Defender rust proofing

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lightning

lightning

Well-Known Member
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Anybody know a company in Cheshire who can "Waxoyl" (or similar product) my Defender 110 TD5?
Chassis Clean in Knutsford had good reviews but they seem to have disappeared, the website has gone.
Rust Master also the same....website not operational.
And Nene Overland have a Waxoyl treatment link ("15 UK centres") but when you go to the link it says "file not found".

l want it cleaned, rust treated, then sprayed with wax etc.

Does anybody know of somewhere near to Stockport, Cheshire who are still in business?
 
Last edited:
Just for a giggle google (Before and After) with its most amusing monkey Chris.

Buy compressor (230quid), buy wax gun (70 quid), buy wax (your choice), wax car, job done for less than other people charge just for the waxing and you still own all the kit afterwards.
 
I'd happily do the job myself but l think you really need to get the vehicle up on a ramp.
I know it can be done without (l've done it in the past) but without a ramp it's a horrible task.
 
Done mine many times on the floor, Im not sure why people think its a horrible job, I find it quick and simple, got to do three of them this year, cant wait:(
 
Not 100% sure now having looked under my friend's 90 which was "Waxoyled" by a previous owner.
The wax based coating seems to sit on top of the rust and not really stop it. In some areas the coating has flaked off, generally at edges, leaving exposed rust and metal. In other areas the coating has lifted due to loose rust underneath.
In some ways this is surely worse than the wax coating not being there.
The solution would possibly be to use a coating which does not fully dry.
I sprayed the chassis of my friend's static caravan about five years ago using Waxoyl mixed with about 10% gearbox oil.
The coating is still sticky but has come off on exposed areas.
However on large parts of the chassis it is still present and there is no lifting at edges or rust flaking under the coating.
 
Waxoyl is one of them products that used to be used by everyone as thats all that was available, now its moved on an I think waxoyl has fallen a long way behind, Ankor Wax is pretty good and is what I use, lots of people reckon dinitrol and bilt hamber are even better and they come in large aerosols so no expensive tools needed.

I found with the waxoyl anywhere road spray could get at it the wax got washed off pdq the ankor wax is still there and can be squished with my finger.
My fil used it annually and his car still rusted away!
 
Waxoyl can peel and crack then actually trap crap against the chassis.
Dinitrol better, Bilt Hamber, Buzzweld even better, Corroless probably best.
 
lynall said:
Waxoyl is one of them products that used to be used by everyone as thats all that was available, now its moved on an I think waxoyl has fallen a long way behind, Ankor Wax is pretty good and is what I use, lots of people reckon dinitrol and bilt hamber are even better and they come in large aerosols so no expensive tools needed.

I found with the waxoyl anywhere road spray could get at it the wax got washed off pdq the ankor wax is still there and can be squished with my finger.
My fil used it annually and his car still rusted away!
Click to expand...

I used to use waxoyl exclusively, but agree with the above - times has moved on and waxoyl appears to have stood still. I now use the Bilt Hamber range - its only slightly dearer, but infinitely superior in my experience.

Which, at the moment, I freely admit is time limited - but it does look like its stuck better to surfaces, and appears to penetrate seams better too - in fact it looks like it "does what it says on the tin"
 
I have resorted now to periodically getting under my Landy with a tin of spray grease and emptying it into the chassis, seams, crossmember, and anywhere that looks like it needs it.
The grease l use is "anti fling" and designed not to fly off chains etc. The coating is sticky and is not washed off by rain.
 
If you're going to use spray on stuff, why not get some spray cans of Dinitrol and spray that instead? Yes, I'm sure grease is better than nothing, but if you're doing the job anyway you might as well use tome dedicated rust inhibitor.
 
I have never tried Dinitrol. Does tbe coating stay sticky (and not eventually go hard and flake off)
I'd be happy to give it a go, but most of these coatings seem to just sit on top of the rust.
 
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