moving through the system.
One thing that I came across a few times in older cars was the seals not returning in the MC when you release the pedal so although you are pumping the pedal its having no effect. A few good taps on the side of the MC can sometimes free sticking seals .
 
The push rod came out with the salve cylinder... Don't know the name of the bit it fixes back into in the ball housing. The situation I had was that the bid that the push rod pushes back into was flapping about in the housing. The pushrod was pushed into the new slave, then inserted into the housing ( hopfully ) contecting as it should to this 'bit' ( name unknown ) inside the housing.

The odd thing about all this - is although the clutch operation was poor before I started.. the pedal is looser now thatn ever before. The pedal will go down with no pressure now, untill it gets about 1/4 inc or less from its full movement... then sold.

Is the pushrod suposed to come off with the slave cylinder? if not - how do you connect it back to this 'bit' properly to get it working again? and is there a test to see if the clutch fork has snapped without taking the box off? Also - there was a black plastic fitting that I don't think was re-fitted.. is this bit important.. it sat around the pushrod - loose.

jim ( on msn as [email protected] ) - need help.. can't really afford to drop the box - Hope this is just me beeing stupid!
 
The black plastic fitting is, at a guess, the bit that stops the push rod from falling out of its locating dimple in the clutch operating arm.

The arm should move back and forth freely.

If you've put the clutch push rod into the slave cylinder then bolted the slave cylinder to the bell housing and the push rod has engaged into its dimple then your a 'kin lucky b'stard.

I reckon the pushrod has missed the arm and is making contact with part of the bell housing when the pedal locks up.

Fitting the pushrod and clip on without removing the gearbox etc is possible but needs a lot of patience.

Hope this helps 'till someone more experieced with discos comes along.
 
thanks grunt.. that actually sounds quite lickly from what you have described, and what I made of what went on.

The control arm inside the ball housing was the previous unknamed bit in my post... wasn't sure what it was.

The pushrod came out with the cylinder and the plastic bit withit... all was done - was slap the rod into the new cylinder, bolt on to the housing and hope for the best.. Looks like I'll have to have a go myself with this.. How the hell do you know if its made the correct contection? - does it feel any differant?

Its going to be a pain in th arse to bleed the system every time just to find out that you need to do it again... surely you dont have to drop the box to change the slave normaly.. and rods come off frequently - surely there is a way to get it back on ( or in ) to the control arm in situe? or am I just unlucky Again!..

Jim
 
Dunno if anyone has come up with an easy way of doing it. I broke two of the plastic clip thingies before making one out of an old spring. The only way of knowing if its fitted properly is that you can feel the rod moveing the arm and it just feels right.
 
These are from my 90 clutch which is possibly similar to yours. The pliers are on there, I stuck the plastic clip to the rod with super glue and held all the parts to the pliers with an O ring which came off with the pliers once the spring clip was in its slot.

clutch fork2.JPGclutch fork 3.JPGclutch fork 1.JPG
 
I had the engine out of mine to do the clutch and even then I was afraid that as I was putting the engine back I would knock the rod out of position as the black plastic clip is very easily broken .
It must be next to impossible to fit the rod and clip through the space for the slave cylinder - but if you can't then box or engine out is the only option.
 
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