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cowasaki

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,517
Location
North West England
Well I asked for advice from the shop and bought 5 cans of the under chassis black paint, 4 cans of the wax and 4 cans of the stone chip....

I've used 2.5 cans of the wax and 1.75 cans of the chassis paint. Looking at the coverage I'll probably do all four wheel arches with 2 cans of the stone chip paint. The wax should be about right because I still need to do the inside of the doors but I'm going to have 3 cans of the paint and 2 stone chip left......

Have I put it on too thin or did the company quote the coverage rather pessimistically?
 
I can't comment about the stone chip, but I used 2 cans of 3125 to spray the cavity inside my galv chassis, and that was a good thick layer too
 
just got a can of each today of the cav (3125) and the underbody stuff (4941) to see how far they go.

not sure what you bought tbh. is the chassis paint 4941?

it says you should spray the cav on the chassis lightly first as the 4941 doesn't have anti corrosion inhibitors, it's just a sealer.
 
Well as imagined only needed 2 cans of the stone chip to do all four arches so I'm left with 2 extra cans of stone chip and 3 of chassis paint :)

The cans work out cheaper but you only need a low pressure to spray it. I had the compressor set at 60. I was using the sealey gun which costs £60 but you can get a kit that ha a gun which attaches directly to the can. You'll need white spirit for cleaning up but otherwise a decent simple job. Worth steam cleaning it a few days before and not using it till you do the job.

First go over everything showing rust with the spray cans of wax then leave till the next day then do the under body paint then next day the wheel arches.
 
I used ml3125 and managed to squeeze 7 litres into my chassis and bulkhead and doors etc. this was over the course of 2 sessions in a weekend
 
me
blah blah.. I'm confused as to the difference between 3125, HS3125 and ML3125.

bloke
3125 in aerosol (very Thin)
3125HS in litres (very thick) needs warming
ML3125(comes as ML in
litres( very thin)

he mainly wan't to recommend by application . i still haven't wrangled out what the exact difference between 3125 and
ml is. asked again.

he also provided a link to a defender vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDl6CDjW0KI

in aerosol they seem to have 3125 wax and something else just called ml

i'm thinking the ml is just renamed ml3125.
 
i used the cans today on fresh galv. seemed to go on nice.

i've also just ordered some bilthamber stuff, deox gel, s50 and ub to compare. least i know what the s50 in aerosol :)
 
they have way too many products that are too similar to each other.

Normal 3125 looks good for easy to get to surfaces and better salt spray protection, as it's thick. It'll lay more on the surface.

The HS version HS (high solid) stuff is thicker than normal (warm the cans up) so as above but better protection as it goes on thicker (you could spray more 3125 though)

ML (not 3125ML) is very thin, so it can creep right into rust.. (it might also have corrosion inhibitors?)
So it's good for cavities and places you can't reach. Also good for rusty metal, to allow it to creep in, before sticking thicker stuff over.

3125 ML looks to be a mix of normal 3125 and ML. So it's slightly thicker than normal ML. Same properties.

but then you have 4941 which is meant for exposed chassis and panels.. and touted as having excellent creep.

so who the hell knows!
 
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I know....

I used their distributor on ebay and made my own "package".....

They had this offer 12 x DINITROL 4941 UNDERBODY CHASSIS RUST PROOFING BLACK WAX 1 LITRE | eBay of 12 lots of "DINITROL 4941 UNDERBODY CHASSIS RUST PROOFING BLACK WAX 1 LITRE" for £125.40

I sent them a message saying can I swap 4 of the 4941s for 447s and 3 of the 4941s for 4 ML aerosol penetrator cavity wax.

So I got 4 x 447 (cans), 4 x ML (aerosols) & 5 x 4941 (cans).

I've still got 1.5 x ML, 2 x 447 and 3 x 4941 left so it was a bit too much.

Using the above I'm sure they could put together a package for the right money.


It really does look good underneath now and quieter going over loose stuff.
 
So confusing, too many products doing the same thing. Using your guide i think i will start with the thinner one because i have an old flaky chassis then top coat it with the thicker stuff. Ive already started painting the outside of the chassis with red oxide and rustoleum so i think thats enough.
 
I was amazed how good a job the black wax did on the rust on the chassis and axles. I used kurust first on the worst parts after scraping any loose stuff. Looks well tidy now. I did use the sealey £60 pot with the attached applicator lance as my friend already had it
 
i'm wondering if it's even worthwhile painting it.. since the thin stuff is meant to creep into the rust.

also my phosphoric acid, zinc182 and then black enamel i did 3-4 years ago is showing lots of rust coming through. so that didn't work very well :/
 
To be honest it did make a big improvement

sorry, i meant worthwhile 'painting' as in primer + top coat, then the dinitrol :)

deffo worthwhile doing something to slow any rust down.

the galved bits i sprayed when putting the new front suspension on looks good!

and then i noticed my galved sumobar looks a bit crusty for only having it a year or two :/
 
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