Dinitrol - How important is the drying out stage?

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S

SMG

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Hi there
I want to treat my 2002 TD5 110 CSW chassis to a full DIY dinitrol treatment. Have been reading up on it, and seems recommendation is to jet wash chassis... then steam clean it.... then let it dry out for 4-5 days... then do the treatment.

Am wondering how essential is the drying out period.. I don't have access to a sheltered garage/workshop, and I doubt it would dry out much on my driveway in autumn. I could wait until late spring, but my current rust proofing is very tatty now.

What do you think, and is there a fast way to dry it (maybe drive at 60mph for an hour).
Cheers
SMG
 
I would say wait until the summer, trap any water at your peril.
There might be a nice sunny day over the next few weeks, but my gut feeling is it will wont be properly dry until its had a few days or weeks of heat.
 
It will dry underneath on you’re driveway, but you won’t be able to drive it for a week though, if a dry day is forecast, remove you’re front bumper to allow the air to flow through the chassis
 
Hi Tottot, by cleaning do you mean just quick jet wash? I found abit of a flaky area underneath some semi intact coating behind the front passenger suspension spring - bit scared to poke too hard ;)
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Bruhl-Bd12...-Motorcycle-Dryer-With-RCD-Cut-out/1839591711

Or you could buy a motorcycle type dryer to accelerate drying period. They're very effective as unlike heat guns they circulate large air volume. Blast warm/hot air into each chassis access/drain point for a good amount of time until very hot. This will get chassis totally dry, then treat with Dinitrol, Bilt Hamber chassis treatments
 
The problem with old oil and diesel is that they're both hygroscopic. Dinitrol and Bilt Hamber [and other] products have been specifically designed to 1. have superb seep rate, ala they find every last nook and cranny, 2. they're non-hygroscopic, 3. they stick like s**t to a fur ball [!], and 4. once dried they don't allow masses of wet/damp crud, mud, clay, stones and any other crap we may decide to throw at and into our chassis/box sections to stick to the surface [unlike like oil and diesel].

I've used both Dinitrol and Bilt Hamber products for many years. They're a little more expensive than some others, but they work :)
 
Engine oil and diesel also works. My 1990 90 is a farm truck lives outside all year near the sea. Still all original chassis and bulkhead that has only had a few minor patch's in exposed bits like ends of bulkhead out riggers.
 
My local independent also said to spray engine oil diluted with diesel twice a year, instead of doing dinitrol, because used oil is free. I wasn't so keen on used oil... partly because it's nasty stuff (but I guess I could use fresh oil instead), partly because of the frequency of renewal.

How often do you reapply Tottot? Also are you spraying just the internals... or are you spraying externals as well?
 
SMG said:
My local independent also said to spray engine oil diluted with diesel twice a year, instead of doing dinitrol, because used oil is free. I wasn't so keen on used oil... partly because it's nasty stuff (but I guess I could use fresh oil instead), partly because of the frequency of renewal.

How often do you reapply Tottot? Also are you spraying just the internals... or are you spraying externals as well?
Click to expand...

Used engine oil is fine, provided it is good oil. You probably don't want to use stuff that has been in an engine for years, way past the interval, because it will contain a lot of water.

However, in the case of a cherished vehicle, I would be tempted to spend the money on the Dinitrol, it is probably even better, and should be a one off application, or at least only every ten years, if used inside a chassis.
Personally, I paint the outside of the chassis, but the correct grade of Dinitrol or Bildt Hamber should be good too.
 
SMG, I give the landy a thorough clean before MOT and re oiling at the end of summer just after MOT. Have used both used oil and fresh inside and out of chassis. Bulkhead gets new oil in all places I can get to. I go with Turboman with not using oil that has sat about for ages.
There is a thought that one should not use oil from petrol engines due to higher acid levels. However as I have not had a petrol vehicle for 20 years can not say one way or another.
Also once oiled up for the winter I do not wash underneath [ may wash and respray an area if say a bush needed doing ] again until spring calving is done and Landy is no longer getting plastered with mud and sh1t.:D
 
Agreed with these lads the oil is the best way, dinatrol looks good but how long will it last, you can mix a little black wax oil with the mix to have the black finish, wax oil alone doesn’t creep well this time of year as it cold, and guess the dinatrol will be just the same
 
I wouldn't worry about acid content, I have worked on plenty of petrol vehicles that have had oil leaks and they have not disintegrated due to acid eating them away. I also wouldn't worry about moisture in the oil, I have never , ever seen a piece of metal covered in oil start to rust, ever.
 
Oil will creep, In fact it creeps exceptionally well, if you have ever put an oil covered funnel or canister upside-down in a drip trey for any length of time you will know what I mean. Diesel is a great penetrating oil, if it can creep into the threads of tight bolts it can creep into the rust inside a chassis. Keep in mind the coating doesnt have to be 5mm thick, in fact inside a chassis it doesnt have to be anything more than a smear.
 
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