Disco EDC to mechanical fuel injection pump

Here is my report to the recent changes I've made to my 97' 300tdi auto with EDC fuel injection pump to the standard 300tdi with mechanical fuel pump.

Items required:

- 300tdi fuel injection pump (200tdi's dont work), with or without EGR potentiometer
- standard 300tdi fuel injectors x 4
- fuel injection pipes from pump to injectors
- kick down cable bracket from standard 300tdi auto
- length of wire with a space connector at one end

Procedures:

- remove EDC fuel injection pipes
- remove EDC fuel injectors
- remove EDC electronic fuel injection pump (A)
- unplug ECU (B)
- attach standard mechanical fuel injection pump (C)
- attach standard fuel injectors
- attach standard fuel injection pipes
- bleed fuel from system (D)
- attach throttle cable & kick down cable
- done and start commissioning with engine running

(A) :

- remove fan
- remove fan cowl
- remove crank pulley
- remove timing cover
- set crank & cam to TDC
- loose 8mm allen bolt to timing belt tensioner
- remove timing belt
- remove sprocket on injection pump
- unplug electrical connectors, 2 pieces
- remove 3 x 13mm nut at front of pump attaching to timing case
- remove 2 x bolts securing injection pump to engine block, 10mm bolt, 13mm nut
- lift out injection pump

(B) :

- remove plastic securing plug on driver's side kick panel
- lift out kick panel
- ECY is just above all the relays behind kick panel
- use a short spade screw driver, prise out/loosen ECU socket securing pin, then pull down the securing pin with finger, you can then remove the 55 pin plug to ECU

(C) :

- attach mechanical fuel injection pump to timing case
- attach 3 x 13mm nut securing to timing case
- attach 2 nuts and bolts securing to engine block, 13mm nut, 10mm bolt
- loosely attach timing belt sprocket onto injection pump
- use a 22mm socket, turn the injection pump sprocket until a 9mm drill bit can be slotted into the TDC locking hole on injection pump
- attach timing belt. To tighten timing belt, first use an breaker bar with a 6 inch long 1/2 inch size extension. There's a slot on timing belt tensional plate where the extension can be slotted in and give leverage for tightening tensioner. After timing belt tensioner is tighten, tighten the 3 10mm nut on injection pump sprocket.
- check that timing belt is spot on TDC. To check on that, woodruff key on crank shaft should be vertically straight pointing to top. There should be a mark on cam sprocket, that should be pointing at 7 o'clock. Use mirror to check the cam sprocket marking is inline to an 'arrow' on timing case. Lastly, make sure the 9mm drill bit is still slotted into the injection pump locking hole
- attach timing cover
- remove 3 x 10mm bolt on timing cover for the injection pump inspection cover, then remove the cover for injection pump adjustment & commissioning (E)
- attach crank pulley
- attach fan belt
- attach fen and cowl

(D) :

- loosen 10mm bolt on top of fuel filter housing
- toggle the lever on fuel lift pump. If no pressure is felt, turn the crank shaft till pressure is felt
- once fuel starts flowing out from the bleed screw without air bubbles, tighten bleed screw

(E) Commissioning & adjustment on injection pump :

- with the timing belt on, loosen the 3 x 10mm bolt on injection pump sprocket. Then use 22mm socket, turn the center plate on the sprocket to the left, put a mark on the center plate and sprocket, then turn the center plate to the right and mark on sprocket. Then turn the center plate back to the middle. Tighten the 3 x 10mm bolt.
- start the engine, listen to the engine running. If it runs a little rough, repeat the above procedures, and move the center plate on injection pump sprocket either left (advance) or right (retard) to get the engine running smoothly. Do each adjustment at 1mm each time.
- adjust throttle cable tightness as well as kick down cable tightness. Throttle cable should have about 1mm free play when you move it left to right. Kick down cable should be all the way in the cable sleeve before throttle is depressed. Adjust idling screw. Standard idling for auto is about 750 + 30 rpm
- once you are satisfied with the engine running, attach the injection pump inspection cover

Forgotten to add:

- use the length of wire with spade connector at end, find a suitable 12v source (either through a switch, or through ignition, so that engine will shut off once ignition is turned off) and connects it to the fuel stop solenoid.

I heard that the edc pump was the same as the 300tdi, just that it had motorised throttle control.
Sounds like from this post that the pump and injectors are totally diffo.

dr pepper said:

I heard that the edc pump was the same as the 300tdi, just that it had motorised throttle control.
Sounds like from this post that the pump and injectors are totally diffo.

Click to expand...

yes...the pump and injectors are different.

pump.....electronic vs mechanical
injectors........higher secondary pressure @280 atmosphere (EDC) vs lower secondary pressure @300 atmosphere

tried running the EDC injectors with the mechanical pump, and result was not as good, so got myself a set of injectors from standard 300tdi......so am assuming the EDC equipped disco should not be running with the standard injectors

kingsonlim said:

Forgotten to add:

- use the length of wire with spade connector at end, find a suitable 12v source (either through a switch, or through ignition, so that engine will shut off once ignition is turned off) and connects it to the fuel stop solenoid.

Click to expand...

sorry to come in on the side i have a disco with a 300tdi auto that i think has a problem with the stop solenoid i have fuel to the pump but nothing in the injector
pipes can you help please

Step 1) loosen fuel supply line to injection pump, then turn the ignition to "on". If no fuel seepage, check fuel filter & sedimenter. If fuel seepage appears, go to step 2.

Step 2) loosen one of the injector's pipe from injection pump to injector, and with ignition switch to "on", use multimeter to check if there's power supply to the fuel stop solenoid. If there's power and no fuel seepage from the loosen nut.......you need new fuel stop solenoid

step 3) if there's no power to the fuel stop solenoid, try adding a new 12+ feed direct to the fuel stop solenoid from the battery. If no fuel seepage.......you need new fuel stop solenoid, as well as checking why there's no 12+ feed to fuel stop solenoid

kingsonlim said:

Step 1) loosen fuel supply line to injection pump, then turn the ignition to "on". If no fuel seepage, check fuel filter & sedimenter. If fuel seepage appears, go to step 2.

Step 2) loosen one of the injector's pipe from injection pump to injector, and with ignition switch to "on", use multimeter to check if there's power supply to the fuel stop solenoid. If there's power and no fuel seepage from the loosen nut.......you need new fuel stop solenoid

step 3) if there's no power to the fuel stop solenoid, try adding a new 12+ feed direct to the fuel stop solenoid from the battery. If no fuel seepage.......you need new fuel stop solenoid, as well as checking why there's no 12+ feed to fuel stop solenoid

Click to expand...

no power to the stop solenoid i think it is the immobliser (i will have to get the key code tomorrow) i think i might need a new stop solenoid but will try the code first does it just unscrew thanks

Hi, Kingy!

Looks like an interesting undertaking. I'd have to get my Landy man to do this for me, I suspect. He works from home, but lives and breathes (mostly) pre-98 Landys.

Can anyone help with part numbers for the shopping list? I know it won't be cheap, but if it means I can hang onto my Disco for a few more years, then it will be worth it whilst I save up for the next (4th) Landy.

It looks like the fuel injection pump could be as much as 649.00 GBP + VAT (following a quick Google). If anyone could help with actual part numbers, I could have a go at this instead of guessing. If anyone has any ideas about keeping the prices down, i'd appreciate it.

If anyone can help with part numbers, i'd appreciate it. Here's Kingy's list again:

===

- 300tdi fuel injection pump (200tdi's dont work), with or without EGR potentiometer
- standard 300tdi fuel injectors x 4
- fuel injection pipes from pump to injectors
- kick down cable bracket from standard 300tdi auto
- length of wire with a space connector at one end

===

Many many thanks,

Chris.

hi
this looks interesting

my problem apart from liking landrovers is that my 1998 300tdi auto will not run.

it starts, idles, but as soon as any effort is needed it misfires blows white smoke and dies

i've changed injectors, filter, lift pump, timing belt, cleaned sediment collector, purged lines put on second hand pump all to no avail

i've checked the connector to injector 4 and thats ok and it has been bench tested and was working

dont suppose you have any ideas or is this the way i have to go

cheers

Hi
i had to change the ecu in the end and that sorted it out

is changing the ecu a dealer job due to immobiliser or is there an easier and by that i mean cheaper way
cheers

Thanks to everyone for the information on this post. I've just converted my '97 EDC auto to mechanical pump with splendid results. (I had a donor vehicle so costs were minimal) I do have one question though, I did read somewhere that the air con was controlled by the eco so would need an earth replacing? I'd be very grateful for any info on this as it's very hot! (The air con was working fine with the EDC in place)

Thanks in advance.