Disco 2 ACE faults

Hi all, well after several months of trouble free Disco2 driving I have had the amber ACE light come on (it did flash red once but that went off when I stopped and restarted the truck. (Typical that have my MOT next month!!) It always goes out when I stop and restart the car but them comes on randomly. I have fluid in the reservoir but thats not actually circulating when the truck is running. There appears to be a leak around around the filter in the valve block on the chassis. I have a Nanocom and the following faults were displayed and live data were observed. Any starting point would be appreciated. Thanks in advance as always.

Hi, nanocom is not the best when it comes to ACE fault codes but the gist is this:

SullyUk said:

I have fluid in the reservoir but thats not actually circulating when the truck is running.

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If no serious activity in the tank with engine running then the pump is gone or there is an airlock... protect somehow the adjacent area from oil spillage and undo partially the pump's outlet banjo with engine running ... if oil doesnt come out with good pressure you have to replace the pump, if the pressure will start rising tighten it back and watch the tank, maybe you are lucky

sierrafery said:

Hi, nanocom is not the best when it comes to ACE fault codes but the gist is this:

If no serious activity in the tank with engine running then the pump is gone or there is an airlock... protect somehow the adjacent area from oil spillage and undo partially the pump's outlet banjo with engine running ... if oil doesnt come out with good pressure you have to replace the pump, if the pressure will start rising tighten it back and watch the tank, maybe you are lucky

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Thanks for the swift reply its always appreciated sierrafery. Will try that and see what happens. If the pumps gone, there doesn't seem to be any available from any of the regular retailers here in the UK and there are only 4 on eBay and they all look well used sadly.

No problem how they look as long as they work well... many of them were removed just cos there was a pipe leak and the owner decided to convert the system and most of those owners are not caring much about theyr's vehicles... as an alternative try this guy, he's not the cheapest but very serious

Discovery 2 Parts
Quality Used and New Parts & Accessories

Call Paul on
01206 211623 - office
07828 278465
07760 955966
07840 428888

Thank's sierrafery.

sierrafery said:

Hi, nanocom is not the best when it comes to ACE fault codes but the gist is this:

If no serious activity in the tank with engine running then the pump is gone or there is an airlock... protect somehow the adjacent area from oil spillage and undo partially the pump's outlet banjo with engine running ... if oil doesnt come out with good pressure you have to replace the pump, if the pressure will start rising tighten it back and watch the tank, maybe you are lucky

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I partially undid the banjo with the engine running and it sprayed out like an arterial bleed so there was plenty of pressure and the tank dropped from max to below min so I shut off the engine immediately. So does that mean the pump is good? There still isn't any activity in the tank though. So what should I look at next? Blocked filter or transducer possibly?

Seems that it's hydraulically blocked somewhere if not enough flow on the return ... the transducer has nothing to do with that.... the filter would be a good start, also you can check the PCV and DCVs with nanocom outputs, they should click on test.... if the PCV is stuck it can block the flow

sierrafery said:

Seems that it's hydraulically blocked somewhere if not enough flow on the return ... the transducer has nothing to do with that.... the filter would be a good start, also you can check the PCV and DCVs with nanocom outputs, they should click on test.... if the PCV is stuck it can block the flow

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Will give that a go in the morning and let you know. Thanks again.

sierrafery said:

Seems that it's hydraulically blocked somewhere if not enough flow on the return ... the transducer has nothing to do with that.... the filter would be a good start, also you can check the PCV and DCVs with nanocom outputs, they should click on test.... if the PCV is stuck it can block the flow

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I hooked up the nanocom and went into the ACE section for outputs but am struggling to see the run test check option for the PCV and DCV any help would be appreciated so I can see if they are clicking or not.

It's in "outputs" but seems that the PCV is not covered only the DCVs and these are not so relevant now... if the warning lamp is on remove the ACE relay and bridge the contact's cavities(the two larger ones) in the fusebox then read again live inputs and post those

sierrafery said:

It's in "outputs" but seems that the PCV is not covered only the DCVs and these are not so relevant now... if the warning lamp is on remove the ACE relay and bridge the contact's cavities(the two larger ones) in the fusebox then read again live inputs and post those

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Ah ok, that would explain it then. Now as electrics are not my strong point may I ask if you have a pic of how to bridge the contacts cavities please?

Remove relay R14 and insert a paperclip or piece of wire across the two larger parallel cavities in the fusebox, i can't explain better

sierrafery said:

Remove relay R14 and insert a paperclip or piece of wire across the two larger parallel cavities in the fusebox, i can't explain better

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Thats great thank you. I will do that tomorrow.

sierrafery said:

Remove relay R14 and insert a paperclip or piece of wire across the two larger parallel cavities in the fusebox, i can't explain better

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Just wanted to check that after I have done that, do I start the engine or do I get the reading with the ignition just switched on?

With engine runnning ... with bridged relay the ECU is completey active like when the relay is closed so the readings are more accurate while when the warning is on the relay is open and the ECU in a "passive" default... though as long as there is no serious activity in the tank i doubt that the problem is electrical, a good pump has a 7l/min flow rate at idle so that should be very visible in the tank if the fluid circuit is not clogged

sierrafery said:

With engine runnning ... with bridged relay the ECU is completey active like when the relay is closed so the readings are more accurate while when the warning is on the relay is open and the ECU in a "passive" default... though as long as there is no serious activity in the tank i doubt that the problem is electrical, a good pump has a 7l/min flow rate at idle so that should be very visible in the tank if the fluid circuit is not clogged

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Cleaned out the filter and ran through the bleeding via nanocom and behold I have good activity in the tank again!!! so as you mentioned seems like it was possibly hydro locked. I always appreciate the time you take to help. Thank you again.

SullyUk said:

Cleaned out the filter and ran through the bleeding via nanocom and behold I have good activity in the tank again!!! so as you mentioned seems like it was possibly hydro locked. I always appreciate the time you take to help. Thank you again.

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Welocme and well done. I'm glad it was a simple fix